well all is or was well in my day.until i parkedmy 71 sportout side the local pub for a quick game of pool before my boys swim party. i went in with no troubles and had one draft beer and 2 games of nine ball.came out andhey the old girl went off on the first stroke. but when i went to take off it just killed it . no klucth so i got it rolling went back to the shop and adujsted every thing up,still NO clutch at All so i adjusted it tight so it would slip,,,, still ,,,,no clutch when i got this baby it hadthe 6 spring tension nuts tightend down all the way??? it had no clutch!i havnt goten that far yet as i had to go swiming. by the way before i stoped for the beer it had no slip,,vibration or problem at all
my ???is could them nuts be turning down on there own?? and if i had way to much oil in there would that affect my cluct release???anyone got any ideas,,,thanks jared

 

What do you mean by the term 'you have no clutch'? The clutch will not dis-engage, or the clutch slips?
If you start the engine and put it in gear.....it sounds like the bike jumps forward and kills the engine because the clutch will not dis-engage. If that is the case, I can think of only two things that it could be:
1) The clutch cable has broken. That surely is not the problem because you would have mentioned it.
2) The 3 ***** have somehow jumped out of the sockets inside the clutch release arm. But again, you would have had a lot of slack in the clutch cable were this to happen.
So tell me, did you find that you suddenly had a lot of slack in the cable and to fix that you simply adjusted the cable adjuster to eliminate the slack? That would tell me you need to re-position the 3 ***** and adjust the clutch release properly.
Those two things are the only conditions that could the clutch to fail to dis-engage when you pull in the lever..........pg

 

My clutch crapped out to on my 72 sproty.Wont engage it was slipping but i had to get to work. Soi ran it anyway, now its gone i tryed to ajust it but no love. Any pointers befor i take the cluch out and look it over? My manual sead if any friction plate is to thin replace it whats to thin the book dont say?

 

Too thin is when there is not enough material left on the plates to allow the clutch to grab by friction. I cannot state a value for that. It just depends on what they look like when you get it apart.
If your clutch slipped badly then you may have cooked the metal plates as well. Again, you will not know until you pull it apart. Bad steel plates will be blueish and/or warped. Put them on a plate of glass to check. Any wobble means they are done...........pg

 

I just pulled my clutch apart. The steel plates have a burr around the edge, is this normal? If I file the burr off can they be reused if they are not warped? My friction plates are covered in oil, does the oil penetrate the material? Can I sand them and reuse them, or do they need replacing?There is scoring on the inside of the clutch.

 

Rat Bike.....
The friction plates are covered in oil because this is a wet clutch and is designed to run wet with oil. You are OK on that.

Plates can develope burrs because of wear. File them smooth. I would then wash the friction plates throughly in gasoline and allow to dry. After that, see what kind of condition the friction plates are in. Do not sand the plates!

Check the steel plates. Are they blue? Are they warped? If the answer to either question is yes then I would say the plates need to be replaced. Otherwise you can reuse them.

The next thing to look at are the six sleeves that are around the 6 clutch studs. What kind of condition are these in?
They should all be the same length. These sleeves come in at least 3 lengths......1.530 inches is standard.
They also come in 1.490 and 1.450. The important thing is that they are all the same length.
You tighten down your outer plate until it is tight. What the plate hits are these 6 sleeves, and then you can turn the 1/4 inch nuts no further. The sleeves do two things:
1) They keep the outer plate straight, which exerts even pressure on all clutch plates.
2) They set the distance the outer plate is tightened to. This results in the correct pressure being applied the the drive plate. The pressure comes from the inner large springs pressing outward against the outer plate.

Finally look at the slots in the clutch hub. Are they rough and burred where the friction plate tabs fit into the slots? If they are really burred badly you may want to look at getting a new hub. What bad burrs do here is to trap the clutch friction plates (some or all) which can prevent them from moving freely when you engage/dis-engage the clutch. The result is clutch problems.

The 1971 and later clutch is a wet type, having two large pressure springs pressing against the outer plate (officially called the releasing disc).
The 1970 and earlier clutch was a total different animal, having six small springs instead of the two large ones. It was a dry clutch as well, and any oil that got on the plates doomed them forever. So be real glad yours is a 1972........pg

 

hello, i have a 2002 dyna wideglide thats covered 16000 miles i have only owned this bike for 6 months. the problem is with the clutch it clunks most times when changing gears it does not slip just a loud clunk i have adjusted the clutch a few times but its still there. would they just happen to have aclunkey gear box or should i replace the clutch plates. any help to this problem would be most appreciated, thanking you

 

At the risk of sounding disrespectfull (it most certainly is NOT my intention), you may get more responses and more helpfull info from one of the forums that revolves around the bike you have. You are currently asking a bunch of guys that ride a bike with a completely different type of set-up than what you ride, in that the engine and transmission are cast together in one case vs. 2 seperate units. If you were asking about an older (pre-evo) bike, I think the consensis would bethat a "clunky" feeling/sounding transmission is normal. For an '02, don't have a clue. Alot has changed in the 25 years between my '77 and your '02 and it may or may not be normal and most of us don't have a newer bike to compare the difference.

Also, don't be shy to start up a new thread on a subject that seems to have been covered before. I don't think anyone's going to rip on you for it. We're a pretty good crowd here at HDF.

One more thing... because you only have two posts, I just have to say...




WELCOME, you have found a good home.

Rich

 

pinion---i think i read in a book(dont laugh) that the rouigh edges on the steel plates were common and are just suppose to face outwards.you think its best to file the edges off the steel plates??---not being an *** i am just asking..learning...

also, my question---got my 81 about a month ago..alot of learnin some ridin...no regrets.anyway the clutch was slippin bad wheni got it.adjusted it.pulls good requires a little force to get into 1st..all other gears shift fine.its very hard to start while in gear.i tightened it up more than it should and i still have that problem.i am about to replace the clutch friction/steel plates..springs and any thing else i can think of.------what else can i check..what would cause this problem?is it a trans problem?--thanks.

 

In regards of the real hard shifting and or heavy Clunking when shifting I was told from a Harley Mechanic that the problem is in the trans and is most likely the shifting fork wich sometimes gets bent especially if you or the previous ower is shifting without using the clutch while moving.

I know mine does the same thing and I have tried to ignoring it but it seems it is going to catch up with me no on my 74 XLCH since she is now starting to not want to shift into nuetral.

and yes the shifting fork is in your tranny and can cause other problems if not attended to. from what I have been told again just my 2 cents