okay...Found a map that will wor k on Power comannder website.....but.....i am a little CONFUSED ( do to burnt brain cells from my youngr years) could anybody out there EXPLAIN the proper way of mannually making it a little richer. just cant figure it out..
Thanks

 

Mac,

So when you are looking at the grid in the software...Assuming you are using the software loaded on a computer.

Every number you see is a percentage above stock of fuel. So you can set 10% richer at 20% throttle and 3000 rpm for example.
It's not like a carb where you can just richen it up a little. You have much more control, which equates to much more confusion... at least for me

So anyhow, pick your rpm ranges and your throttle percentages and up the numbers as you desire. You can also use negatives to lean it out some over stock.

Don't forget to zero the throttle when you install it, otherwise the whole map will be 'off'


Page 2 of the map allows you to do the same but advancing/retarding timing instead.

Does that help?

 

Hi, Rhubarb...

When I spoke to PC tech support he said to be sure to set 100% throttle as well as 0%, something that is often overlooked, which can be achieved by clicking on the appropirate button and blipping the throttle quickly to WOT. I hadn't and it was off, but now corrected.

BTW, how did you make out with your tuning we discussed about two months ago? I keep leaning out the take-off and cruise regions of the grid and am down to 2 between 2000-3000 rpms and 5-10%, and have also decreased 1000-2000 @ 0-10% throttle, neither with any ill effects. Once in a blue moon it will burp slightly right off idle, but it is rare and hardly noticeable, and I've seen no heat problem or detonation yet. Oil temp stays <200°, usually 150-180° while rolling in these cool temps. Have a cooler but it should not be kicking in at these temps.

 

Face Plate Buttons
You can change the fuel curve with the faceplate buttons. This is a simple adjustment that can move the fuel curve richer or leaner in each area of the map.

1. Press all three faceplate buttions at once
2. Turn on ignition
3. Set the desired degree of richer or leaner mixture using the buttons in the desired rpm range
4. Turn off ignition

The exactinstructions are in the documentation that came with your unit or may be viewed from the CD.

Good luck

 

I have to admit that I am chicken. Because I don't have the tools to monitor the EGT and mixture, I'm afraid I will lean it out too much and burn a hole.
I find it pretty amusing that I am scared since I wouldn't hesitate to tune a carb.

I flipflop every week on getting a professional tune for $375.

Your results sound great... How is the fuel mileage doing?

 

I have a 114cui kit installed with a PC IIIand I get between 38 and 41 mpg.

 

Showoff

I have stock 88 with pipes, ac and PCIII and get a whopping 35...

Iclick was doing some experimenting with timing and cruise values...

 

Try some different maps. When I got my stage one (88cui) way back when, I tried several maps before I found one that gave me good gas milage (43mpg) and the performance I wanted (seat-of-the-pants dyno). The map that worked was for a completely different set up than I was running.

Be sure to check the plugs while your testing so you don't run her to lean and ruin the engine.

 

I think you can feel and listen to your bike for clues, as if it isn't detonating you shouldn't fry a piston. So far I've heard nothing and the performance is excellent, though I sometimes feel it when I get above the economy band (the ranges I mentioned earlier), as if a few extra ponies had just been awakened. That is fine by me, as I want the performance when called upon, but the economy when cruising or casually running around town, and if its a bit weak at low throttle inputs so be it. I've felt a slight burp right off idle on two or three occasions in the past month, but it is almost unnoticeable when it happens and I don't plan on trying to tune it out.

I'm getting about 36-38 mostly around town in these cool temperatures when there are lots of cold starts. It takes this engine forever to warm up, as related to oil temperature, and while it is doing so the EFI is compensating by dumping more gas into the mixture. Frankly, I don't think there's anything that can be done about that short of finding a way to fool the EFI into thinking the bike is warmed up. Then I would have to endure the behavior I experienced with my carbed Evo when I pushed the choke in one block from my house, sputtering and coughing, in the interest of better mileage.

On long rides along the backroads I've been getting 46-48, higher as the air temps increase. I think mileage will go up 10% or more in summer, and if I can get 40 in town and 50 on the backroads, I'll be happy. I think it can do it.

 

iClick,

I failed... I have scheduled an appointment with a well respected dyno house for Saturday.
My bike has spit and stalled on me 2x now, and i just want it done with.

I will post the map, they said they will make it as fuel efficient as possible. They also said that doesn't mean they will cut power.
We shall see what happens. They are going to let me sit with the guy the whole time and discuss things with him.

I'm going to ask about adjusting the timing as you are doing. I have written lots of notes from your posts.

Thanks for all the help. I wish I wasn't so chicken, but she's my baby[&:]