You can run the DataLog from the gauge screen and if you have the widebands in place and select pro it will read the AFR that you are running. Lot of data to crunch but you can get it real close. A 10 mile run will have several thousand lines of data to look at. If you have excel you can use filters and formulas to get the data you want out.
You can't just buy another license and put a PV on a bike that has a TTS tuner on it. You have to get an RMA from TTS and send your ECM to them and they will unlock it and send it back. No charge except shipping. Would be easier just to keep the TTS.
I found out if you still have the TTS all you have to do is reload the stock file from the VCI and it will unlock the ECM. The ones I had had dealings with the TTS VCI was missing. The PV is in no way an advantage in tuning over the TTS. I do prefer the PV for the monitoring ability and able to store tunes and quick tune.

 

no need to remove anything just because you dont understand how to use it.

 

Either learn how to use the tools or bring the bike to a pro to tune it for you.

 

certain low load areas could easily be increased without pinging. PV wouldn't reduce those areas...but you'd be running way hot with those high numbers. you're thinking too much. Start with a known decent map. Then leave timing alone until you understand the basics.

 

Ho obviously doesn't do good work then does he. Did he even test ride the bike after he tuned it? You know the area it's popping. Richen it up at that area. It's popping in a no load area between shifts so try to richen or lean just those surrounding cells.

 

That's good for a backyard hack but tossing fuel at a pop isn't always the answer.

 

The problem is most here just add numbers and hope to achieve something. Blah blah blah timing this timing that. Do you even need to screw with the timing table? I guess what I'm asking is what makes you think your timing table needs changes? Do you have the equipment to even know if your timing changes made a positive or negative impact?

What RPM and load areas are you working your timing table? And, why those areas?

If all you have to work with is a PV then leave timing alone. if you got your initial map from a reputable vendor the timing will be closer than you can ever get by guessing. All guessing gets you is a bike that runs hot in certain areas...runs like a dog in certain areas...or just runs like crap overall.

The big question is why are you guessing when it comes to timing?

 

That's the best advice I've heard here in a while. I don't know why folks keep THINKING they can arbitrarily screw with timing tables and THINK they are improving anything.

Folks leave the timing tables alone! Yes, pull a degree out here and there if you see outrageous knock events. But to think you're going to make your bike run better by advancing, by a guess, is just plain stupid.

These bikes don't need all the advance some of you are attempting. You cannot measure any gains so leave it alone. or keep on jacking up the timing numbers to the ragged edge and run hotter than you did before you even dialed in the VE's.

 

question. Once my VE tables have been set after my dyno. Can i decrease my or Increase my AFR without needing to run Basic tune. I have a 107 build and if i try the Basic tune with current dyno'd amp, the bike runs like crap. I want to make a power tune and a milage tune. is this possible ?

 

Hi,

Yeah i wouldnt be touching autotune basic with your engine setup as i reckon you would get some silly VE numbers

I would monitor your plugs and if you are running a little rich now then take say 5 points of entire VE table for that cylinder, check next cylinder plug and adjust, go for ride and check

Thanks
Mirrmu