Good news! I removed the PC and the Stage I kit and took it into the dealer. They took a look at it on the computer and the code that was showing up was an "old" code. Once they cleared it the problem did not come back. Had I read the info on putting the speedo into DIAG mode thouroughly I could have cleared the old code myself [sm=icon_rtfm.gif].

I got the bike back home and reinstalled everything. I was working like a NASCAR pit crew this time having done it and undone it already. Was back on the bike and running in about 30 minutes.

FYI, I think what I did to cause the error code to appear was hook up the 9V battery to the PC while the PC was connected to the bike. The PC software started getting weird readings on my computer when I did this and I noticed the check engine light shortly after that.

So, don't plug in the 9V battery to the PC while it is connected to the bike to be safe.

KB

 

The 9v battery hook up should'nt cause any problems, I have to use the 9v to power mine if I want to veiw real time data with the engine running. I have uploaded all my maps and done all adjustments with the pc connected to the bike, no problems.

John TN

 

Did he ever get back to you on this?

Mac

 

Look at your other post

 

Well, just wanted to update you guys and thank you for all the help and advice. I found a map that is very close to my setup. M807-012 Hooker true 2:2 exhaust (set to Horsepower), Stage 2 ECM, Screamin Eagle heads, 203 cams and Screamin Eagle air filter. The only difference is the exhaust, I have Vance & Hines classic slip-ons. I installed it and downloaded this map yesterday but it was raining like Heck. I am going to try it out today and see if I can tweak it myself with the laptop if needed. Anyone have any suggestions for tweaking it for just different exhaust?

Thanks again.

Bill

 

Bill dunb question. Have you tried this site?
http://www.powercommander.com/807mapsbystg2.shtml

 

As a matter of fact, I did, got the M807-012 Hooker true 2:2 exhaust (set to Horsepower), Stage 2 ECM, Screamin Eagle heads, 203 cams and Screamin Eagle air filter. The only difference between that and mine is the exhaust. It seems to be working good but it looks like to get an exact match I'll have to pay the dealership 250 for a map.

Thanks

 

Four5acp, what I read on PC's website said to pick the map that is closest to your configuration. If you have different pipes, then you look at the inside diameter and baffle length to match up with the map. If the dimensions on your pipes are close to the dimensions for the V & H you should be OK. I would still consider getting a custom map from a reputable DynaJet tuning center. If you search on their website, dynajet shows all the authorized centers in your state. Then just call them and check out their prices. Those that do a large sportbike buisiness will probably be the most expensive.

 

four5acp

I still think if I were you I would get a base dyno run, about $30.00 to 45.00, this will give you the AFR readings that are the key to tuning an EFI or even a carbed bike, if you don't want to do a custom map, this is the cheapest route, and it will clue you to what rpm area's that might need to be adjusted if the AFR numbers are too lean or too rich, instead of just guessing by how the bike runs. This is basically how the tuner does it anyway by starting with a base map that is close to what you have now. A little rich I don't worry about, it's the lean side I worry about.

 

I went ahead and got the custom map done. I know that I didn't gain too much (3hp) by doing so but the rideability has improved so much. I didn't think it could run better but it does! The throttle seems more responisve also. It was a lot of money but now at least I know I'm getting the full potential out of my investment. Thanks to everyone who responded.

Bill