is that running or stopped? I checked with a feeler guage when it wa stopped. I did a propane test on the entire intake system and didnt find any leaks.

 

While running, I was thinking 1700 rpm would need air from somewhere?

What are your IAC steps while idling? did you say you replaced the IAC valve, why was that? is the old one just the same? suspect electric connector on the IAC?

 

The iac is what i suspected from the begining so i replaced it. The iac is working correctly, I can take the breather off and put my finger over the hole and it has no effect on the idle when it is warmed up and high idling.

 

Blocking the idle air bypass does nothing?? does that not suggest an air leak somewhere then?

 

It should but i cant find if it is.

 

Just got back from the dealer and he suggested checking the idle stop screw as mentioned earlier. My question is if I back out until im at .45 volt at my tp sensor, is that .10 pts that im moving enough to cause this? My tp sensor is reading .55 now.

 

If you couldn't get a feeler gauge in then adjusting the screw to get the 4 thou FLTRI17 suggested will likely increase that voltage from what you have already ...but, I too read somewhere in a forum post about setting the voltage but there is no mention of a voltage, 4 thou, or that set screw anywhere in my 2014 manual??

Are there any separate instructions for the SE 58mm TB??

 

I wasn't planning on moving it to move the butter fly but to get the correct voltage. That's why I ask if the .10 voltage was enough to create this problem.

 

The 58mm is maybe different to the stock then, the screw sets the butterfly position ...which has the sensor on the end of the shaft therefore changes the voltage

 

Done. Lights are now wired directly from the fuse box. At the moment, the PV is plugged into the diagnostic port. TT will be arriving tomorrow and, after install, the PV and TT will connect at the diagnostic port with the "Y" connector.