I've read a lot of similar threads.
But I'd like help to narrow some things down.

It's my first bike, I've had her for 2 years july, and late last year she was dying from what I thought was lack of fuel, and it turned out to be the cause, my petcock diaphragm had failed, so I've fixed that.
I have totally written off any problems with fuel flow, and dirty carb jets.
On the phone with the shop, the guy said it could be anything, and they'd be putting it on the dyno to try and reproduce it. which sounds like a cash sink.

But my bike will still die on the road at speed.
I replaced the ignition coil and high voltage wires to spark plugs in the past 6 months.

And when It dies, the speedo and lights are still on. It will turn over, but rarely start again. If it starts, It will not ride for very long. but then I get it home, and wait 10 min and it starts.

Sometimes I get a ride without any problems, mostly when its started from cold.

Things I've been considering are the low voltage wires to the coil maybe shorting somewhere..?

I read a thread or two about the kill switch or ignition switch shorting out.. Are these the same thing? could my bike be susceptible to this? (threads i read were not sportsters)

Should spark plugs be checked after the engine has completely warmed up? Could a shitty plugs be doing this? they were changed in november...
Would all my effing around trying to start it all the time make them black and sooty?

Could it be the Bank angle sensor?

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!

I'm at the point where I only feel safe riding it within a pushable distance, and only uphill from my house. It's a terrible feeling.
But It's all I can do to troubleshoot it.

 

I would be looking at the ignition module.......Heat kills electronics and where it is located in the RHS gear case cover it gets real hot.

A good replacement can be found here http://www.daytona-twintec.com/model_1005.html

 

I agree with Scotty

I had the same movie, Riding along fat dumb and happy and then the bike stops. After taking my bagger back to HD and changing every part
in the ignition, it turned out to be the module. You maybe able to test it ( I'm told) by starting the bike and blowing hot air from a hair dryer on the module. I dont know of any bench test electronics that can load test it to make it go on and off. A buddy of mine had the same problem recently and upon inspection of his old module there was evidence of a heat blister on the plastic case. If yours has a blister on it I'd bet you found the culprit. Nobody wants to shell out $250-300 bucks if they don't have too so check the coil too. a crack in the coil can open up when hot and give similar troubles.

Hope this helps

 

So after reading both of your posts, and being doubtful.
I did some diagnostics and now I'm inclined to beleive you guys

The kill switch does not seem to be the culprit as when it trips, the engine will not turn over, which doesn't match my symptoms.

I am curious about engine oil, and what effect extremely low engine oil levels would do. I unknowingly had a leak from the low point drain's factory pipe clamp off the T to the frame. I have since fixed that, and put new oil in.

Would a lack of oil pressure kill a bike?

It was not run for very long with low oil, only once for a short time with not registering on the dipstick.

I replaced the ignition coil last year and I would be shocked if my bike is somehow killing coils, everything else in the ignition system does check out.

Unless it dies again and I find a short in the bank angle sensor
which there does not seem to be when I checked it, although one reading was slightly low. It could either be 4-6v across these two poles (means good) or 0v or 12v both of which or bad. I got a reading of 3.28v which is closest to good..
but could that be a sign of impending doom?

I wouldn't be surprised to find a kink in the wiring harness. Last year I had issues with my left turn signal not working. It canceled my right, but the left would not blink.

The kicker is after doing all the oil stuff, It rode fine for 6km around the block, getting up to around 80kph. I felt down on the riveted cover that houses the ignition module.. and it was pretty warm

Is there anything that cools the module?

How is it normally prevented from heating up too much?

Would this thing be 12 years old, or would they have replaced it with the 1200 conversion?

And if I drill out those rivets, can I replace them with some small screws?

 

Well I've finally gotten time to really dive into it.
I found a short in a wire, and it seems to be the pink wire from the coil to the ignition module has a break, or near break. I get .39v where I should be getting 12v +/-1.

I assume this is of great concern. But I had a similar issue last year with my turn signal, it ended up having a short in some random wire too.

Could this be a kink in my wiring harness? should I consider replacing the wiring harness?
or just take it in and ask them to fix that wire short? which is the cheapest way to do it?i was told wire lengths are voltage regulators in cases like this, and that I shouldn't just run a new wire, but I'm temped to try...

 

Hey everyone

Just thought I'd post an update.
Turns out I was mistaken, and during my diagnostics, I got a zero reading because the plug I was testing was not connected in the same manner the book said it was (I.e. Pink in pin 5, was actually in pin 3 and such)

I ended up buying a new module, installing it after the guys at the shop kind of chuckled when I said I was going to do it myself. No issues, the bike now runs amazing, actually better and stronger than it ever did with the Screamin Eagle module.

I even felt good enough about it to do the mod I had been thinking about.

Thanks for all the input guys, Just thought I'd update the thread in case anyone else has the issue.