I got a new headlight with the small 5w daytime running lite, but couldn't figure a good way to wire it. The old light was always on and the switch has only low and hi beam, no off. If it had an off, I'd be able to wire the small light so that it was always on and the big light would be off. Any ideas would be helpful.

Joe

 

what is the bike?

I put in a main light switch...power on/off
and have my high/ low too

 

Looks like you may have a generic 2 position replacement ignition switch rather than the original 3 position. The thrid position is 'lights'.

What I'm finding in my Clymer wiring diagram for my '72 XLH is an orange switched ignition wire on the fork terminal board. (position #5) This feeds the white starter, green horn and gray front brake light. I expect to tap onto that for the DRL. I'll use a 16ga orange in keeping with the switched ign color code.

I'll need to drill a hole in my headlight bucket and insulate the DRL wire with a hardware store rubber grommet. Inside, the DRL bulb holder will go black to the headlight black and an insulated bullit connector on the red wire to my new orange feed. No fuse as the bulb element will serve as suffecient ciruit protection.

Well, that's the plan.

 

You can buy a HID conversion kit off of EBay for about $50.

 

It is possibly a not good idea to run an HID on a generator IronHead. The gen puts out only 10 amps. Check the HID specs - i suspect that there would not be enough amps to run the ignition and charge the battery with an HID installed.

 

Mine is a 97 FXDWG. Didn't mean to steal the thread, just thought while you guys were on the subject........

 

When I had my 82 FXRS, the switch was three posistion with a jumper wire for the lights to the middle. I just clipped it and could run with no headlight. That way I could still ride until I could afford to fix the charging system.
Glad my friend had those bright double headlights on the way home at night.

 

The stock ignition key switch on the IronHeads is 3-position - off, ignition, lights. There is a small green wire that connects the ignition and lights positions on the back of the key switch assembly; this ensures that the lights come on at the ignition position.

This is a USA/North America version. I believe the European bikes do not have this wire. I disconnected that wire on mine so the headlight does not come on until the lights position.

I also installed an extra pair of turnsignal fixtures set up for 1157 bulbs. I installed 1157 LEDs, wired so both "filaments" are active for maximum brightness, and wired them from the accessory circuit breaker so they come on at the ignition key stop.

So if i have generator trouble i can turn the key back one click which turns off the headlite [4 amp], but leaves on the two LED bulbs - which together draw less than .1 amp total.

 

i run a HID on a generator ironhead-have for 20 yrs or better-no problem-it be a 100/35 watt bad boy-i said it is bright-same bulb also since getgo-but it be a 59 XLCH-no battery and no worries about burning headlite unless i toggle it on

 

I put a battery in mine because my lights would dim too much at stop lights. I have recently switched to a generated mounted regulator and I'm going to drop the battery again and try without for a while and see how it works.

s