Power Vision Information Thread
#981
Quote:
At a glance the VEs look very similar to the fuel moto tune I have. I did not notice it on this ride but have had some weird idle issues. I not in the log I found idle spots of around 970 for steady amount of time. I also see where it idles at exactly 1000. Is that a normal observation?
What exactly are the "weird idle issues"? If you see 1000 rpm on your tach and the log files show 970, I would say this is normal, as my tach and ECM tach don't exactly jibe either. At a typical 952 rpm idle speed in the ECM the analog gauge shows around 875-900 on my bike. My speedo doesn't match up with VSS either, but I'm resigned to these little anomalies since they don't seem to cause any problems.
The main weird idle issue seems to be gone. I think it was the cable going to manifold rubbing a hole in outer cover. Since I have ty wrap that cable back out of the way no more major issues.
My tach will read 1000 sitting at idle and at other times under 1000. I also see exactly that in the data logs. I am no way naive enough to think my tach is exactly right. I am ok with that. I think what I am asking if its a normal observation for example pull up to stop light and bike seems to hunt around for a second to find idle? Before it was almost dying when hunting idle and I called it "weird idle issue" has not done that since tying up cable. But I do notice it "hunts" idle a little bit. The way it acts on last couple of runs is ok and not a super big deal for me. I can see a couple spots in data log where it dipped to the 950-960 rpm and then settle in at 1000. I acknowledge I am just over analyzing.
At a glance the VEs look very similar to the fuel moto tune I have. I did not notice it on this ride but have had some weird idle issues. I not in the log I found idle spots of around 970 for steady amount of time. I also see where it idles at exactly 1000. Is that a normal observation?
What exactly are the "weird idle issues"? If you see 1000 rpm on your tach and the log files show 970, I would say this is normal, as my tach and ECM tach don't exactly jibe either. At a typical 952 rpm idle speed in the ECM the analog gauge shows around 875-900 on my bike. My speedo doesn't match up with VSS either, but I'm resigned to these little anomalies since they don't seem to cause any problems.
The main weird idle issue seems to be gone. I think it was the cable going to manifold rubbing a hole in outer cover. Since I have ty wrap that cable back out of the way no more major issues.
My tach will read 1000 sitting at idle and at other times under 1000. I also see exactly that in the data logs. I am no way naive enough to think my tach is exactly right. I am ok with that. I think what I am asking if its a normal observation for example pull up to stop light and bike seems to hunt around for a second to find idle? Before it was almost dying when hunting idle and I called it "weird idle issue" has not done that since tying up cable. But I do notice it "hunts" idle a little bit. The way it acts on last couple of runs is ok and not a super big deal for me. I can see a couple spots in data log where it dipped to the 950-960 rpm and then settle in at 1000. I acknowledge I am just over analyzing.
#982
I did a log run with the AE and DE zeroed out.....didnt seem to hurt anything in the way it ran.....I was suprised. I also dropped the idle down to 900 for the run to see if it would make any changes down there.....it didnt. Only changes I got were some timing in the rear cylinder.....it was hotter than blazes here today and I was doing som 5th and 6th gear WOT roll ons and I had some pinging.
Ive been tweaking on Jamies original map he gave me for my setup
2011 Limited
Ness Big Sucker
Woods 555
Rinehart Classic True Duals
Power Vision
Its been pretty much right on....first few log runs made small changes in VE F&R and a some timing......havent been able to make anything change for awhile since except some timing issues like today...and I figure that was just the heat. This is with the stock O2's..dont know if I wanna pop for the wideband just to see if theres a little more there. I figure I can spend those $$ on something else.
I do have something wacky with my idle though since we're talking about it....when its first warming up and the idle starts to come down I take off.....get down to the corner ,about 6 blocks, and stop and its idling at about 1500 then will slowly go back down then it will be normal the rest of the day. The idle RPM table isnt wacky so I m lost but used to it as it only happens once a day so Im used to it and it doesnt bother me. Just weird..
Ive been tweaking on Jamies original map he gave me for my setup
2011 Limited
Ness Big Sucker
Woods 555
Rinehart Classic True Duals
Power Vision
Its been pretty much right on....first few log runs made small changes in VE F&R and a some timing......havent been able to make anything change for awhile since except some timing issues like today...and I figure that was just the heat. This is with the stock O2's..dont know if I wanna pop for the wideband just to see if theres a little more there. I figure I can spend those $$ on something else.
I do have something wacky with my idle though since we're talking about it....when its first warming up and the idle starts to come down I take off.....get down to the corner ,about 6 blocks, and stop and its idling at about 1500 then will slowly go back down then it will be normal the rest of the day. The idle RPM table isnt wacky so I m lost but used to it as it only happens once a day so Im used to it and it doesnt bother me. Just weird..
Last edited by Glyder; 07-11-2011 at 06:14 PM.
#983
Mine doesn't run in closed-loop, and I'm tuning with the AT-100 Pro. AE is one of the parameters required for datalogging, so I assumed PV Tune was compensating for the fuel added. AE would be activated in the opposite direction, on decel, and I can't see how that would impact the tune much. I'm just trying to find excuses to deactivate neither, as I would like to be able to pull a datalog at any time while riding without having to make any changes in the tune first.
#984
You're right on all counts and I've thought about this too, but there's a problem. By opening the AC element to the front, outside, or leaving it open as with the product in your link you face the reality that it will get wet in heavy rain, and I don't like that idea. If anyone has a solution I'd like to know about it.
The HD Heavy Breather has a rain cover in the kit, but at $300 I'll pass. They don't make it for antique bikes like my '07 anyway.
The HD Heavy Breather has a rain cover in the kit, but at $300 I'll pass. They don't make it for antique bikes like my '07 anyway.
#985
I currently have Excel 2003 and it can't read the longer log files either, clipping them before the end. I don't know the cutoff point, though. I try to make my logs last about 15 min. each, as PV Tune can handle multiple CSV files at a time. I just have to remember to do it while riding, but PV Tune seems to have no limit to file size, at least if so I haven't found it. AFAIK the only downside to the larger CSV files is being able to view them in third-party applications like Excel, Google, etc. You'd think Excel could handle a longer file for crissakes.
I haven't tried it yet, but my impression is that since PV Tune can't increase spark advance you can do it manually and let PV Tune decrease it with the Spark Knock feature. IOW, just increase your advance 2° (or whatever) across-the-board and let PV Tune tweak it downward over repeated datalog runs. Again, I haven't tried this, so maybe someone who has can comment on its effectiveness. Dennis? Hal?
-Dusty (aka Hal)
#986
I do have something wacky with my idle though since we're talking about it....when its first warming up and the idle starts to come down I take off.....get down to the corner ,about 6 blocks, and stop and its idling at about 1500 then will slowly go back down then it will be normal the rest of the day. The idle RPM table isnt wacky so I m lost but used to it as it only happens once a day so Im used to it and it doesnt bother me. Just weird..
#987
I haven't tried it yet, but my impression is that since PV Tune can't increase spark advance you can do it manually and let PV Tune decrease it with the Spark Knock feature. IOW, just increase your advance 2° (or whatever) across-the-board and let PV Tune tweak it downward over repeated datalog runs. Again, I haven't tried this, so maybe someone who has can comment on its effectiveness. Dennis? Hal?
Last edited by JustDennis; 07-12-2011 at 09:25 AM.
#988
#989
OK, this may be a dumb question, but I logged two more files last night (NB) and plugged the values into the log tuner and it still continues to decrease the front and rear VE values considerably for the map that Jamie sent me (especially in the 0-2% throttle areas). I haven't disabled the AE or DE, but each time I log and adjust, it seems the VE's get reduced in the leftmost side of the table. Also, the only changes the log tuner seems to update are F&R VE, I'm not seeing any spark changes.
How does the log tuner actually calculate the changes?
Every time I update a tune and go for a test ride, I have good power, but my ET according to the PV continue to climb with each ride. Jamie's tune at cruise gets me between 370-380 degrees as indicated, I have seen as high as 392 degrees (as I keep lowering VE values based on the log tuner calcs), but my oil temps have not exceeded 240 (analog dipstick gauge)
Does this seem normal? I have an 09 Nightster with V&H 2-1 and a Heavy Breather. I'd be glad to email my map from Jamie, as the site won't let me upload the .pvt file type.
I'm just confused about the log tuner process, because the FM map has AFR (Stoich) set from 13.0 through 14.6 depending on the cell, but the log tuner has a setting of 14.6 with a max temp of 288, which I exceed regularly.
I appreciate any insight - I don't want to burn down my bike, and I want to understand how the tuner works.
How does the log tuner actually calculate the changes?
Every time I update a tune and go for a test ride, I have good power, but my ET according to the PV continue to climb with each ride. Jamie's tune at cruise gets me between 370-380 degrees as indicated, I have seen as high as 392 degrees (as I keep lowering VE values based on the log tuner calcs), but my oil temps have not exceeded 240 (analog dipstick gauge)
Does this seem normal? I have an 09 Nightster with V&H 2-1 and a Heavy Breather. I'd be glad to email my map from Jamie, as the site won't let me upload the .pvt file type.
I'm just confused about the log tuner process, because the FM map has AFR (Stoich) set from 13.0 through 14.6 depending on the cell, but the log tuner has a setting of 14.6 with a max temp of 288, which I exceed regularly.
I appreciate any insight - I don't want to burn down my bike, and I want to understand how the tuner works.
#990
You are exactly right. I have tried it and found that the original map I got from FuelMoto was very close. Anytime you advance the timing you risk detonation so do this carefully. As Dusty/Hal mentioned, it would be good to add fuel when advancing timing. If you are running closed-loop (14.6/1.00), I would set the AFR richer to something like 13.8 or even 13.0 to do the spark tuning. My initial tuning only made minor decreases to the original timing from Jamie. After testing as you described, I went back to what Jamie sent with the minor changes tuning made. I could tell they did a good job on setting the timing.
I also think that using this method would dial it in for the tank of gas you currently have, and that this would vary with the relative octane of what you are running at any given time.
It's too bad Delphi couldn't have also developed a system that works in reverse of the spark-knock feature, which would be to incrementally advance spark on-the-fly until detonation occurs, which would keep you optimal at all times. But that's neither here nor there.