You would be OK with a PV and a Fuel Moto base map. some people don't go any further. Think about changing the A/C too to complete a stage-1 upgrade.

I would suggest you do some autotune runs to dial in the VE's and see how its running and then re-evaluate from there. You'll probably be happy enough that you won't feel you need a dyno run, but if you don't feel it's right you still have that option.

Autotune is pretty straight forward. Just follow the instructions provided with the PV. You don't need to be a techie to run basic autotunes.

 

Just to make sure I am on the right track. When you say decrease the enleanment by 10% you are referring to the Decel Enleanment Multiplier correct? My multiplier is at 1.00, so I am assuming you are saying to take it to 0.90.

 

No, use the table just above that, Deceleration Enleanment. Highlight the whole column, decrease it all by 10%. The reason I use the table instead of he multiplier is there could come a time when you want to target specific areas of the table.

 

Jeff, I found this info on the Latus site - "250-280 is considered normal for the temp sensor, with heat management kicking in above 280, when active (EITMS)."

Just got my PV up and working, and installed a Jagg 10 row oil cooler, running AFR at 14.2 and richer. My temps today with 70 degree weather was highest at 235. Before the AFR change and oil cooler I know it was running a lot higher (alot of exhaust ticking after shut down - much less now).

 

So I have a question for for all the guys that have been working with the PV for awhile.

I am running WB sensors with AT modules and the PV. Been doing some AT runs to get my VE tables dialed in. The map I have from FM has the AFR's set to 14.6 in the whole cruising range plus some (20 - 75 MAP, 750 - 3500 RPM).

From what I have read running the AT with this setup is getting my VE's dialed in for my build at stoich. So basically I am calibrating the VE's to my specific bike.

Now comes the questions, once I have that so the VE's are not varying more than 4-5%......
1) How do I disable closed loop? I have heard 2 ways, either disable closed loop in the PV for that tune, OR, set my AFR's outside the closed loop range, so that would mean setting all the 14.6 cells so say 14.2 (I think).
2) What happens if I change the AFR's, say down to 14.2, I think from what I have read is now the VE's are calibrated, that the ECM will just do it's work and adjust the fuel to meet those AFR's based on the air volume it gets from the VE's/Engine displacement. Is that correct?
3) If #2 is correct and I adjust the AFR's to get to Open Loop, should this be done before or after I doing any timing runs? I would think before, but want to ask.

I need to disable Closed Loop because I am keeping the WB sensors in and I don't have any termination in the stock O2 cables, so I don't want it running in closed loop.

 

If you are using the autotune module with the wideband sensors these are the changes made to the tune file when you prepare for the autotune session:

(from the User Guide)
1. Sets the base fuel table to one static value, 13.0 for AFR or .89 lambda.
2. Disables EITMS/PE/Adaptive Control.
3. AE/DE are still active in the tune, but there's logic to disable or minimize learning when they're active.
So, keep in mind that the fuel table in your current tune has nothing to do with the tune when in autotune mode.

The 14.6s you are seeing was set after the VEs were dialed in; and yes, that value is the switch that turns on closed loop (in simple terms). If you set the values to 14.2 the ECM will give it 14.2 whether conditions require it or not. I suppose you could set the function to off in the tune if you wanted. I don't know what type of headpipes you have. Are you able to have both NB and WB at the same time? If you do, you don't have to disconnect the NBs. Just because they are still connected doesn't mean you will be in close loop. I thought I had read somewhere that it wasn't a good idea to keep the WBs exposed to the exhaust temps on a full time basis. Though it is kind of neat to watch the AFR in real time with the gauges.

I think that the fuel values were set at 14.6 on your map to give you bit of fuel economy with overly comprising performance. I have a preference for closed loop because of the barn door my trike is. It is a psychological thing to me to get 33-35 mpg. In my experience a good open loop was always snappier. Why do you want run open loop?

 

Guess no one ever checks their temperatures or keeps up with it since I have not gotten a reply.
Thanks
Jeff

 

That's right, I forgot about #2, I read that also, so basically the AFV's are not being populated with the WB AT.

I have an 09 headpipe, when I was running the PCV I ran AT all the time and accepted the trims periodically.

You shouldn't run them without power applied. But I don't plan on doing that, I have the AT module connected and will keep it connected. I just don't want to have AT enabled on the PV all the time.

Because I have too, I'm not removing the WB sensors to put the NB stock sensors back in. Plus I want to run AT as the weather gets warmer to let it tweek the tables. But normal running I shouldn't have to run AT all time, I would like the AFR's in the map to be used. I was just wondering what the best way to disable closed loop would be once the VE's are dialed in.

 

280s on the highway, 260s with fans secondary roads and in traffic with fans. Don't know what too high is.

 

As long as you are in autotune. I'm not sure if AFV's come into play without an O2 reading and running open loop.
It is my understanding that AFV only populates when in closed loop. If it doesn't you could always turn it off in Limits and Switches.
Thanx for this info.

The sensors are different thread sizes, at least mine are. I would say that the only time you would be running AT might be to get data for different times of the year, blends of gas, or when your S.O. is riding with you.

Happy Tuning