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  #6381  
Old 08-06-2014 | 08:42 PM
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WB
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Just received my new pv1 and it is supposed to have a pre configured map form them installed on it to match my mods. My question is, after the initial plug in and marring the unit where do I find the tune they loaded for me? Sorry for the ignorance on this matter but I don't want to make the wrong move.

Update... I went to "Custom Maps and there was one may loaded. I flashed the ecm with this map and it runs real good. Is this the map they loaded for my setup?
 
  #6382  
Old 08-06-2014 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by WB
Just received my new pv1 and it is supposed to have a pre configured map form them installed on it to match my mods. My question is, after the initial plug in and marring the unit where do I find the tune they loaded for me? Sorry for the ignorance on this matter but I don't want to make the wrong move.

Update... I went to "Custom Maps and there was one may loaded. I flashed the ecm with this map and it runs real good. Is this the map they loaded for my setup?
That's It.
 
  #6383  
Old 08-06-2014 | 10:32 PM
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Thanks...
 
  #6384  
Old 08-08-2014 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Dragons
I assume you mean during engine operation. Because when I stop the engine, the voltages slowly rise to 5V.
You don't listen lol. Forget about what it does when you shut it off. Like I said in an earlier post, it will hover above and below .450 set at 1.00. Put the bike back to OEM equipment and start over. first it was carbon build up. Then it was the exhaust. Then it was the PV changing things. Now you're hung up on sensors. Take it to a tuner and pay the cash and be done with it. Or do your due diligence and find the problem. I'll go out on a limb and say it's NOT the PV. I still think it's an exhaust issue, but I've said that from the start. Testing the sensors is easy. just put the stock crap back on and start from there. All I hear you doing is guessing and never having a measurable result. Its not the PV. You haave nothing to measure the VE's, but you keep saying PV changed them, incorrectly. How do you know PV hasn't changed them to where they need to be? A guess doesn't fly. You need to stop guessing and start from a known good starting point. Good luck.
 
  #6385  
Old 08-08-2014 | 12:16 AM
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stailjim61
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Originally Posted by WB
Just received my new pv1 and it is supposed to have a pre configured map form them installed on it to match my mods. My question is, after the initial plug in and marring the unit where do I find the tune they loaded for me? Sorry for the ignorance on this matter but I don't want to make the wrong move.

Update... I went to "Custom Maps and there was one may loaded. I flashed the ecm with this map and it runs real good. Is this the map they loaded for my setup?
yes but you still need to make some tune runs. That cal is a best, close enough, get started tuning map.
 
  #6386  
Old 08-08-2014 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by stailjim61
You don't listen lol. Forget about what it does when you shut it off. Like I said in an earlier post, it will hover above and below .450 set at 1.00. Put the bike back to OEM equipment and start over. first it was carbon build up. Then it was the exhaust. Then it was the PV changing things. Now you're hung up on sensors. Take it to a tuner and pay the cash and be done with it. Or do your due diligence and find the problem. I'll go out on a limb and say it's NOT the PV. I still think it's an exhaust issue, but I've said that from the start. Testing the sensors is easy. just put the stock crap back on and start from there. All I hear you doing is guessing and never having a measurable result. Its not the PV. You haave nothing to measure the VE's, but you keep saying PV changed them, incorrectly. How do you know PV hasn't changed them to where they need to be? A guess doesn't fly. You need to stop guessing and start from a known good starting point. Good luck.
Ok, here are the facts...

the PV, taking data from the O2 sensors on my bike, computes that it is necessary to lean out my VE tables LEANER THAN THE FACTORY STOCK HD TUNE EVEN THOUGH I HAVE HIGH FLOW INTAKE AND EXHAUST. THIS DOES NOT MAKE ANY SENSE, IN ANY WORLD, IN ANY UNIVERSE. IT IS WRONG, PERIOD, END OF DISCUSSION.My current setup flows much more air than stock...that means it requires much more fuel than stock. But the PV doesn't seem to think so. IT IS WRONG. I'm not guessing, I know.

There is nothing wrong with my exhaust, I've gotten the same results using one exhaust, then another, and then again going back to the original exhaust. ALL THE SAME RESULTS. Everything is installed correctly and has no leaks. I don't know what you mean specifically when you say you've thought all along it was an exhaust issue.

SO...this means one of two things. ONE...my O2 sensors are bad. TWO...the PV, for whatever reason, is unable, possibly to a programming or design limitation, to accurately measure the VEs on MY setup. The VE readings it is currently getting are incorrect. Going back to stock is a waste of time. I need it to work properly in my current configuration, not stock. If I replace my O2 sensors and I get the same results, then I know that it is a design limitation with the PV.

And as far as going to a "professional" dyno....we saw some results of that posted a few pages back and I will definitely not pay someone upwards of $500 just to add a little fuel near WOT. I can do that.

Why you gotta break my *****?
 
  #6387  
Old 08-08-2014 | 08:00 AM
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can someone please summerize how to data log again with the PV so i can send info to dynojet.. step by step and what file to send. ty.
 
  #6388  
Old 08-08-2014 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by papifun
can someone please summerize how to data log again with the PV so i can send info to dynojet.. step by step and what file to send. ty.
1) Download Log Tuner manual from Dyno Jet.
2) Or, Use Search this thread/ advanced , Use keywords.
3) Or, just go to page 540, I found that in less than 2 minutes.
4) Or, Use Power Vision datalog signals/ Auto (Narrow Band), It's automatically set to Log all the necessary signals.
5) The file you send will be the one you Get from the PV and save in your log file folder on your PC. Note: Auto may save as a .pvv file. I only used that once and my memory ain't so good no more.
 

Last edited by Smokey Stover; 08-08-2014 at 09:17 AM.
  #6389  
Old 08-08-2014 | 09:46 AM
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I don't know Red, The same model bike with the same mods will often produce different results. You also went to a 30 tooth pulley, That may have an effect. 10 - 15% isn't really that much. Like I've said before, Just run a few more AT's until changes settle down to less than 5% and see how it runs. You can still go with a slightly rich AFR. Then use LT to work out the knocks ( if any) You've seen the results AT can do compared to a Dyno Tuned motor. Trust the software to do it's thing.( Just tryin to help )
 
  #6390  
Old 08-08-2014 | 04:51 PM
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stailjim61
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Originally Posted by Red Dragons
Ok, here are the facts...

the PV, taking data from the O2 sensors on my bike, computes that it is necessary to lean out my VE tables LEANER THAN THE FACTORY STOCK HD TUNE EVEN THOUGH I HAVE HIGH FLOW INTAKE AND EXHAUST. THIS DOES NOT MAKE ANY SENSE, IN ANY WORLD, IN ANY UNIVERSE. IT IS WRONG, PERIOD, END OF DISCUSSION.

You have a Stage 1....whats your point? Ask any knowledgeable mech , if they're honest, they will tell you a Stage 1 is a waste of money, if that's all you do. The stage 1 doesn't flow any more than a stock air filter. The bottleneck is in the throttle body. Run NO air filter and the result is the same. You will only get X amount past that throttle body......regardless of what someone sold you for an air filter. You are believing hype from marketers.

My current setup flows much more air than stock

Read previous remark. Just for shts and grins, what S1 set up are you running and exactly how much more flow are you stating it has over the OEM setup? We won't even talk about valve sizes, heads, or throttle bodies. Just curious what you're basing "much more air than stock" on.

...that means it requires much more fuel than stock. But the PV doesn't seem to think so. IT IS WRONG. I'm not guessing, I know.

Wheres the proof...no guessing...teach us all grasshopper


There is nothing wrong with my exhaust, I've gotten the same results using one exhaust, then another, and then again going back to the original exhaust. ALL THE SAME RESULTS. Everything is installed correctly and has no leaks. I don't know what you mean specifically when you say you've thought all along it was an exhaust issue.

SO...this means one of two things. ONE...my O2 sensors are bad.

test them....its takes minutes to get it done

TWO...the PV, for whatever reason, is unable, possibly to a programming or design limitation, to accurately measure the VEs on MY setup.

Are you saying the PV can't tune a Stage 1 bike? Come on....you don't really believe that, or do you?

The VE readings it is currently getting are incorrect.

And what proof do you have that the VE's are incorrect?

Going back to stock is a waste of time. I need it to work properly in my current configuration, not stock. If I replace my O2 sensors and I get the same results, then I know that it is a design limitation with the PV.

It's not a design limitation with the PV on a Stage 1 bike. PERIOD! Now, there may be a possibility that the PV itself is malfuntioning. Take it up with the vendor that sold it to you. If they're reputable they will send you out another unit if they determine yours is bad. have you done that yet?

And as far as going to a "professional" dyno....we saw some results of that posted a few pages back and I will definitely not pay someone upwards of $500 just to add a little fuel near WOT. I can do that.

there was also a post a few pages back where someone brought their bike into a dyno guy and the VE's were less than 1% off. Geez, on any given day any of our VE's will change a couple of percent. That post pretty much validates the efficincy of the PV.

You can take a WAG and do it yourself. It's your engine. If a WAG is sufficient, have at it.

Why you gotta break my *****?
Nobody is breaking your *****. You just keep bouncing from one guess to another. That will never get your problem straightened out. You have two options, that I see. One, run open loop because you THINK that's where your VE's should be. And, closed loop doesn't work on your Stage 1 bike. Or, you can find out what the problem really is. If it's sensors, change them. If it's a reversion problem, live with it. Or manually adjust the VE's and run open loop in that area. If it's the PV not functioning, send it back to the vendor for testing.

i don't think you're getting your head around all this tuning stuff, which is why I recommended starting from scratch. But, if you have it all figured out there's not much more we can help you with. Best of luck. I hope you get if squared away. These are only machines and there's usually an answer to be found if approached with an open mind and a willingness to learn.

I won't break your ***** anymore. Best of luck!
 


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