Hey guys-

I have one of thelifter bolts, 2nd from front, stripped out, Can I repair this with a Heli-coil on bike, or do I have to tear it down?????

 

I don't think those bolt holes go all the way through the case, so a helicoil should work fine. Just check the hole with something longer than the bolt (like a small screwdriver) and see if it bottoms out.

 

You will have to drill out the hole (make sure you do not drill through the case!) and then thread it for the coil.
Next will be the coil insertion.

All of this requires using a drill, tap, and Helicoil tool to get the job done.
I am thinking you do not have the room to use the tools.
If not, then the adjacent cylinder and head need to come off............pg

 

Heli - Coiled the same one on my 78. I removed the gas tank and used a drill bit extension.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Folks,
I hope I'm not about to bore you to tears, but thread repair is a subject near & dear to my heart. It sounds like someone has already had success with helicoil in the same application, so it may turn out to be the repair of choice in this application (or maybe you'd want to consider a slimsert). Often times folks choose helicoil simply because it's the most popular, & they may not even know other options exist...each with it's own benefits & drawbacks. I have nothing against helicoil...It's just another option. I'd like to share some others. During my 25 years in military maintenance I got a lot of experience with broken bolts & stripped threads. Below are some thread repair kits, and their uses. Hope this helps
-clutch-
Helicoil- A good repair for situations where bossing (or thread wall thickness) considerations call for the thinest repair possible (for the least amount of material removal). The biggest downsides to helicoil are:
[ol][*]They handle the least amount of torque (which is usually what stripped threads in the 1st place) of any type thread repair fasteners I know of.[*]They require the special helicoil tap. This tap should be kept away from standard tap sets. I've seen it happen before where some bozo in the shop taps a hole with a helicoil tap by mistake...then can't figure out why the threads wont work with a bolt/screw.[/ol]
Slimsert- requires slightly more thread wall thickness (bossing) than helicoil, but can handle more torque. The hole is drilled/tapped to the next larger thread size...the slimsert is screwed in, and a tool called the swag tool is used to deform the slimsert out into the threads. Learn more about slimserts here: http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_syste...mp;prod_id=483

Keensert- Requires more thread wall thickness than the slimsert, but is often times stronger than the original threads. A hole is drilled/tapped oversize....the keensert is screwed in, and a special tool is placed over locking tangs that extend out from the keensert...the tool is struck with a hammer which drives the locking tangs down into the tapped threads causing the keensert to positively lock into place. Learn more about keenserts here: http://www.bjg-design.com/designbook...NS-KNS-KNS.pdf

Rosan- Also called a locking ring fastener, the rosan is often used in manufacturing the suspension systems of heavy military tracked vehicles. Track vehicles hulls are often made of aluminum. Aluminum does not take threads well, so rosan fasteners are installed during manufacture. They are also a good choice for extreme duty service when thread wall thickness is not a consideration. The downside is that they require drilling, tapping, and counter boring for the locking ring to seat properly. Learn more about Rosan(Locking Ring) fasteners here: http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_syste...mp;prod_id=480

Finally, there is an outfit called partsmaster. They are on the pricey side, but have their own version of all the fasteners I mentioned above (often with their own names that are close...i.s. slimsert is "thincert" etc.), and also sell some pretty cool inserts that also cut their own threads as you screw them in. Here is their link: http://pass.partsmaster.com/pmcatalog/Also there is an outfit called Lawson Products. Just like parts master they are pricey, and of very high quality. Here is their link: [URL=http://www.lawsonproducts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Home?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001]http://www.lawsonproducts.com/webapp/wcs

 

OK...only one more...promise. This is a self tapping insert that works great for blind holes. It can be installed with a bolt/locknut combination, and is great for close quarter situations. Here is a link, and a picture: http://www.directindustry.com/prod/t...184-39609.html

-clutch-


[IMG]local://upfiles/10668/C67D4ABC9C5E4CF19B970BCA4E3381F1.jpg[/IMG]

 

Clutchglass- Thanks for the info on the hole repair. I went to remove the bolt holding that lifter, so I could install the brace to hold the S&S carb still, and when I turned it out, it felt funny and would not tighten back up, hence the damaged threads. The only thing I am wondering is how far I have to tear it down to get to the hole....Ironheads did not come with adjustable pushrods, did they????

 

Pretty sure it has adjustable pushrods. I know the older models did.

Scooter

 

just adjusted mine on my '77a couple months ago