Let us know what map they started with and the map you ended up with, I'd like to see how they compare.
Something else I just found out is that Dynojet just came out with a newer version of their USB software, I don't know what changes were made but I've already downloaded it but haven't used it yet because it's so damm cold outside right now.

 

Will do.

Iclick, I plan on seeing what I can find out about what you are doing as well.
Hopefully I can validate your changes are safe.

 

I'd appreciate it. Your bike coughs and stalls with the map you posted a month or so ago? After my tweaking, mine's much leaner than yours in the take-off and cruise ranges, and I get no coughing, except the small burps I mentioned earlier. Did a 160-mile ride today with no issues. Did I post my last map? It shows a "2" in all squares between 2000-2750 and 5-10% throttle. I also leaned the take-off (1000-2000rpm @ part-throttle) from my original posting.

Mileage update: On this ride today I got 43mpg doing mostly backroads at speeds of 55-60mph, but the air temp didn't rise above 44° and oil temp not higher than 150°. Too damn cold for riding, but it's been raining so much lately we were getting cabin fever. I see a direct relationship between mileage and air temp, as has been the case with every car and MC I've ever owned.

 

It doesn't have trouble all the time. A lot of the time it runs great. Every once in a while it stutters or spits just enough to get me off balance.
It's done a real number on my low speed confidence. My appointment is at 10am tomorrow, so I should have some info by tomorrow night.

I'm hoping to get 40mpg and perfect running. If I can even just get the perfect running I'll be happy.

$375 for a tune! Going labor rate here is $100 an hour, they tell me 2.5-3 hours. I'm gonna sit there for all 3 hours if I'm paying full rate.

 

To correctly set throttle position, the engine has to be running??? Or is enough to have the ignition on???

'Cause 100% thorttle inside the garage wouldmake my neighbours angry....

 

OK to do with key on, engine off at 0/100% throttle,better to do closed throttle with engine running due to a higher battery voltage present with alternator charging,do 100% throttle with key on, engine off as long as the battery is fully charged. Thevoltage difference with engrunning or notat 100% is not as critical as at 0% throttle

 

I'm almost certian that the bike has to be running and connected to a laptop to set the throttle position.

 

Iclick...

Oh man was my map from Fuelmoto off!

I'll scan my dyno sheet on Monday when I get to work.
I was running so rich, I'm suprised it ran at all!
I have to pull the maps off the bike, but wife wants to go to dinner soon.
I'll grab em tonight though. Cylinders were way way different.

Original AF was as low as 11:1 at times...

Original max run: 66hp 73tq
After Tune max run: 79hp 83tq

Smooth as a sumbitch now too. I was VERY skeptical coming into this, but I'm a believer now. Without all the right tools there is no way to do it right from home.

 

The engine also needs to be at operating temp, according to the instructions.

 

Wow, that was unexpected! I wonder if mine is off, too. There are no tuners in this area with the DynoJet Tuning Link software necessary to do a correct tuning, but there are three within about 80 miles. The problem is I don't know which of these is the best or indeed if any of them are worth a flip! DynoJet couldn't help, but could only provide the location of these tuners. Great dyno stats!

Mine's not running rich based on a plug read a week ago, especially in the cruise area. We did a ride today, about 250 miles total, and my mileage was decent: 46mpg for the first fill-up (~45-55° air temps, never in 6th gear) and 47.5 mpg on the return leg (~60° and occasionally could get into 6th gear). I think I'm happy with this, and wonder if it could get much better. Last Friday we rode in colder temps (44° max) and although I got only 43 mpg on the ride, a new (500 miles on odometer) and stone-stock RK used .3 gal more than I did after 130 miles. Considering a stock bike should do better because of the narrow-band closed-loop dictating 14.7:1 A/F ratio at cruise, I thought I was doing okay. Of course, that bike wasn't as thoroughly broken in, which could've been a factor. Mine had about 2300 at the time, and about 2600 now.

I'd like to see that dyno sheet and your PCIII tables!