I suspect the idle area VE's are too lean. You can hook the PV up and look at the gauges screen and see what they are and also what the idle Throttle Position is. It should be 0 on your model. I think 2 is next step and it will be too high and keep speed up. When cold it has a warm up enrichment that will help keep the rpms down. On quick tune you can richen the idle area up on VE screen by increasing them 5 points. You are cable throttle, have you checked to see if cables are adjusted properly and working right. If get carbon/oil deposits around the throttle blade can keep it from closing all the way. If none of this helps run a data log from the gauges screen and attach it. Can likely see what is happening.

 

I have attached a short data log, its after its warmed up and the increasein the quick tune ve. Cables are adjust correctly, return cable pulls the butterfly completly closed. I cleaned the throttle body good when I replaced the seals so deposits shoundnt be a issue. Thanks for the help!

 

Did anyone adjust the throttle body butterfly screw?
The reason for the idle control loss comes from the ECM not being able to adjust the idle air controller to the target idle rpm.
The butterfly must not close all the way. The screw should be adjusted so a .004" feeler gauge slides between the butterfly and the throttle body when the throttle is completely closed.
Bob

 

The throttle position is staying at 0 when at idle. When the log first started after engine startup the Warmup enrichment was keeping it around 1100. As it warmed up it went up to 1250 and the engine was still cool. As temp got higher it went to 1600+. I would raise the VE for the front 80 from 2000rpms down to 1250 then from 1250 to the lowest rpm set at 68. ON the rear 85 from 2000 down to 1250 then from 1250 down 75 should work. If the 5 column is any lower than these new numbers from 2000 down I would raise them to atleast these numbers.
If you want you can raise the entire 0 column from 2000 to 6500 rpm to 85 or 90 as it will help with decel pop also. This is decel only area and won't hurt anything.
You can also raise the Idle area spark advance with 16 to 20 or 22.
What is happening on the fast idle is it is too lean in that area and won't get down to idle due to that. The hotter the bike gets the faster it will idle if too lean. It will do same thing on the TBW bikes, as I have had mine there several times. Big difference with them is the idle area on Throttle position VE table is 4 to 5.
Now I am meddling. If you swap that Autotune module for a target tune and get Target tune base map, you will be amazed at how much better it works. I think all you have to change is the module as O2's are same and they sell just the upgrade kit much cheaper. I don't have one, and have tuned several that do and much easier and works great.

 

I know the matter of screen freeze or screen going blank has come up on several occasions on this thread, but just wanted to share what worked and what didnt't work for me

According to Jamie at Fuelmoto, "screen freeze is not generally related to firmware however it is always a good idea to have a current version. In nearly every example we have found that it is related to RF interference due to the cable running near a coil, spark plug wire, or ignition source. Re-routing the cable will take care of this in most situations."

I re-routed the cable three times. The third time, I removed my tank and was careful to route the cable away from any sources that would cause RF interference. Reinstalled the tank and the screen still froze everytime I used the bike. I strategically placed a few Ferrite Ring Core RFI IMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clips with hopes of improvement - no luck,

I finally removed the PV unit and connected it to my computer to compare the firmware version. There were also three other items (applications) listed that I could not identify. I updated firmware and two of the other items. Reinstalled the unit and took the bike out for a 30 mile round trip run (my unit use to freeze every time an rode the bike regardless of whether it was a long or short run). The unit was responsive and did not freeze or go blank. I am now a happy camper after over a year of trying to resolve this annoying issue.

Therefore, I can say with certainty that screen freeze can be resolved if you update to the most current versions of the listed applications in the unit. Even if you have the most current version, if you are having freezing issues, reinstall firmware.

 

Im a total newbie to manual tuning and thats why I got the autotune thinking it would be easier guess i was wrong. I am trying to learn and understand all of this but its a a lot intertwining things. I assume you are talking changeing things with winpv instead of the pv. when I go to the areas in winpv that I think you are talking about I'm not seeing the type of numbers your talking about or not understanding. Example raise the front ve your saying raise to 1250, the numbers i have are 70.6 at 750 rpm. So I guess what it boils down to is that i need step by step instructions of the changes if possible. Thank You

 

Its completely closed, cant get a feeler gauge betwwen them.

 

Also, bike is warm, he's run around a bit and when he stops (0 TPS and 0 VSS) it is idling at 1600-1800 ?? somethings not right, not sure lean VE would do that would it? TP sensor voltage might be interesting?

EDIT: btw, if narrowband and wideband can't tune the VE at idle I am completely lost why we would think TT would do it??

 

could my tp sensor be causing this? i just checked the voltage with the pv and it is at .55 at idle. I have read it is suppose to be around .45 at idle.

 

I wondered if it was sticking open a touch but maybe not ...mine sits at 0.61 for example. Other folks keep saying to check for intake manifold leaks??