Howdy all!

I am a new bike owner. I have just received a 77 Sportster (1000cc Ironhead XLCH) and it does not start. Its been modified with the follolwing - Electric start, Rigged rearend, Bobber style seat and it looks like the rake was extended a little but I cat tell for sure.

Im not a great mechanic, I can work on my truck a little (Change the oil, change and gap the plugs, change the trany fluid and flush the radiator) but I've never worker on or owned a bike until now.

I have charged the battery and the headlight comes on and when I try to start it I can hear the solinoid engage and click but the motor does not turn over. I have tried push starting it and I then realized that I was not getign any spark.

We replaced the plugs and coil and still no spark. On the Generator there is an aftermarket regulator that has a red and green light on it but neither of the lights illuminate. I'm thinking that I am not getting any juice to the coil. I have proven this by replacing the coil and connecting the plug wire to the plug while its out of the cylinder and I dont see any spark when I trun on the egnition. (Again the motor is not turning over when I try to use the electric start just that dang clicking.)

How can I locate the problem? I would imagine that this is not an easy answer but I'm trying to get this thing running by Thrusday (My B-Day) and would appreciate any help. I will try just about anything at this point.

 

You have said a lot of things here regarding different things you have tried to start the machine.

I have charged the battery and the headlight comes on and when I try to start it I can hear the solinoid engage and click but the motor does not turn over. I have tried push starting it and I then realized that I was not getign any spark.
How do you know there is no spark when you push it? In fact, let's not worry about spark yet. You need to get the starter turning the engine over before ignition spark is a concern.
If the battery burns the headlight bright, then the battery must have enough charge to turn over the starter motor.
When you have this situation the first thing you need to check is both battery cable connections, at each end of each cable.
Check them on the battery, on the ground where the cable is connected to the frame, and at the starter solinoid. All connections must be clean and be tight. Resistance will cause problems with a starter motor.

Now, does the engine turn over? If yes, then you solved the problem and on to the spark if needed.
We replaced the plugs and coil and still no spark. On the Generator there is an aftermarket regulator that has a red and green light on it but neither of the lights illuminate. I'm thinking that I am not getting any juice to the coil. I have proven this by replacing the coil and connecting the plug wire to the plug while its out of the cylinder and I dont see any spark when I trun on the egnition. (Again the motor is not turning over when I try to use the electric start just that dang clicking.) Again, you must get the starter motor to turn over the engine before worring about the spark, plugs. ignition coil and all the other stuff. First things first, and in the proper order. If the engine is not turning over you will never see any spark at the plugs. Putting the plug on a ground and turning on the ignition key is not going to make a spark. (Maybe I mis-read your post on that subject?)
If this did not get the engine turning over, then you will need to test the entire circuit and all of the parts that go into the starter circuit.
Do you have a factory service manual?

'but I'm trying to get this thing running by Thrusday (My B-Day)' I think you can forget that unless you have a very minor problem with dirty cable connections. Good luck with it.

If you have any questions let me know and I will try to help you with the details of what you need to do........pg

 

The starter has not turned the motor but it does light up the headlight pretty bright. When I turn the key on and try to start it the light does go dim so I'll try the following:

1. Charge the battery and attempt to start it again. - I dont think that this will work.
2. Check the connections. I have already doen this but I'll disconnect the cables and re-connect after cleaning the contacts. -I really hope this works...
3. Replace the battery and attempt to re-start. - This better work....

My problem with replacing the battery is that the battery is in the oil tank as you know and it's VERY tight. I have attempted to remove this before but I cant see how to get it out. Its an after market chrome tank that is obviously larger than stock. There are 4 nuts / bolts holding it in place with rubber isolators. I can unscrew the nuts but its so tight I can barely get it past the rubber mounts to move it out of position. Then the tank isactully is touching the rear of the motor. How in the heck did the previous owner get this thing in there?!?

I am assuming that the above will get me spark. If so, then that will move me on to the next challange, the carb...

It's got the stock (Assuming it's the original)Zenith / Bendix carb and I've heard mixed reviews regarding this carb. I was thinking of going to a S&S or a CV. I have heard good things about both... What are your thoughts here?

I'll try to get some pics uploaded in the next few days to give you an idea of what I'm working with. Thanks for all your help piniongear...

 

"When I turn the key on and try to start it the light does go dim"
This indicates that there is a load thrown on the electrical system when the turned ignition key makes the lights dim. This could be because of a weak battery, or binding in the starter motor.
My problem with replacing the battery is that the battery is in the oil tank as you know and it's VERY tight.
Let's take a short cut here. Just hook up jumper cables from your car to the bike battery. If the bike engine does not turn over with this hook up, then you have problems within the starter motor.
As for getting the battery out......well, someone got it in, so it will come out. You may consider removing the seat. You may have to move the oil tank forward too at the same time. If the car battery turns the engine over, then remove the bike battery. Otherwise don't waste time with it until the main problem has been found and corrected.
Bendix carb is good. Everyone will tell you that an S&S is the only carb to have. Rubbish. A Bendix is fine. I use one and have used Mikuni. The truth is, most carbs work great if they are in good working condition and tuned properly.......pg

 

If you have troubles to remove battery it might be damaged ( dryed and swelled ).
Re-check battery cables, they might be broken where insulation start next to connector.
If you use jumpper cables connect + terminal directly to that upper ( comes from battery) terminal of solenoid and try to start normally.
You can check if solenoid is damaged by jumpping those big terminals ( be carefull ) with a big wrench

PG is right there isn't nothing wrong using bendix carb, S&S is usually recommented because
it's cheapest aftermarket carb, no other reasons to use it. Sure new carb is better than wornout old one but you always can rebuild old

 

Ok, Here is the latest update.... We got the starter to tun the motor but as I said before the carb is not getting fuel to the cylinders. So we used a spray bottle to spray gas into the carb. That got it running for a few seconds. The batter is now charging over night and I hope to get the car re-built today. I have never rebuilt a carb befre so this is all pretty new to me. I have removed the carb and unbolted the float bowl just to get a feel for what this thing looks like. It seems like it would be pretty simple.... AmI totally off my rocker here?

My agenda for today.

1. Locate & Pickup Rebuild Kit.
2. Rebuild the Carb
3. Install the carb and make adjustments to get it running smooth.

Do y'all have any advice that you could share with me here?

Thanks again guys....

 

First off, pull the fuel hose off the carb, stick it into a bottle and turn on the fuel petcock to make sure the gas is getting to the carb. If gas is getting that far, shut off the petcock and see if you can get the floatbowl off the carb without removing it form the bike. Most XLCH's don't have anything in the way, but yours has been modified, so it might. If you can get the bowl off, put a can or bowl undter the carb, turn on the gas again and see if the gas comes through. If not, the float valve is stuck. If it does, make sure the float doesn't drag on the side of the floatbowl. It is fairly common for someone to bend the float hanger or crud to build up so that the float contacts the side of the bowl and sticks open or closed.

 

If you have the carb kit in hand, there are probably no instructions with it. Putting in the kit is pretty straight forward. When you take it apart......remember how things fit back together. Remove an item, then put it back on. Remove it again and then repeat that with the next part if you are not sure about something. A Bendix is a very simple carb.
Look at the O ring that is around the main jet body on your carb. Is is rotten or degraded? When this thing goes on a Bendix it can cause problems with rich running at highway speeds. I have a long grim story about this subject, and it took me some time to discover the degraded O ring.
I doubt that is your problem however, since it runs when you spray gas into the carb. Just be really careful not to set the bike on fire doing this.
I think you are only a carb kit away from getting it running. The contact points should be looked at and if those are pitted, get a new set and install.

Two things to watch out for however:
1) You will need to set the float level correctly. If you do not know how to do this then just tell me and I can provide you with information on how this is done.
2) The end of the float spring is going to require you to work at getting it inside the float bowl and keeping it there while you attach the float bowl with the 4 screws. I use a pocket knife blade to hold it inside the gasket area as I slip on the bowl. Failing to do this may result in a leaking float bowl, so pay attention to the end of that spring. It wants to stick out across the gasket face.

Question: What made your starter motor turn over? You said it now turns over the engine, so that is great progress. I was wondering if it was a bad cable connection, or something else?..............pg


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Great News..... It’s running!!!!

Here was the deal....

Carb is rebuilt... I was heading out of the office and on my way out I bumped into a guy that was parking a nice, newer Harley on the sidewalk. We started talking and lo & behold he is a cab specialist and had me hand the carb over to him along with the kit and we had it apart and back together in less than 30 min.

I went ahead and had my battery tested and it was pretty much shot It looked like it was holding a charge but when any load was placed on it the cold cranking amps went to -2. To get the battery & oil tank out I had to remove the starter assembly just cuz it was so tight. Upon removing the starter I realized that the starter bendix was spinning both ways so I replaced that before I put it all back together. I got thebendix replaced, swapped out the battery with a Harley Gel Core checked all my connections, double checked everything again. She started up the first crank.... WOW.....

I took her for a spin that night (No Tail Light, No Tags, No License) so it was a VERY short ride but it was AWESOME!!!

Nice and loud, great compression & a smooth ride for a rigged framed bobber if you ask me...

Thanks for all of your help guys. I still have it up on the stand in the shop and I have ordered a front break kit for the bike (Lever, Reservoir and line) I have also ordered a tail light and switch kit. They should be in any day now. As soon as they are in I'll be installing them. Once I get the bike legal (Inspection)I'll get it registered and then I'll get my motorcycle license.

Is it Christmas? It sure feels like it!

Thanks again guys! As soon as I can I'll post pictures...

 

I do have a question now that its running -

The rear exhaust pipe is actually touching the Oil Tank / Battery Housing. The oil tank does get a little warm on the short rides that I have taken it on. Is this a problem? If I were to tralier it to Sturgis this year and ride it for a few days would this cause long term problems or is it no big deal? I do plan on using at as a daily driver just to save on gas...