Power Vision Information Thread
#4651
06-12-2013, 01:02 AM
I've not really seen AT runs fix decel popping. Advancing timing in the decel areas of my map worked for me. If that doesn't work you can try adding some fuel to decel areas. Popping can usually be tuned out but with open pipes you will almost always get an occasional pop here or there.
I'm no expert so I will stand corrected, but here is how I understand it:
AT wont necessarily fix decel popping. By chance it might but don't expect it to. If you are using AT basic (narrowband sensors) it sets the AFR table at about 14.6 for the AT process. So it is possible to have decel popping when running AT and have no decel popping when running normally. Only seek to make changes if you have decel popping when NOT running AT. Learn to use WinPV on the computer. There are two ways to address decel popping on WinPV, either decrease the "decel enleanment" value for all the normal operating temps, or decrease the AFR values on the left side of the table (except the idle rpm range). If you have decel popping at all or most rpm ranges then try adjusting the decel enleanment first. If you have decel popping just in a small rpm range, then adjust the left side of the AFR table for the affected rpm ranges first.
If you don't want to learn WInPV, then you can increase the fuel across the whole decel range using quick tune. Go into quick tune, then to fuel tab, then increase fuel % in the decel box. Just try it in 5% increments. I've never done this, but INCREaSING this should be the same as DECrEaSiNG the Stoich value in the left side of the AFR table.
Finally, increasing fuel (richer) should have a better chance of fixing the decel popping, but it is possible that making it leaner will also fix it. Just make adjustments of 5-10% at a time.
AT wont necessarily fix decel popping. By chance it might but don't expect it to. If you are using AT basic (narrowband sensors) it sets the AFR table at about 14.6 for the AT process. So it is possible to have decel popping when running AT and have no decel popping when running normally. Only seek to make changes if you have decel popping when NOT running AT. Learn to use WinPV on the computer. There are two ways to address decel popping on WinPV, either decrease the "decel enleanment" value for all the normal operating temps, or decrease the AFR values on the left side of the table (except the idle rpm range). If you have decel popping at all or most rpm ranges then try adjusting the decel enleanment first. If you have decel popping just in a small rpm range, then adjust the left side of the AFR table for the affected rpm ranges first.
If you don't want to learn WInPV, then you can increase the fuel across the whole decel range using quick tune. Go into quick tune, then to fuel tab, then increase fuel % in the decel box. Just try it in 5% increments. I've never done this, but INCREaSING this should be the same as DECrEaSiNG the Stoich value in the left side of the AFR table.
Finally, increasing fuel (richer) should have a better chance of fixing the decel popping, but it is possible that making it leaner will also fix it. Just make adjustments of 5-10% at a time.
I ended up emailing a copy of my map to Dynojet and asking for help. They sent me back a map with the timing advanced in the 15, 20, and 30 KPa columns of the spark tables. Problem solved (mostly). I still get an occasional pop between 1st and 2nd gear, but it's rare.
I recommend contacting Dynojet support for help with your popping. Their support is pretty awesome. They updated my map 3 times until the popping was gone.
#4652
06-12-2013, 08:09 AM
Now for the scary part (for me). I'm a little nervous about messing with timing. My calc shows that less than 1* of timing will be removed across the 3K band at 80, 90, and 95 KPa (screen shot attached).
Is that typical? Am I heading in the right direction? (Yes, I need reassurance.
)
#4653
06-12-2013, 09:34 AM
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BC I'm sure about my logs, the data I collect with the guages I enabled (all of em except trip2 lol) is twice as much as collected or needed by The AT/start log button. Those logs are also in a much better order as far as the columns go.Thats why I was confused. I know it pulls 4 deg. sets AFR to 14.6 and disables some features. I don't think the 1* made much difference but I had also richend up my AFR which I'm sure my bike likes. So my plan for this evenings ride (weather permitting) is to take off the 1*, run AT on the way out, flash it and then do a log of the newest tune on the way back. I'll check that log for knock and compare that tune to previous version. If it's all good I'll put the PV in its box a while and enjoy my ride knowing I did it myself (with some help from y'all)...I would still like a little smother take off at ET's just below norm operating temp. once its up there its smoother but could be better.I'll be looking in from time to time for tips on that. I also accept I may never get quite the same feel I had with the V&H Throttle Pak, and the 2 into 1 header. I miss cables and carbs,But I love my Streetglide. Thanks again
Smokey
Smokey
I have seen post from people saying there was ghost knock retard events. Maybe that is what your seeing? Dont know.
#4654
06-12-2013, 03:58 PM
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Yea I thought I had a pretty good grip on things, But thats when they'll throw ya for a loop lol. So today I recreated the events, only first I enabled AT and logged my way down to Jims H-D. Did an export,save,flashed the tune(a few 4% VE changes).Then rode home in normal mode with my data logs on. Same result my log =6,000 lines of data, 0 knock Front and Rear. The AT log 6,000 lines of data had just over 400 knock events in the Front a lot less in the Rear ranging from 0.5 to 8!, OK Im stumpped, called FM and they said hmmm thats odd. send us a copy of your tune and the logs, So now Im eagerly awaiting their reply and hopefully they'll tweak my tune and Im good to go.
#4655
06-13-2013, 06:23 AM
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Yea I thought I had a pretty good grip on things, But thats when they'll throw ya for a loop lol. So today I recreated the events, only first I enabled AT and logged my way down to Jims H-D. Did an export,save,flashed the tune(a few 4% VE changes).Then rode home in normal mode with my data logs on. Same result my log =6,000 lines of data, 0 knock Front and Rear. The AT log 6,000 lines of data had just over 400 knock events in the Front a lot less in the Rear ranging from 0.5 to 8!, OK Im stumpped, called FM and they said hmmm thats odd. send us a copy of your tune and the logs, So now Im eagerly awaiting their reply and hopefully they'll tweak my tune and Im good to go.
#4656
06-13-2013, 08:33 AM
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I got my bike dyno tuned today. The engine and exhaust mods were done a few weeks ago and I've been doing my best to learn this power vision and get the most out if it.
2013 dyna switchback 103" + Se204 cams + D&D Fatcat full exhaust + power vision tuner with Dynojet supplied base map + autotune runs and tweaking = 90 hp and 142nm
Same as above except using original HD base tune and 4 hours in the hands of a top dyno tuner = 97hp and 156nm
Lesson: power vision tuner took me a long way, but still worth getting it done properly. Also learnt that the Dynojet base tune had VERY aggressive timing and was running too lean through mid range rpm and throttle. Bike runs 5-10C cooler now.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/9032522956/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/9032522956/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/95566272@N06/, on Flickr
2013 dyna switchback 103" + Se204 cams + D&D Fatcat full exhaust + power vision tuner with Dynojet supplied base map + autotune runs and tweaking = 90 hp and 142nm
Same as above except using original HD base tune and 4 hours in the hands of a top dyno tuner = 97hp and 156nm
Lesson: power vision tuner took me a long way, but still worth getting it done properly. Also learnt that the Dynojet base tune had VERY aggressive timing and was running too lean through mid range rpm and throttle. Bike runs 5-10C cooler now.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/9032522956/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/9032522956/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/95566272@N06/, on Flickr
#4657
06-13-2013, 12:35 PM
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#4658
06-13-2013, 01:50 PM
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O2 sensors
I have a2010 triglide I'm installing 2009 head pipes my PV1 tuner and autotune pro on their way . Question ? What do I do with the stock o2 sensor wires as I no longer will have those bungs on the 09 pipes ? This question has been asked several places yet still haven't seen the answer. I was told by fuel too I didn't need the stock any more I just forgot to ask what to do with the wiring
#4659
06-13-2013, 02:09 PM
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No. It will only display what the ECM sees. The closest you can get for temp is the front jug sensor.
I have a2010 triglide I'm installing 2009 head pipes my PV1 tuner and autotune pro on their way . Question ? What do I do with the stock o2 sensor wires as I no longer will have those bungs on the 09 pipes ? This question has been asked several places yet still haven't seen the answer. I was told by fuel too I didn't need the stock any more I just forgot to ask what to do with the wiring
Unplug them under the side cover. Not sure how moisture might affect the connectors, so just throw a plastic bag over the connectors with a rubber band to protect them.
Last edited by shooter5074; 06-13-2013 at 02:12 PM.
#4660
06-13-2013, 03:06 PM
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