Power Vision Information Thread
#4931
I guess this is part of my confusion. I was under the impression that VE is a reading, not something I tune. What is the standard that the PV AT is tuning these to. I guess my basic question is what doe sit mean to "get my VE tables all good" or "have my VE tables set". Is AT doing it for me?
thanks for pointing to page 290, i'll check it out!
thanks for pointing to page 290, i'll check it out!
#4932
This is part of the problem. I am in the same boat as the poster who is new to tuning. A 100 plus read shouldnt be required for a product that is supposed to be simple to use. How about you point us in the direction of these basics? I've read the last 100 pages, and I dont see anything that is step by step.
How about a page #.
Everyone states the same as you. Yes, it would be easy to read if this thread was 10 pages, but no, its going on 500. Time would be better spent reading about fundamentals of tuning rather than reading all 490+ pages here.
The new guys here are askign for direction in the basics!
How about a page #.
Everyone states the same as you. Yes, it would be easy to read if this thread was 10 pages, but no, its going on 500. Time would be better spent reading about fundamentals of tuning rather than reading all 490+ pages here.
The new guys here are askign for direction in the basics!
For those that have a sincere desire to learn it will take time and effort. Nobody ever said you need to read 490+ pages. The last 150 or so pages pretty much sums it up. If you think you can learn the fundamentals of tuning in 10 pages you are sadly mistaken. There are books written containing the fundamentals. You can study Delphi systems. You can study the Bosch outlines. You can study this stuff for years and there will always be something new to learn.
If you're asking for direction in the basics it's all in the last 150 pages. There's enough info there to keep someone busy AND get the bike tuned AND learn the basics of what's happening.
Here's where these threads start going off course. A newbie has no clue of what's going on. He asks here. Someone gives him an answer. He doesn't understand the answer. Why? Because he didn't read the last 150 pages. Now we have the same questions being asked and the thread just goes round and round.
I think this thread has evolved enough concerning the basics. If anything we should be trying to work on advanced issues. I'm all for helping with the little I know. But some of the questions lately are getting redundant.
#4933
Nobody ever said this was going to be easy. If someone wants a quick and reliable tune it can be had by just following the steps. Both DJ and FM have a quick cheatsheet of the steps. It isn't brain surgery. Follow the steps and a quick tune can be done in an afternoon. An understanding really isn't even necessary. Just following the steps will "git er done".
For those that have a sincere desire to learn it will take time and effort. Nobody ever said you need to read 490+ pages. The last 150 or so pages pretty much sums it up. If you think you can learn the fundamentals of tuning in 10 pages you are sadly mistaken. There are books written containing the fundamentals. You can study Delphi systems. You can study the Bosch outlines. You can study this stuff for years and there will always be something new to learn.
If you're asking for direction in the basics it's all in the last 150 pages. There's enough info there to keep someone busy AND get the bike tuned AND learn the basics of what's happening.
Here's where these threads start going off course. A newbie has no clue of what's going on. He asks here. Someone gives him an answer. He doesn't understand the answer. Why? Because he didn't read the last 150 pages. Now we have the same questions being asked and the thread just goes round and round.
I think this thread has evolved enough concerning the basics. If anything we should be trying to work on advanced issues. I'm all for helping with the little I know. But some of the questions lately are getting redundant.
For those that have a sincere desire to learn it will take time and effort. Nobody ever said you need to read 490+ pages. The last 150 or so pages pretty much sums it up. If you think you can learn the fundamentals of tuning in 10 pages you are sadly mistaken. There are books written containing the fundamentals. You can study Delphi systems. You can study the Bosch outlines. You can study this stuff for years and there will always be something new to learn.
If you're asking for direction in the basics it's all in the last 150 pages. There's enough info there to keep someone busy AND get the bike tuned AND learn the basics of what's happening.
Here's where these threads start going off course. A newbie has no clue of what's going on. He asks here. Someone gives him an answer. He doesn't understand the answer. Why? Because he didn't read the last 150 pages. Now we have the same questions being asked and the thread just goes round and round.
I think this thread has evolved enough concerning the basics. If anything we should be trying to work on advanced issues. I'm all for helping with the little I know. But some of the questions lately are getting redundant.
#4934
Well - I am done, finished. I bought the PV two years ago. Admittedly, the first year was a challenge. Finally, a strategy has become clear to me. I have two AFR tables and two spark tables. From those two tables, I have four tunes that I have loaded on my power vision:
.............................. AFR ...... Spark advance
#1 Mtns ............... Rich ........ More
#2 Two Lane ....... Lean ....... More
#3 Four Lane ....... Lean ....... Less
#4 Heat ................ Rich ....... Less
I can dial up the one that I need and I will be good to go no matter flatland in the heat or cool up in the mountains. Cruising the interstates and saving a little fuel or just running down the road for a Sunday lunch at Lake Lure.
I have promised myself that I will not touch these anymore...or at least not until the summer is over.
We have all learned a lot in two years...get the VE tables right first. Be careful to not dial in too much spark. Just get it close and and go ride.
Be careful and have fun this summer.
LL
.............................. AFR ...... Spark advance
#1 Mtns ............... Rich ........ More
#2 Two Lane ....... Lean ....... More
#3 Four Lane ....... Lean ....... Less
#4 Heat ................ Rich ....... Less
I can dial up the one that I need and I will be good to go no matter flatland in the heat or cool up in the mountains. Cruising the interstates and saving a little fuel or just running down the road for a Sunday lunch at Lake Lure.
I have promised myself that I will not touch these anymore...or at least not until the summer is over.
We have all learned a lot in two years...get the VE tables right first. Be careful to not dial in too much spark. Just get it close and and go ride.
Be careful and have fun this summer.
LL
Last edited by Linville Lion; 07-03-2013 at 04:47 PM. Reason: Clarity
#4935
I got my tune almost just right from using AT (the info in this thread) and support from Jamie and the Fuel Moto guys! So Jamie suggested to add 2-3 degrees of timing in a range where I'm getting a "flat spot" so do I go to the spark advance table and just add 2 to the number in the cell I want to change? I'm messing myself up because when I compare the old and new tunes the delta shows -2.0. Thanks for the help!
#4936
I got my tune almost just right from using AT (the info in this thread) and support from Jamie and the Fuel Moto guys! So Jamie suggested to add 2-3 degrees of timing in a range where I'm getting a "flat spot" so do I go to the spark advance table and just add 2 to the number in the cell I want to change? I'm messing myself up because when I compare the old and new tunes the delta shows -2.0. Thanks for the help!
#4937
I checked my plugs today after 100 miles of running the 13.9 AFR.
The plug on the right is the rear cylinder and the left is the front cylinder. They look pretty good to me.
I decided to try the AFR at 13.8. I took the bike out for about 20 miles today and it seems to really like the AFR at 13.8. I'm gonna re check the plugs after a 100 miles or so just to make sure it's not to much fuel.
The plug on the right is the rear cylinder and the left is the front cylinder. They look pretty good to me.
I decided to try the AFR at 13.8. I took the bike out for about 20 miles today and it seems to really like the AFR at 13.8. I'm gonna re check the plugs after a 100 miles or so just to make sure it's not to much fuel.
#4938
i know i tried setting the rpm low and the pv learning rpm low and tuning at some point and i did feel an improvement in response when letting out the clutch but i tried it a little differently this time and i really like the results.
this time i made sure to get the bike nice and warm and didnt set up AT until i was on the spot in the road where i planned to do my runs, before i just did it as part of a run and i think this way is better cause i am not adding hits unrelated to my target spot.
much smoother off the line and i can let the clutch out faster without adding throttle.
plan to do it once or twice more but also add a bunch of throttle each time the moment it is not lugging.... seems to be a good way to go for those of us that like to race off the line with friends.
this time i made sure to get the bike nice and warm and didnt set up AT until i was on the spot in the road where i planned to do my runs, before i just did it as part of a run and i think this way is better cause i am not adding hits unrelated to my target spot.
much smoother off the line and i can let the clutch out faster without adding throttle.
plan to do it once or twice more but also add a bunch of throttle each time the moment it is not lugging.... seems to be a good way to go for those of us that like to race off the line with friends.
#4939
I checked my plugs today after 100 miles of running the 13.9 AFR.
The plug on the right is the rear cylinder and the left is the front cylinder. They look pretty good to me.
I decided to try the AFR at 13.8. I took the bike out for about 20 miles today and it seems to really like the AFR at 13.8. I'm gonna re check the plugs after a 100 miles or so just to make sure it's not to much fuel.
The plug on the right is the rear cylinder and the left is the front cylinder. They look pretty good to me.
I decided to try the AFR at 13.8. I took the bike out for about 20 miles today and it seems to really like the AFR at 13.8. I'm gonna re check the plugs after a 100 miles or so just to make sure it's not to much fuel.
did you adjust your spark in any way for this AFR set up ?