Ken, not to go too far off subject, but you have a 577 cam in there, with stock heads and stock cylinders? Also stock throttle body and injectors?

I'm not a rocket scientist about any of this, but does that set of build components usually add up to a strong build? Have you ever had a pre/post build dyno done so you know your start point?

I tried following your posts and it got some complicated my head was spinning. Not to make light of your issues, it's obvious you are going all out to solve your problems, but I'm not sure what that is? Are you just looking for better perfomance in general or is there a more specific problem, and where do you currently stand. Got a dyno sheet?

Just my SWAG but I'm thinking thats a pretty aggressive cam for what looks like an otherwise pretty stock build. Many reads I've done on cams in that range people say compression needs to be increased before the potential of the cam can be realized.. and head work is recommended for real performance but maybe more than you need for your trike.

 

The Genesis 577 is right in between the TW555 and T-Man 555C. My son in law has the TW in 12 Limited with 30 tooth and it does fine. His dad has the T-Man in a 10 Trike with the 30 tooth which is what the 12 has and it does fine. Without the gearing both were little flat until 2500 Rpms. They both run extremely well and both have PV one with Power Duals and the other with True duals and both have 2.5 baffles. You can't restrict the bigger cams without loosing performance. We put some quite baffles on the trike and it died even after retuning. Went back to the 2.5's and picked right back up even after putting some deflectors in the baffles to quit it down, which it did do.

 

Mac- Nice to see you here. What did the 2012 Trikes come with on intake and injectors, 50mm / 4.9? I'm assuming that should be sufficient for a stock motor with pipes, intake and the Genesis 577 cam.

Ken- would be super helpful if you could post the details on your motor such as heads, compression, pistons etc. if any of that was changed along with the cam.

 

Easy, just change the map.

Yes, info is cloudy, except for 2014-15 bikes that have a switch in the software to choose between.

My bike is a 2009. Reading material says up to 2009 used VE (TPS based ) tuning, 2010-up use the VE (MAP based). FM sent me a VE (TPS based) tune to start with, but when I downloaded the original tune it was VE (MAP based). (bike was built early in 2010, maybe that is why?)


Sooo.... I ran four data runs with the FM tune, then hacked my original to come close to what I thought I would needed and ran four data runs with it just for sh**s and giggles.


Have not had a chance to test them against each other yet, but I believe they are going to be close.
Will be logging everything to see if there is any areas that I haven't noticed yet, but bike is definitely more responsive with either.


( bike bought new, still bone stock. Just trying to learn how to use this thing before I start changing, .... well, haven't even decided how much I want to change. The way it is running now I may only do intake and mufflers. )
.

 

That's excellent. I wish I had the option of using MAP-based VEs. I'd roll with that instead of TP-based. A stage1, proper performance tune and gearing upgrade (30t front pulley or 24t compensator), and 68T rear wheel pulley, will go a long way to improve all around performance at minimal cost.

 

Stock heads, .040 gasket, Cylinders were heat scored so bored from stock 3.875 bore to 3.91 bore and 105 pistons installed. Static compression should be about 10.12 to 1. CCP should be around 191. This is off BBoyz calc. I don't have measured #'s. Cam is Genisis 577, Intake lift .577 duration 243 timing 20/43. Exhaust lift .557 duration 238 timing 43/15. Stock throttle body ??MM
Stock injectors 4.35's. DK customs 587 intake, V&H power dual headpipe, RC component 4" mufflers with DK Customs torgue inserts in the ends.

Mac sent me a base map he worked up for me. THANK YOU Mac

 

Indeed- Mac you are a class act, a lot of members here owe you a ton of thanks for the tuning help and advice. It's experienced members like you that make this an AAA+++ forum.

Ken nice build- you're up there on the compression numbers. that motor should make some good power. log your rides with the new tune and keep an eye on engine temps / spark knock events. can always richen up VE's or AFR's in the cruise and idle areas to cool things down / reduce knocks if needed.

- not sure if your throttle body is 46mm or 50mm with the 4.35 injectors.

 

I agree about Mac, definitely a class act! I'll take it a bit further than that though. I've watched this thread from it's inception when Dave (a devoted TTS guy created it) and over the past few months I've seen more good solid use-able information about PV from people like Mac, LA_Dog, oldhippie, Delta, lonewolf, among several others than I've ever seen posted in this thread especially by vendors who preach how good a product is without much information otherwise. Hope this trend continues. Hats off to you guys for your contributions to such a volatile topic of discussion as tuning

 

LA_Dog,

My 2014 Limited had a stock tune that was TPS based, but I noticed that the tunes from Dynojet are MAP based. Why is the MAP based better? Why didn't H-D use them to begin with?

Thanks,

Ron

 

Yeah spot on ultranutz,