Wow 470 pages I just installed the PV with the autotune my question there is not an owners Manuel with this so how do I figure it out? I did the QuickStart instructions and flashed the supplied map . Now what ? What needs to be done for the autotune to get my bike running to its best abilities? I thought there would have been a Manuel for us learning disabled folks. Thanks for your forum

 

For the basics, just follow the Dynojet tutorial videos:
http://www.dynojet.com/Powervision/p...on-videos.aspx

Then come back here and start reading from page 300 or so.

When I have a question, I usually use the search thread function, but I often have questions I never would've thought about until I see someone else's post about another topic...hence my new education about timing.

 

The manuals are all available on-line. Here's a link to the DynoJet website for all the software and manuals;
http://www.dynojet.com/PowerVision/p...Power%20Vision

Lots of good reading. It will keep you busy for a while.

 

If you are in basic mode in WinPV you will not see the VE tables which are what is being modified using AutoTune. You need to be in pro mode to see all the tables.

 

I'm in the the pro now. Thanks guys now I hope I understand it. I'm not exactly computer savvy

 

It really depends on how much effort you want to put into it. One thing to remember is you'll never know if the changes are affecting hp/tq numbers. There's no way to measure that. So, the best we can do is get it smooth, peppy and ping free.

Here's an example of what I'll be doing this week to a bike. This bike does alot of highway time so I'll bump the timing 3* from 2000 - 4000 RPM's and from 30 kPa to 70 kPa. Then data log it.

I'll merge a .pvv with the log and let log Tuner tell me where it reduced timing.

Then I'll bump the cells that DIDN'T get reduced by another 2*. Rinse and repeat the merge. Bump the cells that didn't get reduced by another 2*. Datalog it again. Rinse and repeat.

When I'm finished I will have advanced that entire region of cells to the point that timing is right on the verge of pinging. Once that happens I will reduce the entire region 2* or 3* for a safety margin.

Then I'll go out and ride and see how it feels. Do I pick up any vibrations at certain RPM's and kPa areas. Do the mirrors start to blur out on me at certain RPM's and kPa areas? If so, I'll take out 1* in that area of cells. Rinse and repeat until it feels smooth.

Then for ***** and grins you can drop the entire region of cells down another degree and see how it feels. And then again another degree and see how it feels. Enough of this back and forth with the table and you'll eventually settle in on "this feels the best", and let it be.

The safety margin goes something like this, in my way of thinking.

1) I can't measure any hp/tq gains.

2) I know (because I worked an area) this is where it will become prone to pinging.

3) I do know holes in my pistons is never a good thing.

4) I do know I won't hear every audible ping.

5) I do know a tank of crap gas will probably ping.

6) I know for sure, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Timing is, for the mostpart, a guess based on how the bike feels. Whether the bike is stock or a simple Stage 2, it will only put out so much in the way of hp/tq numbers. Timing changes won't make it magically start smoking tires. Like I said, the best we can hope for is a nice smooth running, peppy bike, that doesn't ping.

In most cases you won't find any knock events in the 30 and 40 kPa areas. Once you start playing around you'll start to see a few in the 50 kPa area. But most will rear their ugly head from 60 kPa and up.

I would try something similar to what I'll be doing and see how it works out. Once you get the cruise area nice and smooth do some pretty heavy roll ons, hitting 70 and 80 kPa and see what it picks up.

It's trial and error mostly. It's simple to dial in the VE's in 5 AT runs. Timing may take another 20+ datalog runs to figure out. It all depends on how much time someone wants to put into it. If it runs smooth and you're happy with it, and it doesn't ping, leave it alone and ride. If you want to tinker then try what I explained above and see if you get a different result.

Remember this though, LT is only taking out enough timing for what happened at that exact moment and under those exact conditions. It can't magically project a bad tank of gas, temp increases, or environmental factors that MAY make it ping in the future. This is why a safety margin is the safe and smart thing to do.

 

The steps are listed and very easy. If you're a little unsure just do a quick 5 minute run the first time to get the steps nailed down. You really don't even need to leave the driveway. Do a quick AT of the idle area and make sure you're not missing a step. Reflash that tune. Make a cheat sheet and stick it in your pocket. Then go out for a few hours and make 3 or 4 good runs.

 

Now that I am in pro mode in the win PV i see the ve table changes. The graph in the lower right hand corner looks like sharp peak mountains. Should it be smoother/softer. I noticed I can click highlighting all the cells and the is a tab that says smooth. Do use that to smooth the sharp peaks?

 

Great collection of information in this thread. Picked up the Powervision a little over a week ago. Bike is running very well after AT runs. And I've been able to get rid of most of the decel pop. Still reading and rereading thru all this.

Question, What does the abbreviation CDE refer to ?

 

Pontiac....dont worry about the sharp peaks. if you go and smooth the table you will be undoing what your AT run has corrected. It made thoes peaks in certain ares because it wants that amount of fuel in thoes areas. if you smooth it will change what the AT has corrected and will make the process of getting your VE dialed in take longer. As was stated many times by many people...do you want a good running bike or a pretty graph?....My 2 cents