was wondering what is the proper way to adjusta clutch step by step seems people all do it different than in the manual. Thanks

 

From another forum...

"Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.

3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.

4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.

You should be good to go .

Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.

Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler"

 

In reality, the BEST WAY to adjust your clutch is to follow the procedures outlined in the factory service manual "EXACTLY".

If it is not right after that, then you have clutch problems,beyond simple adjustment,you need to figure out and address.

A fact.

 

From another forum...
"Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

Well, I cannot say I agree with that method if we are talking about an ironhead clutch here.
And then the next questions I will have to ask are these:
Is the bike an ironhead?
Is it 1970 or older?
1971 or newer?
The answers to these questions will then determine what the procedure is going to be.....pg

 

Ok we are talking about a Irionhead clutch and it is on a 68 xlch

 

from my old clymer manual...70 and earlier sportster

loosen clutch release rod locknut

turn clutch release rod adjuting screw counter clockwise

check that clutch release work inside trans sprocket cover seats against stop when clutch hand lever is fully extended. If lever does not seat fully, clutch cable is probably binding in its housing

turn cable adjuster at hand lever so that clutch release worm does not require return against its stop. This adjustment will cause hand lever to trmain fully extended.

turn clutch release rod adjusting screw inward until clutch hand lever moves 1/8 of it travel before clutch starts to release. This condition may be determined by a slight increase in presssure on clutch hand lever as it is moved to its released position

tighten clutch release rod adjusting screw locknut.

 

Here are the instructions from the Harley Factory Service Manual...........pg



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How can anyone expect to work on any motorcycle without having a service manual?

Every new car or bike I get, the next thing I do is buy the manual for it.

Saves lots of time, aggravation & money.