I have tried a few different combos, but it was at 14.6...I am thinking about doing the 120 build this upcoming winter.. I am wondering if I can do it in my garage myself.. I do most everything else...lol.
Glen

 

Sure. Isn't your bike a 110"? So you would use the new 110/117" cylinders and pistons?

 

you should log your ride data a bit and post it here for one of our experienced tuner members to review, maybe even with a copy of your tune file. that's kind of the only way to see what's going on with regards to fuel short of going to a dyno shop. also your 'mpg adjustment' setting in the tune could be off. e.g. maybe you're doing better than what is actually displayed. have you tried calculating how many miles you're getting out of a tank?

if you've never set up signals for logging, be sure to select the narrow band tuning signals set. then log a couple of 20 minute rides. one in town that is all stop / go and low to high throttle, and then another log that is mostly freeway cruising 6th at light to mid throttle.

otherwise you're kinda throwing darts at making tuning changes and it's easier to make thing worse than it is to make improvements blindly.

 

Oddly enough, I have done this, but each time I end up with a tune that isnt nearly as strong.. or it seems..Likely my MPG is out of calibration...I hadnt thought of that..I will do the "tank test". And maybe stay out of the throttle so much..! LOL
Also, if I have a 110ci does that mean I cannot do the 120 rebuild kit or did I misunderstand..?
Glen

 

S&S makes a 124" hot set up kit that is designed to be used with the SE 110" cases.

 

Logging your ride data does not affect your tuning. it is only logging data to a file for review.

 

Advanced tuning topic related to the PV:

Who here can talk intelligently about the setting within the ECM code that governs the crank sensor and cam events timing?
I've been informed that when you change camshafts you must also change a value (hidden from us) within the tune file that tells the crank sensor what tooth on the crank to start and stop reading the MAP sensor. this will correspond to the cam's intake open and intake close events and make sure that cam events are timed correctly, and MAP is read correctly. Sort of seems like the new high tech equivalent of degreeing your cams to the crank or setting initial static timing of the motor, like back in the Evo days.

Although - there is ZERO information about this mystery ECM crank tooth setting in any of the HD tuning books, builder books, articles, videos, technical literature, etc. And we know that many dyno tuners will tune the stock map after making cam changes with no consideration to this setting- and lots of well running bikes out there.
On the other side of the coin we have PV (DJ/FM), TTS, FP3 suggesting use of the correct base map or setting that corresponds to the chosen cam events. Otherwise the bike will not tune correctly.

I'm not saying this setting does or does not exist, and is or is not important, but - I can't find written reference of it anywhere or even a thread of discussion. If it is so important to tuning stage2 upgrades, why is this hidden setting "hidden" and such a mystery - why no open documentation, tuning discussion etc on this if it is so critical to ensuring proper tuning after changing cams?

 

I am aware of that. I meant after someone looks at my tune, and makes adjustments, and I flash the NEW tune....sorry for not explaining that a bit better...I think the next step is to do a tank test and see if my mpg calibration might be a little out of sync...other than that, I'm very happy with the tune I have...but I won't say it wouldn't be interesting to see how it stacks up to a dyno tuners testing results...I will however post a log and the current tune later this evening of the rain holds off...I am aware of how to collect the right signals...
Glen

 

I can't, But...I'll say that's what makes Fuel Moto's Customer Service/Support such a valuable asset/tool. Just send them the details of your new build/mods and they'll send you a starter tune from their ever growing data base that will be nearly spot on. There was some discussion a while back about Tune Items in WinPV and how/why they may or may not be enabled for the end user, But I don't remember much of it atm.

 

Thanks Smokey- Frankly I don't expect anyone to be able to discuss it since it seems to be very hush hush and not widely known about. But if this is a very critical setting to address for DIY tuners, it should be made openly accessible and documented. Maybe it is not as important for touring bikes with MAP-based VE but it does seem to make quite a difference with the TP-based VE bikes like mine.

FM and DJ were very kind to provide me some starter base maps. Especially FM since I'm technically not their customer. bike ran oddly with both of the maps, idle kpa was high around 43-45, and I had high excessive rear cylinder knock with relatively low advance numbers. Bike felt very flabby down low. I tried using my previous base map from before the cam upgrade, same thing, even though I put all the same settings such as spark advance, VEs etc from the 57h tune files into it.

I got my hands on a member tune file, same bike with 57h cams and bike runs well- they had same issue at first apparently and their tune was tweaked / sent backto them by DJ, and it then ran well. I tried this tune file and it ran well for me also. My next post will have the test and results.