Ed,
Thanks for the pointers. I knew there were a few things to look for before tuning just could not remember/know what they all were. I probably should get the idle squared away and make sure all the sensors are ok before I make any changes to the bike. I know my local Stealer has a dyno and Direct Link but I am not confident in their abilities, they act as if they don't even want to mess with my bike. So trying to find a good tuner around here is going to be tough even tougher will be one willing to mess with the M&M system. Too bad you are not in Wichita KS. Do you know if Direct Link has the ability to save the original MAP?

 

Direct Link can save the original map on a Delphi but not a Marelli system. Wichita KS is only 5 hours away.

 

Hmmm.....5 hours away....tempting

What items do I need to make sure are operating correctly before getting the bike tuned. I know I need to make sure that the throttle plates close all the way, that the small nozzles in the throttle body are clear, and that the air intake temp sensor is ok. I kind of remember that there is a procedure for checking the TPS, I believe, and making sure it is within a certain (or at a certain) voltage range but I cant remember what that is? Also is there anything that I can do to make the tuners life easier and cheaper for me?

 

Actually the Throttle blades should be .002" to .003" with a feeler gauge. Then the TPS needs to be adjusted to Service Bulletin M-1105. While doing this you want the idle to be 950rpm to 1050rpm and the fuel values need to be at an AFR of 13.5-14.0 with the motor all the way hot and off of the warm up circuit or step counts at zero. The older dealer Scanalyzer hand held unit gives you all the information and Direct Link gauge screen will give you all of the information. It will be very difficult for you to get this exactly correct without the necessary tools like AFR sniffer and someway to look at the TPS voltage while adjusting the throttle blades/TPS. The dealer should be able to get this if they have someone knowledgeable in the M&M system. The mechanical warmup circuit is usually the culprit that causes the most problem and needs to be adjusted as well. The system really works pretty well if it is mechanically correct and the setup is correct. Once the TB is setup tuning it is straight forward, with Direct Link you have a much finer resolution of the TPS/RPM cells and you have complete control over ignition timing. Let me know how you make out.

 

Thank you for your help. I just need to get the ball bearing rear cam ball bearing, INA inner bearings, spring chain tentioners, and cam change all taken care of and then I'll get it tuned. I'll let you know how it all turns out after tuning. With luck I'll get a a touch more than the stock 65 hp. I really don't want a monster but some good torque and more HP would be nice. Still want this to be a good streetable bike.