I am using gauges but I'm also filtering through some pretty hairy traffic and trying to not die at the same time. The issue is I'm quite often on the edge of having to pull the clutch in if I get a slower rider in front of me and today I got stuck in the blackwall tunnel unable to get past traffic and doing 11mph, that's when it got really hot MAP was sub 30, TPS < 5%. Was trying to decide which would be better, rolling with the clutch in or lugging along with the throttle shut most of the time.

 

ok - forgot you we’re a city traffic rider in the UK. Know you route there well. Anyhow. Bet you a pint this will fix your knock occurrences and audible pinking when doing the heavy traffic stuff. Your issue sounds like running way too lean at low revs causing too much heat generated and when you go for a traffic gap, especially if still in second gear and lugging it will pink coz of the heat, not the timing.

goto the PV quick tune screen in the pick and increase the DECEL VEs by 15%

if that fixes the traffic riding issue you owe me a pint but job not over - adjusting what DJ says is DECEL allows changes some cells I think more applicable to ACCELL but to make decisions on this you need to settle on the AFRs you gonna use and then we need to get the VEs sorted

let us know how it goes

STOP PRESS - DARN I SHOW A PIC WITH THE FUEL TAB - I MEANT VE TAB THEN DECEL +15%

NOT FUEL, THAT MIGHT HAVE PETROL RUNNING OUT THE PIPES��

 

Ooops lol, well it didn't get too hot but it banged a bit. The other issue with the knock at high speeds is an odd one, it's basically constantly pulling timing over 90 unless the air temp is cool.

 

t

can you start with a stock ignition map? i can help you build the full AFR table next week when back from this wonderful Dalmatian coast tour i am on. then let’s get it tuned with WB autotune pro or on a dyno

my input still is you take it up to Dynojet UK and let them do their dyno magic to create a good solid base. well worth the ride and few hundred smackers.

 

I've put a stock ignition map on, it was only slighlty different in a couple of places, mainly additional retard in a few cells. Maybe I'll just book into HM racing who are only an hour or so away. A few of my friends have had their bikes mapped there and all speak very highly of thm.

 

No matter what you do to the map ...it's not going to help the heat issue when trying to ride an air cooled motor in stop and go traffic...
and when adding compression ...well ...that won't help either !!!
you should look into a set of cooling fans and oil cooler...there is a 45-50 degree difference with and without ...
good luck ...
https://love-jugs.com/new-mighty-mite/

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Stop start I agree with but rolling at 10 to 20mph in 50-60f shouldn't overheat an engine, I'd imagine that at 10mph the airflow is similar to those fans.

 

Well upping the decel VEs in quicktune didn't work to keep the motor cool so I'm abandoning the CDE table change and going back to the somewhat successful tune I had when I first dropped the AFRs and start being a bit more focused in my enrichening.

<30 map <2500rpm seems like a sensible place to start from what I'm seeing on the gauges.

 

Hi Brian,
Just installed and set up a PV on my wife's Sportster and reading some stuff I stumbled on this thread.
I noticed your query, I did the same KW set up on my ‘18 Streetglide recently and initially with the FM supplied map had a very similar issue, ie very erratic idle. I binned the FM Map and downloaded one of the maps that suited a Khromeworks system set up from Dynojet that are incidentally pre loaded onto the PV unit, this was heaps better albeit I still didnt feel it was perfected so took it along to a dyno guy near me. Hey presto that sorted it, she now runs perfect.
hope this helps in some way.
Good luck

 

Thank you for the information I ended up adding the target tune seems a little better the idle still not quite right which tune did you put in that was preloaded into the PV thank you