What is the difference between capping and scaling when finished with an auto tune session? On the dynojet video it just says to cap them but never explains the difference and when I search it under thread tools the only responses that I find are saying that you should cap them. I just got this thing and I am loving it for the simplicity. Now I just need to get used to the tuning software and the way the modifications work.

 

Hey nice thanks for sharing the graph . Its gives me very useful information

 

Still continues studying all the features of power vision, now I have some confuses between auto tune and log turner. When I have active the auto tune feature and , after scan the situation of OEM O2 sensor and I did used the “export learn” feature on Power vision. So, then just a question arise is : Does the exported map is already corrected by Power Vision or I have to transfer that file to computer and using Log Turner Program to correct it with .pvv (the file record from PV during the Auto tune process).

 

I have a 2013 RG that no matter what I have done I still get knock count on my front cylinder. I have retarded the timing in those "troubled" cells 20 degrees or more. I sill get (in 6th gear) knock count in front cylinder. My log files ALWAYS show the same trouble cells. This always seems to happen over 220 degrees on Engine temp. Below that it I haven't seen any knock.

The fuel map has been Auto tuned more times than I can count.

MAP Kpa is 60-90 Range
RMP 2700-3100
Engine Temp 220+

What I have tried.

*Auto tune, Auto tune, Auto tune.
*Retarded cells in Spark Advance (Front Cyl) table in troubled cells (20 degrees or more)
*Set VE table Front Cyl manually by bumping those same cells
*Increased Acceleration Enrichment by 30% from 234-320 Degrees

I would think that if it were a timing thing I would have had a huge difference in the number of knocks prior to retarded timing in the troubled cells.. The fact is that the knock count really hasn't changed much with all of the timing adjustments.

Mods to the bike have been gutted CAT and DNA megaphone slip-ons. AF is stock. Mobile 1 oil and redline in the trans.

I am baffled and lost.

Attached is my tune and my log file. Any help would be great!

 

Simplify. Start over. Go to Dynojet map library on PV. Load the closest map file for your engine build to your bike. DON'T modify the spark tables further. Run 3 - 20min autotune sessions of varied operation in different gears with each session tuning the previous tuning file.

You'll be good to go. If you have slight knock (less than 1 degree), ignore them.

 

Yes - the exported map is already corrected by the PowerVision - so once you are done with the auto tune session, "export learned" as a new map to one of the slots, then load that map to the ECU and you should be good to go!

 

Thank adm, so on the other hand, what is the point of data log and log turner program if auto tune already do the perfect map.

 

Log tuner and data logger have the greatest value with more extensive builds that don't have a "close" ecu library map to start with. Your build doesn't sound too exotic so just tweaking a close map from the library with a few autotune runs should work great.

 

fcheshir,

Sounds like you the "phantom" knocks that some get with the PV. Retarding 20 degrees is A LOT!. If that is not taking care of the problem, I would say that is not the problem if there is even a problem. When retarding the timing that much you should be able to feel a loss in power 'sluggish'? One other thing to think about, you should actually be retarding at about 28deg. because I think when the ECU senses a knock it will retard automatically and this is in addition to the 20 you have put in there. (I am not for sure on the 8deg. but I know it retards upon knock events)

The concerning part is the it happens at a certain temperature. Which fits the real knock profile.

1. Can you actually hear it knocking? It sounds like ball bearings in the cylinder boars, or like plates breaking, there is no mistake if it is audible.
2. Have you checked your plugs? I know many on here will tell you, you can't tell anything with plugs on these new technology motors. I would beg to differ. Your plugs should be nice and "marshmellow'ie" and or new looking. Do the insulators have little silver ***** on them, (almost likes like little flakes of sand, sign of true knocking, the ***** are aluminium from the combustion chamber).

If your plugs are pretty, and you don't actually hear any knocking physically, you may not have issues at all, or may be a bad gas issue. Have you tried getting some "white" pump gas, or even some fresh gas from a Racing outlet?

I had the same issue as you last year... (not to freak you out) but my issue was a real one, but there were many more indicators that things were not right.

Once my temps got to 235 I would get knocking events. If the temps got over 280 the knocking was so bad I thought the bike was going to come part. The signs I had were I had a black plug that would not clean up (it was the reason that I got the PV in the first place).. When I would run a tuning session, the rear cylinder would always change on the tune (I use the log tuner not auto)... So basically I would run a log session, log tuner would make changes, run another log session and log tuner would change it back to where it was before. Very frustrating and confusing. I tried everything, retard on timing per heat table, leaned out, richened it up, etc. etc.

Turned out my issue was with a bad rebuild. The rear cylinder was fitted with wrong size of oil sweeper rings. This last winter I pulled the whole thing apart and hand delivered everything to Baisleys (I am in the Portland area) where Ryan, Dan and I spent an hour looking at everything trying to figure out what the F was wrong. Dan finally noticed that the sweeper rings were the wrong size. The fix was turning the jugs 10over, new pistons,,,, the correct rings etc. NOTE the guys at Baisleys are top notch people and know there sheet. New rebuilt motor goes like a raped ape and all tuned on the PV, which took substantial changes from last year.

Long story short, If you have true knock, you should see some other signs of things going south if it is being caused by something other than bad gas. If you have those signs heed them. If you have no audible, plugs look good, you may have to ignore what you are seeing.

I personally after last years experience would put the 20deg back into it, and mess heavily with the fuel table to see what effect that is having on the knock. Basically try a 14.6 map and then try a 13.2 map..... And I would start by trying to find the best gas you can get, and use only that until you get it tuned. After the rebuild this winter and all the tuning, 99% I have no knocks at all, the only exception is when I get bad gas, which has only happened once this summer. These were not audible, would only happen in 6th on a incline and they were just blips on the screen (1's and 2's), next tank they were gone.

Hope that helps.
KC

 

So following your advice, my understand is if I can't find a close map config with the bike then I have to do with the Data logger and Log turner to get a temporary "close" map then finally with auto tune. Is this correct ?

An other quesition is with auto tune, when I finish the first auto tune and save it to PV, what tune should I have to take for the input of second auto tune ?, the original of the first auto tune (the input file for the first auto tune) or the new result file I did saved after the first AT tune...