Reading The Mulitimeter & Can I Do This
#1
Reading The Mulitimeter & Can I Do This
Hi Guys (Newbie Still Here)
Two Question Please:
1. Can I use my car battery which is 12 volts to test my bikes voltage regulator ~ my bike battery is DEAD AGAIN ?
2. Where on my multimeter does it show the correct reading showing that the car battery is good to use ?
I'm just not sure where i put the dial indicator on my multimeter ?
Two Question Please:
1. Can I use my car battery which is 12 volts to test my bikes voltage regulator ~ my bike battery is DEAD AGAIN ?
2. Where on my multimeter does it show the correct reading showing that the car battery is good to use ?
I'm just not sure where i put the dial indicator on my multimeter ?
#2
looks like you have it in the right place,,,read the dc voltage on the second scale down from the top of your meter,,,the black scale that indicates DC...with your car running you should read 13-14 volts when you put the meter leads across the battery,,,you should get the same results on your bike with a fully charged battery,,,I would also check the amp out put of the regulator,,,not sure what it should be on your bike,,,call a moco mechanic to find out,,,
#3
Let Me Ask You Another Questions Please
Hey Seph10
Thanks for bring me to school are how heck to read me new multimeter. So each BLACK SLASH is 3 volts as I see it on the second black scale from the top like you said.
Another question: How many AMPS should my 12volt motorcycle have fully charged as to appose to a car's battery. Both fully charge ?
Thanks for bring me to school are how heck to read me new multimeter. So each BLACK SLASH is 3 volts as I see it on the second black scale from the top like you said.
Another question: How many AMPS should my 12volt motorcycle have fully charged as to appose to a car's battery. Both fully charge ?
looks like you have it in the right place,,,read the dc voltage on the second scale down from the top of your meter,,,the black scale that indicates DC...with your car running you should read 13-14 volts when you put the meter leads across the battery,,,you should get the same results on your bike with a fully charged battery,,,I would also check the amp out put of the regulator,,,not sure what it should be on your bike,,,call a moco mechanic to find out,,,
#4
The smaller bike battery will have less amps available, but DO NOT test the battery with the meter's amps function. A good battery will have 12-12.5 volts at rest. With the motor running at about 2000 RPM, the voltage there should be around 14 - this is the output of the regulator. If this is not the result, more tests are needed.
#5
Selenoid Clicks Light Go DIM ~ Bike Doesn't START ! ! !
Hey Dallas ( I'm still a Newbie )
This FLHTC of mine is driving me NUTS. Trying to find what I believe an Electrical Short in the wiring or wherever
Here's what been done so far before they take me away to the funny farm:
1.New Battery.
2.New Spark Plug Wires.
3.New Coil.
4.Rebuilt Carb.
5.New Gas In Tank.
6.New 10v. Spot Light Switch
And bike STILL WON'T START.
I turn the ignition on to try and start the bike and I get G-G-R-R-
but no start. Then I hear the SELENOID CLICK.
I turn the ignition on and without trying to start her; the headlight goes on and then I hear a " CLICK " from the Solenoid and the lights
go " DIM "
When I just leave the ignition on and SOLENOID doesn't click the light are bright ~ like there's nothing wrong.
Battery read: 12.9v.
Look at the first two photos of my dash board #1 the ligths are DULL the solenoid just clicked.
Now look at the second photo the lights are BRIGHT ~ THE SOLENOID DIDN'T CLICK.
(GO FIGURE)
When I turn the ignition switch onto " lights " and turn either one of my signal light on. The signal goes; BLINK then count 1,2,3,4, AND BLICKS AGAIN VERY SLOWLY. That's front and rear light doing this.
I just know there's a short somewhere. I checked the SPOT LIGHT SWITCH on my dash and its good; but when I try to TURN ITS ON I GET ' NOTHING' NO SPOT LIGHTS. The switch was bought on:10/9/'11 ~ its new !
This FLHTC of mine is driving me NUTS. Trying to find what I believe an Electrical Short in the wiring or wherever
Here's what been done so far before they take me away to the funny farm:
1.New Battery.
2.New Spark Plug Wires.
3.New Coil.
4.Rebuilt Carb.
5.New Gas In Tank.
6.New 10v. Spot Light Switch
And bike STILL WON'T START.
I turn the ignition on to try and start the bike and I get G-G-R-R-
but no start. Then I hear the SELENOID CLICK.
I turn the ignition on and without trying to start her; the headlight goes on and then I hear a " CLICK " from the Solenoid and the lights
go " DIM "
When I just leave the ignition on and SOLENOID doesn't click the light are bright ~ like there's nothing wrong.
Battery read: 12.9v.
Look at the first two photos of my dash board #1 the ligths are DULL the solenoid just clicked.
Now look at the second photo the lights are BRIGHT ~ THE SOLENOID DIDN'T CLICK.
(GO FIGURE)
When I turn the ignition switch onto " lights " and turn either one of my signal light on. The signal goes; BLINK then count 1,2,3,4, AND BLICKS AGAIN VERY SLOWLY. That's front and rear light doing this.
I just know there's a short somewhere. I checked the SPOT LIGHT SWITCH on my dash and its good; but when I try to TURN ITS ON I GET ' NOTHING' NO SPOT LIGHTS. The switch was bought on:10/9/'11 ~ its new !
The smaller bike battery will have less amps available, but DO NOT test the battery with the meter's amps function. A good battery will have 12-12.5 volts at rest. With the motor running at about 2000 RPM, the voltage there should be around 14 - this is the output of the regulator. If this is not the result, more tests are needed.
#6
Selenoid Clicks Light Go DIM ~ Bike Doesn't START ! ! !
Hey Dallas ( I'm still a Newbie )
This FLHTC of mine is driving me NUTS. Trying to find what I believe an Electrical Short in the wiring or wherever
Here's what been done so far before they take me away to the funny farm:
1.New Battery.
2.New Spark Plug Wires.
3.New Coil.
4.Rebuilt Carb.
5.New Gas In Tank.
6.New 10v. Spot Light Switch
And bike STILL WON'T START.
I turn the ignition on to try and start the bike and I get G-G-R-R-
but no start. Then I hear the SELENOID CLICK.
I turn the ignition on and without trying to start her; the headlight goes on and then I hear a " CLICK " from the Solenoid and the lights
go " DIM "
When I just leave the ignition on and SOLENOID doesn't click the light are bright ~ like there's nothing wrong.
Battery read: 12.9v.
Look at the first two photos of my dash board #1 the ligths are DULL the solenoid just clicked.
Now look at the second photo the lights are BRIGHT ~ THE SOLENOID DIDN'T CLICK.
(GO FIGURE)
When I turn the ignition switch onto " lights " and turn either one of my signal light on. The signal goes; BLINK then count 1,2,3,4, AND BLICKS AGAIN VERY SLOWLY. That's front and rear light doing this.
I just know there's a short somewhere. I checked the SPOT LIGHT SWITCH on my dash and its good; but when I try to TURN ITS ON I GET ' NOTHING' NO SPOT LIGHTS. The switch was bought on:10/9/'11 ~ its new !
This FLHTC of mine is driving me NUTS. Trying to find what I believe an Electrical Short in the wiring or wherever
Here's what been done so far before they take me away to the funny farm:
1.New Battery.
2.New Spark Plug Wires.
3.New Coil.
4.Rebuilt Carb.
5.New Gas In Tank.
6.New 10v. Spot Light Switch
And bike STILL WON'T START.
I turn the ignition on to try and start the bike and I get G-G-R-R-
but no start. Then I hear the SELENOID CLICK.
I turn the ignition on and without trying to start her; the headlight goes on and then I hear a " CLICK " from the Solenoid and the lights
go " DIM "
When I just leave the ignition on and SOLENOID doesn't click the light are bright ~ like there's nothing wrong.
Battery read: 12.9v.
Look at the first two photos of my dash board #1 the ligths are DULL the solenoid just clicked.
Now look at the second photo the lights are BRIGHT ~ THE SOLENOID DIDN'T CLICK.
(GO FIGURE)
When I turn the ignition switch onto " lights " and turn either one of my signal light on. The signal goes; BLINK then count 1,2,3,4, AND BLICKS AGAIN VERY SLOWLY. That's front and rear light doing this.
I just know there's a short somewhere. I checked the SPOT LIGHT SWITCH on my dash and its good; but when I try to TURN ITS ON I GET ' NOTHING' NO SPOT LIGHTS. The switch was bought on:10/9/'11 ~ its new !
The smaller bike battery will have less amps available, but DO NOT test the battery with the meter's amps function. A good battery will have 12-12.5 volts at rest. With the motor running at about 2000 RPM, the voltage there should be around 14 - this is the output of the regulator. If this is not the result, more tests are needed.
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