It would most likely be an easier task to quickly install your stock ECM and see if the IAC cycles. If it does not cycle, then most likely your IAC has failed. However, as you have found the thread by Merdahl regarding the IAC driver failure of his Tmax.....

I just went through a little issue with (what I thought) was my Tmax. Turned out to be the positive battery cable. I had vaguely similar issues that I thought were the IAC issue that Merdahl cites. Thankfully, it was not.

I dc'd the Tmax and plugged in my stock ECM. All was well. Plugged my Tmax back in....nothing. So...path of least resistance for me was to plug in the factory ECM and help in diagnosis. If your IAC driver in the Tmax has failed you will need to contact Zippers and send it (most likely) back so they can check it out. Or you can swap he IAC and see what happens. I would want know that the Tmax was/was not the problem. I like mine. Especially now that I have solved the positive battery cable issue. Good luck!

 

I'll be sure to post my results after i throw in the IAC 2day, was your battery cable issue caused by a long battery caddy bolt pinching the wire? I had that happen to the neg cable?

 

Tmax bad, Randy at zippers says $190 to repair unit on an ecm exchange!!!!

Bought new in June of this year.... Paid FULL EFFING POP. Elect surge and the unit is junk? TOTAL EFFING BULLSHEEITE.
Your telling me a thousand doller computer doesnt have surge protection???????

OVER THE THUNDERMAX

 

Anyone wanna buy a thundermax ?

 

No. Mine was not cause by a long battery caddy bolt pinching the wire. Mine was caused by an improperly attached positive battery cable bolt into the positive battery post.
Approx 18 months ago I had my battery replaced. Bike had run fine until two weeks ago.
Went out one morning to head out. Bike fired up just as normal. I had not gotten 400 yards down the road and it started to run like crap. I believe it ultimately stalled. I was able to get it restarted and turned around and limped it home. It would not idle. Had to keep on the throttle and even then it felt like it was running on 1/2 a cylinder. Not sure which half.
Got it back in the driveway, shut it down. Tried to restart. No go. Engine would spin over without issue. Then I notice my fule pump would not cycle. At this time I am scratching my head. I d/c'd the Tmax, plugged in the stock ECM and bike fires up/runs just fine. Actually ran quite well considering I had changed cams, pipes and AC. Anyways, I plug the Tmax back in, engine will turn over but will not start and no fuel pump. At this time I start dragging the foums looking for similar issues. That is when I stumble on the Merdahl posting. Also, I contact Zippers. Spoke with Randy. He emailed some stuff to me.
At this time, for some reason, I pull the battery to clean the connections. I go to the positive post and try to unscrew the bolt that holds the positive cable. Very difficult. I go to rock it and (WTF?) the head of the bolt shears off right at the shoulder. DC the neg cable and pull the battery. I have the majority of the positive battery bolt screwed into the positive post with no more than 3/16's" sticking out and it is slightly angled. So what happened? Tech somehow screwed the postive battery cable bolt into the head at a slight angle and cross threaded the bolt. I think that the shank of the bolt has welded itself into the post. Now, I look at the post itself and you could see (what looks to me) to be evidence of sparking/arcing between the positive battery cable and the post. I did take batt back to shop and had a little chat. Turns out that the tech is no longer there. Don't know whay. Did not ask. Does not change a thing. But there is no way I can get the remains of the post out. Fortunately, there is another threaded hole on the top of the post and I was able to affix the poitive cable to that. I reprogram the Tmax as instructed and I am back in business. Or at least for now. In my situation, my bike has run just fine since the battery install. I have not had any issues with the Tmax. My situation was different from Merdahl. He and I conversed and his situation are not the same. However, I will say that I, like him, might not "trust" the Tmax. I had just taken a trip to the coast and bike ran great. I did carry my stock ECM/O2 sensors with me. After this incident, they will be in the bag on any trip. No, I should not have to carry them, but better to be prepared.
Merdahl's situation is somewhat unique. I have never heard of Tmax IAC driver failure. I cannot comment. I was afraid mine was next in line. Also, My Tmax is long out of warranty.
As for your situation, I have also never heard of the $190 fee to exchange for a Tmax under warranty. So do you pay $190 and replace it or do you turn around and buy a whole new system for $XXX and go through the tuning process for another $XXX? I don't know what the answer is and am not going to tell you what to do. What I would tell you is if/when you buy Tuner XYZ you had better make sure that all your electrical issues are taken care of before you hook it up.
In my situation, if my Tmax fails (which arguably mine did not), I might replace it with something else. I am going to run it until it craps. But the problem is...I don't know of any
knowledgeable "tuners" remotely close to where I live. that is why I went with the Tmax in the first place.
I simply wanted to give you a synopsis of my experience. I also know that I will be installing the next battery. Good luck to you.

 

I guess mine and Merdahls issues are the same.... I was super pissed last night and voiced it.... Had some dude say QUIT BITCHEN and pay the $190..... Ive had several problems with corrupted maps and tuning issues... MY point is, If there are any elect issues Your Tmax will NOT be Warrantied.... Had I not been working with Zippers to figure out the problem and just Told them it was bad they would have fixed it FREE