I bought this 1976 XLH as a project bike a couple weeks ago. The tear-down was going about as expected until I removed the primary cover. 4 out of 11 case half bolt locations are broken or badly cracked........NOW WHAT? I rode the bike for about an hour before I started my tear-down, it ran real strong, and didn't leak any oil from the cracked locations.

I would really appreciate some advice on what options I have.



[IMG]local://upfiles/33584/50F5C90872754C0089044EF9C0186CD1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/33584/14389D72B4C3426C943CA415A8F9EEBD.jpg[/IMG]

 

It would be some work but you could find an EXPERIENCED tig welder to take care of the cracks and fill the holes, re-drill and tap them and be on the road. You don't want pieces breaking off in there and floating around. It looks like the broken spots will be easy enough to get to. I wouldn't try JB Weld or liquid metal because of the vibration and all the oil in there.

 

Like Mojo said, get yourself and the machine over to a good Tig welder. Welding it (and retapping if necessary) is the only choice you have. Some dumb nuts tightened the cover with an impact wrench most likely, and that is what cracked the cover in quite a few places.
If you do not get it welded soon the pieces of cast aluminum will fall off into the primary. The biggest challenge to welding up the aluminum will be getting it clean and absolutely free of any oil. Well, let the welder take care of that. He is the best judge of what it is going to take to get 'er done...........pg

 

Thanks for the advice.
I guess I'll get to splitting the cases and getting it ready for the weld shop. (This isn'ta repairthat can be done with just the primary components removed, but the rest of the motor assembled...is it?)
Could just over-torque on those bolts crack them like that? I can see stripping them out... but those holes are Dicked-UP!I noticedthat something impacted the shift lever and bent the rod & tube assembly that transfers L/H shift to R/H linkage. I would guess that the impact also "nailed" the primary case and cracked my bolt holes. ..Just a guess.

Any other tips or stories will be appreciated.

 

It can be repaired with just the primary chain & clutch removed. The rest of the engine can stay together. Like Pinion said the bolts were "impacted" in there or they could have been the wrong size and were forced in. The bent shift rod and tube were most likely the bike falling over.
Good luck and lets see some pics when the weld job is done.

 

You will surely have to emove the clutch, chain and engine sprocket and electric starter to get it welded.
You do not want to have to split the cases to accomplish this. That is a major undertaking that I believe you may not be prepared to handle.
Just ask the welder to guide you on what you need to remove for him to gain access to clean and weld. But, go to him with the attitude that you expect to only remove the primary internals for the welding to be done. If you give him a choice of bending over a bit or having a bench job in front of him to do, which way do you think he is going to recommend? It can be done without taking the entire engine apart.......pg

 

You guys ROCK...Awesome advice.
I am an aircraft mechanic, and feel comfortable doing everything except actually laying down the weld beads. We have a great TIG machine at work, but welding those irreplaceable cast cases are WAY beyond my skill level.
I've got to go hunting for a good welder, but I'll take pictures of the process and post them. I'm also thinking of putting together a site with pictures of this project.
(Straightening out the shifter tube and bar today turned out to be quite aproject in itself.)
Thanks again.

 

If you have access to a certified aircraft welder then you are miles ahead of any of us. This should be an easy job for such a welder. A post on the project will be popular, along with some photos and description of whats what. A lot of guys here wind up with stripped drain plugs and stripped not drain plugs. A stripped not drain (my own term) is a plug that someone removes from a 1974-1976 Sportster thinking it is a plug, but it is rather a plug the factory installed to cover a hole provided for a machining operation, then rather than weld the hole up they jammed a plug in there that was not meant to be removed. Many people do however, thinking it is a crankcase drain because it looks like one. It always strips out before you can get it installed. People fix it using JB Weld most times. I doubt it is fixed myself. The proper way to fix that is weld it up. Everyone is afraid of welding it seems.
Good luck with your project........pg