How true. Couldn't get my bike to run as well as I thought it should until I got a free dyno at a dealer event. The techs couldn't understand the reading on the rear cylinder and to their credit, they found the rear spark plug wire was not letting all the voltage through. Fixed that with heavy duty SE spark plug wires. Bike has 50k and is 7 years old, btw.

 

Happy Holidays everyone- I just bought the Target Tune add on for my PV and should have it sometime next week or so. I few questions for those of you already experienced with the product:

1. If you had to weld on 18mm bungs for your bike, where did you place them in terms of distance from the head port? I called V&H, Dynojet, read the TT installation manual, no one knows. obviously they need to be placed optimally in order to be accurate. I have VH Big Radius 2-2 pipes. The TT instructions do not mention required sensor depth either, only to have it at least 10 degrees tilted and between "10 o'clock to 2 o'clock" on the pipe (No idea what that means exactly without more detail).

2. I read that I'll need to get a specific calibrated tune file- Do I want to use a tune file that is "basic", e.g. a canned HD stage1 map, or does it matter? My current tune is so highly customized in terms of VE tables, spark advance, AFR targets, it no longer resembles any sort of stock or stage1 map.

3. Does the TT module do a good job of auto tuning VE's to the bike, for example, if you are shooting for a more performance oriented 13.4 AFR?

My goal is to have a 13.2-13.4 AFR everywhere except the decel area (richer for popping) and cruise areas (leaner 14.2 for bit of economy). Obviously nothing will ever be accurate unless the VE's are dialed in. So I'd like to hear how some of you have done with the new product, impressions, results.

TIA!

 

So with Target tune why would you have to do a Auto tune to get the VE's dialed in. With the TT unit doesn't it read the target AFR and make adjustments to reach the targeted AFR across the entire RPM/KPA area in closed loop using the wide band sensors? Why would you even have to mess with tuning in the VE's any more?

 

All good questions- hopefully we'll get some product-specific experienced answers. From what I know of tuning the VEs are important to have dialed in for the specific motor. That is what the "AT Pro" did, and from what I've read about TT (unfortunately, very limited info available), it is supposed to serve the same functions as AT Pro but also has ability to actually operate the ECM normally in real time with WB o2 data.

However, I would think tuning VEs is still important - really odd and hard to believe if that were no longer the case.

 

I've been following the TT threads for whenever I finally need it. After adding a FM 107 kit,Cams etc...It would seem that if your VE's are already dialed in to your build and your not making any changes adding the TT would only require a modified version of your current tune to work. Although you could Auto Tune it with your adjusted AFR just to get VE's as close as possible. So there would be less of a swing in CLI/AFF for the ECM to calc to hit your target AFR.

 

Hey Smokey- Happy Holidays. Yep that is what I was kind of thinking on its intended operation, it would make sense- I guess I'll find out "Ideally", you can start with a reasonably ok tune file, run AT with the WB and a static AFR table of say 13.4, get VE's within 3-5%, then put back in your correct AFR target table and run it closed loop.

 

Hey guys, I'm by no means any type of expert here, but I installed TT on a guys bike a couple weeks ago. Install was very straight forward. I put a New PV on at the same time and used a FM map. The cruise range was mostly 13.8. my understanding is that when you add TT to a bike that already has PV you send your current map to dynojet or FM and they change your map to be compatible with the wide band O2's. In my case the bike seems to run good in the garage. All snow and ice here so will have to wait till spring to see how it feels on the road and how well auto tune works with TT. Merry Christmas everyone

 

Quick FYI- It appears the TT kit that comes with O2 sensors includes some flat, non rounded generic 18mm weld on bungs. Those are going to be absolutely useless on a Harley, both pipes require rounded angled bungs (even the 12mm NB bungs are set at 30-45 degrees)- like in this example: http://www.afrplus.com/AFRplus-installations.asp - I don't know why they would include flat bungs that are for an automobile, and not specifically notched for 1 3/4" motorcycle head pipes.

Anyway, that's a bummer because a decent set of angled bungs is $20-$30. Here is a listing for the correct types of weld on bungs for HD: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1861-0694-45...-/401034439413 - angled and rounded. Sure you can make the flat ones work, maybe, but it takes a lot more effort including grinding the base of it rounded to fit the pipe. The angled pre-rounded ones are much more flexible.

 

What would make you think they are useless on a Harley?

Andy

 

eh- yeh let me rephrase, more like 'far from optimal'. They won't let you get the correct angle for the sensor, and you'll have to manually grind the flat base of the bung to fit the curve of the pipe. bungs typically sit on the pipe, not down inside it. To make the job easier and come out neater, you normally buy the correct bungs for the application. Flat short bungs normally go on cars and other pipes that are 3" or larger in diameter. I'm sure you or your welder could make them function, but it's just more work and the job probably won't come out as clean. I'm just surprised they included this type of bung is all, since it is an HD application.