Power Vision Information Thread
#9611
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Keep in mind there is a PV-3B, now commonly called Power Vision for Harley Davidson. Its for 21-23 bikes. Fuel Moto calls it Powervision for Harley Davidson. DynoJet lists all three as PV1B, PV2B, PV3B. Others call it Powervision for Harley Davison Touring 21-23 but it works on softails too. So calling the touchscreen one the PV2 could cause some confusion because there is a PV3 that's touchscreen as well. Not sure why DynoJet did that.
If I flash with the TTS, will a Harley dealer be able to access the ECM?
#9612
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I have the FP4 which is only good with Harley or V&H parts. You can’t tune with it… and use auto tune at your own risk. It bricked my ECM twice. I also had Harley’s SEPST. Only good if you have Screaming Eagle parts and you do not want to tune. Finally went to the Power Vision which I like a lot. However, if I had to do it again, I would have went with the TTS as it is more flexible.
#9613
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Sure and if needed you just restore the original calibration (mte) that's stored in the blue box. There's also a copy saved in the "upload" file in the TTS software.
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rigidthumper (07-15-2024)
#9614
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i just bought a brand new power vision for my nightrain 2002 fuel injected tc88 that now has s&s 509 cams and new oil pump and cam plate for hydro tensioners i followed install instructs to the ltter and it backfireing out the intake and also exhaust so i bought the dynojet to change the mapping in prosess the unit says invalid vin and i cant get any preloaded tunes so im stuck with quick tune in ask if you can give me some values for those setting s
#9615
#9617
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These work -You should have ~60 PSI @ key on for 2 seconds, and then dip a couple PSI/minute key off. If the pressure is low @ key on, possible bad pump/regulator. If it approaches 60 @ key on, but then immediately drops back below 45, there's an internal leak- typically the check valve & hose need replaced. Care must be taken, because the regulator housing is plastic, and easily cracked when replacing the hose/applying the clamp.
#9618
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ok so i got a new line and used the old to make a pressure guage, its an old oriellies auto parts guage dont know how accurate it is i turned on ignition and it shot up to 56,57 on the guage if i dont try and start it will drop after a couple seconds to 53,54 and stays there at key off it does bleed down very slowly so im thinking its not a pressure issue as of now i got the stock tune reflashed and when i try to start it instanly backfires i did the new cams and cam plate as per instructions from fueling there was one thing i dont know if it matters the supplied inner chain wouldnt fit the S&S 509's so i used my original it wasnt loose or worn i got the dots centered and facing each other and lined out the rear cylinder then used the rear tire in fith gear to rotate the crank until tdc front cylinder the timming mark \s all match the instruction pics i need some help
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#9619
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ok so i got a new line and used the old to make a pressure guage, its an old oriellies auto parts guage dont know how accurate it is i turned on ignition and it shot up to 56,57 on the guage if i dont try and start it will drop after a couple seconds to 53,54 and stays there at key off it does bleed down very slowly so im thinking its not a pressure issue as of now i got the stock tune reflashed and when i try to start it instanly backfires i did the new cams and cam plate as per instructions from fueling there was one thing i dont know if it matters the supplied inner chain wouldnt fit the S&S 509's so i used my original it wasnt loose or worn i got the dots centered and facing each other and lined out the rear cylinder then used the rear tire in fith gear to rotate the crank until tdc front cylinder the timming mark \s all match the instruction pics i need some help
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There is no pre programed tune from dynojet that will run those cams.
If you bought the powervision from FuelMoto, they would give you a tune that is close to your custom combo.
are you 100% sure you cams are in the proper position?
#9620
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A compression test will verify if cam timing is close. Front and rear should be even, at about 175 PSI, if everything is normal. If one is significantly higher than the other, say 190 front and 155 rear, then its entirely possible you are off a tooth front cam to rear cam. If both are even but low, or even but high, then it's possible you are off 1 tooth crank to cam side. If one cylinder has no compression, and the other normal, pushrods may have been reversed.
Also check spark plug connection- bike will respond like you say if the spark plug wires are reversed, even if everything else is normal.
Also check spark plug connection- bike will respond like you say if the spark plug wires are reversed, even if everything else is normal.
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yamahog (08-10-2024)