I've been reading a ton of articles and cant track my issue. I have a '08 Rocker C with a SE110 SE cam and SE big sucker intake, and a supertrapp pipe.
When i start the bike 90% chance it'll back fire. When i'm riding it when downshifting it'll back fire so hard its been compared to a percussion round being dropped! At night my buddys think its great that my bike has a flame shooting out of my pipe most the time!!! I dont agree!

I bought the bike with the Thundermaxx so i dont have the harness to plug it into my computer, not to sure what i should buy. It has the PS/2 plug like the one on a mouse sticking out by the battery. That being said I dont know what map i'm running. I think the cause of my problems is to much fuel pushed by the TM?

Any tips or tricks would be great thanks.

 

You are working blind. The bike should be hooked up to a computer for diagnosis. You can download the software from the Thundermax website. The cable is NOT the same as any computer cable. You are going to have to buy one from Zippers Performance.

One of the BEST sources for tuning and diagnosing the Thunderman is the Harley Tech Talk website. A guy there named "Mayor" knows just about every thing there is to know about the Thundermax including how to tune and tweak it. He has helped many including me.

 

Hear is a novel concept...contact Zippers. They are usually very helpful and will help you with whatever issue you have. I have been running the TMat for almost 4 years and with the last round of map updates, it does nothing but run better. Contact Zippers.

 

Had same problem with TMax. It was caused by an exhaust leak at the head.
Flat SE gaskets do not seal very well on a TC88 because the c'bore for the gasket is deeper on a TC and the flanges will bottom out before sealing.

Air leak and the TMax will add fuel.

Either use two flange snap rings behind the flange or use the stock tapered gaskets. Stock gasket in place of the SE gaskets cured the back fire.

Sounds like you already have the serial cable attached to the TMax. You will need a Serial to USB converter and the proper driver.

Download software here: http://www.thunder-max.com/Support/I...nSoftware.aspx

Get a cheap converter from Tiger Direct: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...6963&CatId=464

 

I really don't like to speak poorly of a company, but that was NOT my experience. I used to deal with James Ramsey in support and he was the opposite of helpful. I swear all he wanted to do was anger and frustrate the customer so they would leave. He was condescending and talked down to the customer. He expected you to know the whole Zippers manual verbatim before he would even try and help.

That is how I found "Mayor" on HTT. Myself and a bunch of other frustrated T-Max users went to him and he helped us out. He dianosed issues and showed us how to use the settings to better adjust the system. He provided more support than James Ramsey ever did.

Speaking only for myself, and based on my experiences, Thundermax is a good product, however Zippers support is less than ideal, and James Ramsey is the worst person to deal with.

 

James got let go is the word I got from Randy at the Cinci Expo. I guess a loty of folks got the "James' treatment.

I, too would have you try Zippers. THEN, go to Mayor.

 

I had the same problem with a loud backfire. I also got a lot of help from 7Hogs at HTT and he spent a lot of time with my map. I had initially tried to work with Zippers and they helped up to a point but I got the impression they didn't care that much. Like when it took 2 or 3 weeks to get a response from them.
Sorry to digress. Anyway, even though my map was perfect on paper the backfire was still there. Ended up being bad intake seals, so check for leaks there. These were the 3rd set of seals and thought we had eliminated them as a factor, but there was nothing left we could think of.

 

Injected bikes don't like leaks. I have been fighting an intake leak on a 2000 R/K with a HPI throttle body. Four set of seals already and new seals and flanges due today. How did you finally cure the leaks?

 

I've worked with carbs but I didn't feel like dealing with the EFI. The first seals were done by a dealer under warranty, who didn't like the fact I told them I tested for a leak. They said they changed them but I suspect they did not do them at all. The next time I had my indy take care of them. He said the old ones looked good but changed them out. After a couple of months the leak was back, so I took it to a different dealer who didn't resent my input. That took care of it but I'm still holding my breath. I was afraid that the mating surfaces on the flanges were bad but it looks like it was done right this time.
After a couple of minor map tweaks all the backfiring and decel pops were gone. It's also set up a little rich but I don't mind since it runs so strong.

 

I spoke to Randy. He walked me through the process. Emailed a couple of things to me (more or less immediately) and I was able to solve the problem I had with my TMat. Never spoke to a James. I don't believe it can hurt to speak directly with them.