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  #4641  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:02 AM
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I just got my PV this weekend and started doing my AT runs. I'm on page 181 of this thread so forgive me if this has been answered before, but I was wondering if there is any tricks or tips on how to hit the most cells?
 
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  #4642  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:32 AM
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Default Spark Adjustment snafu

I had an odd thing happen last night. Took my fiance' for a sunset ride down the beaches. Beautiful evening cooler temps,not much traffic. I was logging my latest tune. got to the end of beach, stopped a while,Bike was running great, purring like a happy tiger. But I can't leave well enough alone. Decided to run AT on the way back, with the extra weight and some bridges I wanted to get some of the lower RPM/higher Kpa cells. I logged this also. OK so far. Got home exported learned, saved tune but did not flash,just wanted to compare previous tune. there were some 3%-4% and one 7% VE cells, ok no prob. I looked at first log for Knock,had 0-F/R, Great. then looked at second log, the AT one, and there were about 40 knock events from 0.5-2.0 Scattered around 6k lines of data. I wondered why there would be knock in AT and not my tune, maybe the leaner AFR in AT? But thats what I was looking for, to weed out the cells that may be too advanced after adding 1* to Jamies Spark Tables. So I loaded the saved AT tune file into WinPV, checked the VE and Spark boxes,saved selected values,Opened Log Tune, loaded the .pvv file, then the .csv log file, hit calc tune and had some kind of warning/error box pop up, it said something like VE and/or other files missing or corrupt. wth, they looked ok individually,retried every step from get tune,get log from the PV, resaved them,tried again same result. I also tried it with the first log I made and it worked but said values match no changes made( of course). So should I NOT use AT log files for spark adjustment or did I screw something up? I deleted all the logs and value files, I sure dont want corrupted data.I will try again asap. Sorry I can't even make a short story short. Thanks for your patience and taking the time to help.

Smokey
 
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokey Stover
I had an odd thing happen last night. Took my fiance' for a sunset ride down the beaches. Beautiful evening cooler temps,not much traffic. I was logging my latest tune. got to the end of beach, stopped a while,Bike was running great, purring like a happy tiger. But I can't leave well enough alone. Decided to run AT on the way back, with the extra weight and some bridges I wanted to get some of the lower RPM/higher Kpa cells. I logged this also. OK so far. Got home exported learned, saved tune but did not flash,just wanted to compare previous tune. there were some 3%-4% and one 7% VE cells, ok no prob. I looked at first log for Knock,had 0-F/R, Great. then looked at second log, the AT one, and there were about 40 knock events from 0.5-2.0 Scattered around 6k lines of data. I wondered why there would be knock in AT and not my tune, maybe the leaner AFR in AT? But thats what I was looking for, to weed out the cells that may be too advanced after adding 1* to Jamies Spark Tables. So I loaded the saved AT tune file into WinPV, checked the VE and Spark boxes,saved selected values,Opened Log Tune, loaded the .pvv file, then the .csv log file, hit calc tune and had some kind of warning/error box pop up, it said something like VE and/or other files missing or corrupt. wth, they looked ok individually,retried every step from get tune,get log from the PV, resaved them,tried again same result. I also tried it with the first log I made and it worked but said values match no changes made( of course). So should I NOT use AT log files for spark adjustment or did I screw something up? I deleted all the logs and value files, I sure dont want corrupted data.I will try again asap. Sorry I can't even make a short story short. Thanks for your patience and taking the time to help.

Smokey
Smokey....dont sweat that small knock retard. But it sounds like you got your logs mixed up. When running AT it will automaticly remove 4 deg. of timing while running the auto tune. So i dont see how your AT log could have had knock retard events but just a log without AT would not. Like i said sounds like you have them backwards. The reason you probably have the small amount of knock retard is like we said....fuelmotos timing is agressive. You were probably on the fence of getting knock events. Then you added 1 deg.....now that is why you are seeing a few here or there.

The corrupt data? i have never used log tuner. You will have to get an answer from some one else on that. many here like it and use it but i dont. If you did not hear any knock or pings i would say you are ok with the small amount being pulled. The power vision maps ( most i have seen ) are set up to back timing off up to 8deg. But i am curious..... when you advanced your timing 1 deg, did it make a noticable differance? If not i would put it back where it was and ride on happy.
 
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:49 PM
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BC I'm sure about my logs, the data I collect with the guages I enabled (all of em except trip2 lol) is twice as much as collected or needed by The AT/start log button. Those logs are also in a much better order as far as the columns go.Thats why I was confused. I know it pulls 4 deg. sets AFR to 14.6 and disables some features. I don't think the 1* made much difference but I had also richend up my AFR which I'm sure my bike likes. So my plan for this evenings ride (weather permitting) is to take off the 1*, run AT on the way out, flash it and then do a log of the newest tune on the way back. I'll check that log for knock and compare that tune to previous version. If it's all good I'll put the PV in its box a while and enjoy my ride knowing I did it myself (with some help from y'all)...I would still like a little smother take off at ET's just below norm operating temp. once its up there its smoother but could be better.I'll be looking in from time to time for tips on that. I also accept I may never get quite the same feel I had with the V&H Throttle Pak, and the 2 into 1 header. I miss cables and carbs,But I love my Streetglide. Thanks again
Smokey
 
  #4645  
Old 06-11-2013, 05:03 PM
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AT has me to where it won't idle. Waited a few minutes for it to get warm, and bike actually stumbled when I took off. Has never even hinted at that before AT. Any suggestions ? Thanks, Kranky.
 
  #4646  
Old 06-11-2013, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tulljt
I just got my PV this weekend and started doing my AT runs. I'm on page 181 of this thread so forgive me if this has been answered before, but I was wondering if there is any tricks or tips on how to hit the most cells?
If you want to get a full tune in all parts of the map you need to do a few runs of an hour each. I suggest focussing on the low rpm (top rows) of the table. My bike is almost impossible to stall when taking off, and I can go wide open throttle at 1200 rpm without clunking, pinging, popping, spluttering or stalling. I regularly ride around in the sub 2000 rpm range now, whereas before it felt "uncomfortable".

Here's some tips to filling the top right corner of the table:
- use WinPV to temporarily lower your idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loading oil pressure. Change it back to 950-1050 after tuning. This makes it a lot easier to tune for "standing start take off".
- "learn" the table from left to right. Don't try and tune the 1125 rpm 100% throttle square first.
- find a large empty shopping centre car park and do heaps of stop-start runs, and not accelerating until you have the clutch fully released. In first and second gear. Yes, you will get some clunking at the start and it might stall a few times but the short term pain is worth it.
- find a quiet open road and ride along in a tall gear (4th, 5th, 6th) at 1500 rpm. Open the throttle quickly to 10% and hold it there while the bike accelerates. Then repeat at 20% throttle. Then repeat at 30% throttle, etc. continue until you get to 100% throttle. The aim is to get hits in a vertical column, not a horizontal row. This makes the process much quicker.
- then repeat the whole step above but starting from 1250 rpm. Then from 1100 rpm.

Here is one of my recent tables (ve hits) after a 1 hour session. Note the hits in the top right:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/95566272@N06/, on Flickr
 
  #4647  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Darke_peak
If you want to get a full tune in all parts of the map you need to do a few runs of an hour each. I suggest focussing on the low rpm (top rows) of the table. My bike is almost impossible to stall when taking off, and I can go wide open throttle at 1200 rpm without clunking, pinging, popping, spluttering or stalling. I regularly ride around in the sub 2000 rpm range now, whereas before it felt "uncomfortable".

Here's some tips to filling the top right corner of the table:
- use WinPV to temporarily lower your idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loading oil pressure. Change it back to 950-1050 after tuning. This makes it a lot easier to tune for "standing start take off".
- "learn" the table from left to right. Don't try and tune the 1125 rpm 100% throttle square first.
- find a large empty shopping centre car park and do heaps of stop-start runs, and not accelerating until you have the clutch fully released. In first and second gear. Yes, you will get some clunking at the start and it might stall a few times but the short term pain is worth it.
- find a quiet open road and ride along in a tall gear (4th, 5th, 6th) at 1500 rpm. Open the throttle quickly to 10% and hold it there while the bike accelerates. Then repeat at 20% throttle. Then repeat at 30% throttle, etc. continue until you get to 100% throttle. The aim is to get hits in a vertical column, not a horizontal row. This makes the process much quicker.
- then repeat the whole step above but starting from 1250 rpm. Then from 1100 rpm.

Here is one of my recent tables (ve hits) after a 1 hour session. Note the hits in the top right:


Autotune by Darke Peak, on Flickr


Hey Dark peak , we are running a similar setup except for cam . How about a copy of your map to tweak on? . marknett@centurylink.net
 
  #4648  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by marknett
Hey Dark peak , we are running a similar setup except for cam . How about a copy of your map to tweak on? . marknett@centurylink.net
I'll send it through to you but i believe the cam is probably more critical than the exhaust and AC. I got the base tune from Dynojet. I just emailed them and told them what I had fitted and within 2 working days (including USA -Australia time difference) I had a base tune from them to suit my configuration.

If your cam is standard but you have a full 2-1 exhaust + stage 1 AC then you would be better off using the pre configured tune in the PV to suit.
 
  #4649  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Watchfuliz
I understand your learning woes. No big deal though as you play around with Log Tuner (LT) it is really pretty straight forward. You will need to save a value file for the map you are going to adjust which should be the map you data logged during your ride. You save those values by putting a check in the box next to the value you are saving and going to the "File" and save selected values. It should put it in the Value files folder you created when you installed the software. You have to name the file when you save it and I just call it "Start". Then you open Log Tuner and using it open the "start" pvv file. Then open all the logs you made while riding using your current map with Log Tuner. Create Tune and save. This puts a new pvv file in the pvv folder, which I name "end". Then exit out of Log tuner and reopen your map you were using to make the Logs and pvv files in WinPV. Go to File and "Load All Values" and select the "End.pvv" file. Then you have to save the new map you just made. I name it "whatever.LT#". In my case they are "BillyV3LT5". That stands for MeVersion3LogTuner#5. That way I can keep up with which version map and which log tuner files I used. I also save my Data Logs in separate folders in the logs folder which I name consecutively to correspond with the new map I will be making, hence folder #5 goes with LT #5. I hope that helps you out some.

Oh and LT will only pull timing out, not put timing in. So if you get the timing pulled to a point where you don't have many knock events or even no knock events, you can go back and add 1* across the board in your timing tables and start over pulling out timing with LT to drop just those cells that don't like the 1+ degree you added while leaving the ones that do like alone. I have not added any to mine as of yet and don't know if I will. My bike is running really good right now and my logs are looking really good as well. I still have some minor Knock events that I am using LT on, but I have saved my maps so if I go too far and start to lose performance I can always back up a couple of steps. I always keep one of the Maps the bike likes in slot 6 as a backup I can switch back to if need be. I try to always put the map I am currently running in slot 1. To do this you have to save the new map you create to that slot and overwrite the map that is in that slot which means if you want to keep that map for later use on the pv itself you have to first get it from the pv slot 1 with winpv, then save it back to the pv in a different slot #6 in my case if it is a good map. Then save to new map I just created using LT back to the pv slot 1. Now I can load slot 1 to the ecm and I will have the map I am going to run in slot 1.......LOL.


Your post just answered every one of my questions regarding Log Tuner and timing. The instructions on fuelmoto's page left a lot out, assuming I guess that we already knew most of this stuff.

I did a bunch of auto tuning over the weekend and had one run that was +9%, but the rest were all < 3%, so I decided to take the leap and start messing with spark. After reading your post, the light went off in my head. I made (4) 15-20 logs of my current map today during my commute and just ran them through LT. Turns out I had some knock events in the front cylinder.

Now for the scary part (for me). I'm a little nervous about messing with timing. My calc shows that less than 1* of timing will be removed across the 3K band at 80, 90, and 95 KPa (screen shot attached).

Is that typical? Am I heading in the right direction? (Yes, I need reassurance.)
 
Attached Thumbnails Power Vision Information Thread-front-spark-delta-130611.jpg  

Last edited by SquidHead; 06-11-2013 at 10:16 PM.
  #4650  
Old 06-11-2013, 09:40 PM
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I could really use some help gettin' started w/ Log Tuner.
First, I have a '12 Fat Bob...
So, am I AFR or Lambda? I've read that non TBW bikes are AFR. But I don't see any AFR settings on my PV's log config page. (below)
I'm prolly not understanding what the acronyms mean.

I am not seeing Warmup AFR (or Lambda), Acceleration Enrichment, or Desired AFR/Lambda.
And the Log Tuner S/W will not create a tune without them. I keep getting a flag that these channels are missing from my imported log.

Thanks much fellas.


And frankly, I'd give my left nut just to see a list of what the more cryptic things mean.... B+, CLI, AFF, IAT, IAC, O2V, and VSS.

Power Vision Information Thread-settings-p1.jpg

Power Vision Information Thread-settings-p2.jpg


These are the instructions I'm trying to follow from earlier in this thread.
3. Setup Power Vision to collect data for Basic tune. Connect or Mount the Power Vision to your bike and power it up. Using the menus go to Datalog/Assign Signals and configure your Power Vision to datalog by adding the following channels:


MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)*
• ET (Engine Temp)*
Warm-up AFR or Lambda*
TP (Throttle Position)*
• Engine Speed (RPM)*
VE New Front*
VE New Rear*
Accel Enrich*
Spark Knock Front*
Spark Knock Rear*
Desired Air/Fuel (Ratio)* or
Desired Air/Fuel (Lambda)*

Later versions of Log Tuner may also require:
VE Front*
VE Rear*

Add these if using autotune for both AFR and Lambda bikes/calibrations
Lambda 1**
Lambda 2 **
* From H-D data bus
** From Auto Tune (when equipped)
 


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