1980 Iron Head Valve Adjustments
#1
02-09-2008, 05:11 PM
1980 Iron Head Valve Adjustments
Hi, I was hoping you all could help me out with some of your person experience with your ironheads. I bought my 1980 sportster about 7 years ago but until I moved to Florida a few months ago I had a local back yard mechanic taking care of the general maintenance. Until now I had never tried to adjust the valves on my own. In the past I would take it to him when it started to act up. I was wondering if anyone could give me some simple instructions on how to do this so I don't have to pay the dealership a ton to get this done. Thanks!
#2
02-09-2008, 05:54 PM
RE: 1980 Iron Head Valve Adjustments
Here's a thumbnail, if it's like my '79 (I'm pretty sure it is):
1. Clean at least the right-hand side of the motor, as you'll be opening the pushrod tubes.
2. If I remember right, I think I have to take my air cleaner off to open the pushrod covers. It can't hurt anyway!
3. Remove the pushrod spring keepers. Thats the section on the top of the tube with a small handle protruding out. I put a big screwdriver in there and twist. If they're tight, they can be a bear to get out.
4. Once the keepers are removed, you should be able to collapse the pushrod covers down a few inches. Then, lift the whole cover back up toward the head, and support them there. I use a piece of wire on each one, hooked under the bottom of the cover, and over the top of the motor.
5. Put the bike in top gear and support the bike so the rear wheel is off the ground, or work on the bike where you have enough room to roll it. As you roll the rear tire, you will notice each pushrod begin to lift in turn. A pushrod is at it's lowest point when the same pushrod on the opposite cylinder begins to rise. Adjust the pushrod at its lowest point.
6. The tappet adjusters and locknuts are at the bottom of the pushrod. Once you see it, you'll see that it's pretty straightforward how they adjust - loosen the locknot, turn the tappet adjuster up or down (usually down) and then re-tighten the locknut. When the pushrod is adjusted correctly, there should be little or no freeplay, but you should be able to spin the pushrod with your fingers. I find that snugging the adjuster up on the pushrod, then turning it down one half turn usually does the trick.
A TAPPY VALVE IS A HAPPY VALVE!
7. Remove the hanging wires and stretch all the pushrod covers to their full length into the rocker covers and crankcase - make sure the o-rings or corks, whichever you have, seats properly and the tube is fully extended and correctly seated; you'll never the spring keepers back in if you don't.
8. Re-install the spring keepers. This can be a pain, again, if they're tight. I put mine in at the top, and then using a long, thin screwdriver, pry against the bottom of the keeper and the mid section of the tube. Then it snaps into place. I would try to avoid prying against the cooling fins on your motor. I'd hate to break one.
1. Clean at least the right-hand side of the motor, as you'll be opening the pushrod tubes.
2. If I remember right, I think I have to take my air cleaner off to open the pushrod covers. It can't hurt anyway!
3. Remove the pushrod spring keepers. Thats the section on the top of the tube with a small handle protruding out. I put a big screwdriver in there and twist. If they're tight, they can be a bear to get out.
4. Once the keepers are removed, you should be able to collapse the pushrod covers down a few inches. Then, lift the whole cover back up toward the head, and support them there. I use a piece of wire on each one, hooked under the bottom of the cover, and over the top of the motor.
5. Put the bike in top gear and support the bike so the rear wheel is off the ground, or work on the bike where you have enough room to roll it. As you roll the rear tire, you will notice each pushrod begin to lift in turn. A pushrod is at it's lowest point when the same pushrod on the opposite cylinder begins to rise. Adjust the pushrod at its lowest point.
6. The tappet adjusters and locknuts are at the bottom of the pushrod. Once you see it, you'll see that it's pretty straightforward how they adjust - loosen the locknot, turn the tappet adjuster up or down (usually down) and then re-tighten the locknut. When the pushrod is adjusted correctly, there should be little or no freeplay, but you should be able to spin the pushrod with your fingers. I find that snugging the adjuster up on the pushrod, then turning it down one half turn usually does the trick.
A TAPPY VALVE IS A HAPPY VALVE!
7. Remove the hanging wires and stretch all the pushrod covers to their full length into the rocker covers and crankcase - make sure the o-rings or corks, whichever you have, seats properly and the tube is fully extended and correctly seated; you'll never the spring keepers back in if you don't.
8. Re-install the spring keepers. This can be a pain, again, if they're tight. I put mine in at the top, and then using a long, thin screwdriver, pry against the bottom of the keeper and the mid section of the tube. Then it snaps into place. I would try to avoid prying against the cooling fins on your motor. I'd hate to break one.
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