Electrical advice needed
#1
Electrical advice needed
Hey there,
I am new to this forum and need to seek some help. I just purchase an 1989 FLHTC from the first owner, with 36,000 original miles and all service receipts. I feel that I got a great deal. However, I am discovering a few issues. The previous owner stated that he hadn't riden it for the last 3 years, but has always kept it on a battery tender. Odd?? I don't know. I rode it to work (14 miles) today and when I left the volt meter was reading about 12 volts. When i got to work it was reading 0 volts. I had to put it on the charger. Rode home and it was back at 0 volts. Where do I start? The battery, regulator, stater. Please give me some advise. I don't want to replace this and then that. Please help!!!!
Joe
I am new to this forum and need to seek some help. I just purchase an 1989 FLHTC from the first owner, with 36,000 original miles and all service receipts. I feel that I got a great deal. However, I am discovering a few issues. The previous owner stated that he hadn't riden it for the last 3 years, but has always kept it on a battery tender. Odd?? I don't know. I rode it to work (14 miles) today and when I left the volt meter was reading about 12 volts. When i got to work it was reading 0 volts. I had to put it on the charger. Rode home and it was back at 0 volts. Where do I start? The battery, regulator, stater. Please give me some advise. I don't want to replace this and then that. Please help!!!!
Joe
#2
if that bike sat for 3 years, even a battery tender won't keep the battery in a usable state. the acids in a battery deteriorate over time regardless of whether it's constantly used or not used at all. The latter case is even worse on a battery. Change the battery and I think your issues will go away.
#4
Don't trust that gauge on the dash. With it RUNNING... take a voltmeter between the two battery terminals. It SHOULD read between 13-14 volts. If not... then the charging system needs repaired, if it DOES read 14, change the battery.
I would actually change battery anyways for reason stated above.
I would actually change battery anyways for reason stated above.
#5
#6
UPDATE: I had the battery tested at two different shops and both report it as a GOOD battery. I then used the volt meter at the battery terminals and took the bike to 2000 RPMs and the voltmeter read 12.21 volts. Now I believe the Stator is the issue. One shop quoted me 5.5 hours plus $375 for the kit consisting of the Stator, rotor and Regulator. This seems a little crazy to me considering I found a OEM replacement kit on Ebay for $159.00. Just looking for someone to do the labor here in California. Does anyone have any thoughts on any of the above????
#7
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#8
UPDATE: After the purchase of the manual for my bike, I came to the conclusion that the stator was good and the regulator/rectifier is in fact the part that was bad. I ordered the rectifier online and had it shipped to my office the next for $75. I installed it the same night and have not had a problem since. Everything is good and I have been riding to work every day this week and a few days last week. Thank you all for all of your help.
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