Power Vision Information Thread
#4531
Couldn't agree more. I call them worry guages. My thighs are pretty good at telling me when the bike is getting hot. There are thousands of bikes around the South/Southwest without guages and they do just fine.
#4532
Looks like you're almost done. I wouldn't worry too much about the 80 and 100 columns. That's questionable data. You'll be in PE mode and open loop out there. You could get away with blending it out from 80 or just leaving the same settings you had in the canned map. Take a look at the canned map and you'll see a trend in those columns and use it as a guage to manually set the VE's. The only thing I would suggest is if you plan to be in the WOT throttle areas alot I would get them sniffed.
#4533
Hey all. I've been reading through this stuff from page 300 or so, on. And I can't quite 100% grasp everything. There is so much to read and a lot of things going on, so I guess I'll just ask instead of trying to find out everything from reading all 400 pages.
I have a 2003 softail with 95" kit, SE high flow ac, and VH big shot pipes. It has a harley flash right now and runs pretty decent. No noticible problems I guess. However it does run kind of lean when at WOT and somewhat rich when cruising. I have a PV that my father in law bought (gonna add a second license to it). I'd like to just sort of fine tune my bike and see what it's doing and what not. I'm relatively new to learning about EFI and all the electronics and what not. So where do I start? What's the best way to go about fine tuning everything? What am I looking for as far as AFR goes? I loaded all the stuff on to my laptop last night and updated everything, so I'm good there. So now what is the best way to go about fine tuning without screwing up how my bike runs now?
I have a 2003 softail with 95" kit, SE high flow ac, and VH big shot pipes. It has a harley flash right now and runs pretty decent. No noticible problems I guess. However it does run kind of lean when at WOT and somewhat rich when cruising. I have a PV that my father in law bought (gonna add a second license to it). I'd like to just sort of fine tune my bike and see what it's doing and what not. I'm relatively new to learning about EFI and all the electronics and what not. So where do I start? What's the best way to go about fine tuning everything? What am I looking for as far as AFR goes? I loaded all the stuff on to my laptop last night and updated everything, so I'm good there. So now what is the best way to go about fine tuning without screwing up how my bike runs now?
#4534
I haven't played with my tune any for the last month or so although I have run some logs. I was still having some minor knock events so I did a new tune using log tuner, but I have not installed it yet as I have some work to do on the inner primary first.
I have been following the thread though and now I am wondering about running an open loop AFR. I am still running mostly closed loop right now and when I checked my MPG riding two up on back roads 45-55 mph I get 37mpg. Hit the hwy two up and run 70 mph and it drops to 32-33 mpg. The logs still had some knock events too.
So my question is for those that run open loop. Can dropping my AFR from closed loop 14.6 to say 14.2 help with the knock events and what affect would that have on my mpg? Is this something I should try and where exactly would I change the afr settings on the table for best results? Could someone, Stalljim, post a picture of their open loop afr table?
I am leaving on a trip for Utah on the 7th of June and it is supposed to rain for the rest of the week so I don't have much time to play around with the afr table before the trip and may have to wait till I get back. Oh and before anyone says anything about getting my VE's dialed in first.......the VE's are set with 5% or less now and using AT or Log Tuner gives the same results on the VE changes of 5% or less for the last 5 tunes. I could probably do the lower idle setting to get the upper left area better and will in the future.
I have been following the thread though and now I am wondering about running an open loop AFR. I am still running mostly closed loop right now and when I checked my MPG riding two up on back roads 45-55 mph I get 37mpg. Hit the hwy two up and run 70 mph and it drops to 32-33 mpg. The logs still had some knock events too.
So my question is for those that run open loop. Can dropping my AFR from closed loop 14.6 to say 14.2 help with the knock events and what affect would that have on my mpg? Is this something I should try and where exactly would I change the afr settings on the table for best results? Could someone, Stalljim, post a picture of their open loop afr table?
I am leaving on a trip for Utah on the 7th of June and it is supposed to rain for the rest of the week so I don't have much time to play around with the afr table before the trip and may have to wait till I get back. Oh and before anyone says anything about getting my VE's dialed in first.......the VE's are set with 5% or less now and using AT or Log Tuner gives the same results on the VE changes of 5% or less for the last 5 tunes. I could probably do the lower idle setting to get the upper left area better and will in the future.
Are you sure you're odometer is correct? I know you was dealing with the same issue a couple months back, but 32 seems low. Have you compared it to a GPS? How does the bike feel, sluggish or nice and crisp? Are your plugs pretty white. They should be just slighly off white. Anything darker is rich. Any soot in your exhaust? What do the CLI's look like on a datalog? They should be staying pretty close to +/- 2% at a steady state cruise. Is the data log showing accel enrichment kicking in alot? You shouldn't see AE kicking in all that much unless your spanking it all the time.
I'll figure out how to post a pic. But for now, I run: (TPS cal)
14.0 - 0 column down to 4000 (Decel)
14.0 - 750/1000/1250 RPM - 20/30/40 kPa (Idle and just off idle)
14.6 - 2500/3000 RPM - 30/40/50/60 kPa (Cruise)
14.3 - everything in between (Just a tad richer than closed loop)
4500 and higher I'm using the canned AFR which goes from 13.9 to 13.3.
This what my bike likes. I run 260 to 270 (90* days) at cruise (70 - 75) which my bike seems to like.
I'm getting right around 40/41 (highway town mix).
#4535
I'm running 14.2 in the cruise range on my 08 softail, didn't notice any mpg drop from my closed loop tune. Not sure on the knock events though, depends on how much you are getting really. Without seeing the logs I can't say. In theory it can help minor knocking events but I believe that is more of a situation where you are running overly lean. I would pull a little timing regardless just to be on the safe side. The way I look at it is if you run say 14.2 and get no more knocking it could be you are now just on the verge of knocking so you might want to give yourself a buffer of sorts. Load a open loop tune on your PV and try it out, the worst that can happen is you or your bike don't like it and you have to take 2 minutes to flashbback to your closed loop tune.
#4536
What do you mean by a closed loop system? Excuse my lack of knowledge. I can wrench on bikes all day long and fix anything, but since I have never been taught or learned about EFI I'm kind of lost. Once I learn it I will pick it up quick, but never had anyone to teach me. I had it dyno'd because I noticed it was running like a turd. I then replaced all the in tank fuel lines and such and it seems to be running better. I guess I just want to get the most out of my bike via the tune. Not a big fan of just a harley basic ECM flash. What am I looking for as far as AFR goes while cruising? While wot? Around town? I'm trying to keep reading page after page but I'm still reasonably lost.
#4538
Last edited by Watchfuliz; 05-29-2013 at 11:28 PM.
#4539
I have been pulling timing out using the Log Tuner. I pulled a couple of degrees once in the areas I was getting the knock event in on my logs, but the bike didn't have any power after that so I put it back. I don't hear any pinging while riding, I just see minor events in the logs is all and I don't know if they are false events or real. They are small numbers anyway so I am not really concerned about them. I was more interested in the open loop setup. Why run open loop? What is gained from running open loop? How does it affect mpg? Where are the changes to open loop made in the afr map exactly? Do you just go to 14.2 from 14.6 or is it a gradual change? That is why I was asking about someone posting their AFR map so I could see how and where they made changes. Thanks for the help.
I will give you my take on open loop, be it right or wrong.
Why do we have closed loop? Because the EPA says so, plain and simple.
If 14.6 is the greatest thing since sliced bread then why didn't tuners tune a bike to 14.6 BEFORE the closed loop system came around?
Open loop tunes won't change on you. The flipside is a bad tank of gas may alter the way a bike runs for remainder of that tank. Closed loop will help compensate for this. I really don't care if does or not. It takes a couple tanks of gas to really get the AFV's established. I have to fill up again after the FIRST tank is empty so why worry about it. The chances of getting 2 bad tanks of gas in a row are slim to none. I guess I don't buy in to the "bad gas" theory.
CL = lean...plain and simple. Sure you can tweak a CLB to richen it up, but by how much. And then how does that affect the 02 sensors efficiency and longevity? This will probably start a debate so I'll leave it at that.
In my situation the bike runs fine in CL at cruise. Temps are fine. In 6th gear at 2650 RPM's (70 mph) there really isn't any substantial power to be made so long as it doesn't ping or get hot I try to take advantage of the slight fuel savings. It has plenty of air flow to the engine at 70 mph so it's fine. However, at the lower RPM's my bike is a bronco. Between the crappy 02 sensor location/depth and the tall 2.79 gearing, it has much better manners in open loop. Even with many many different timing attempts my bike likes open loop down low and it feels much stronger down there with a tad bit more fuel.
There's nothing wrong with a all out open loop tune. They ran great for years and will continue to for years to come.
Bottom line is this: Some builds just don't like closed loop. Some bikes are qwirky and respond better to open loop with a tad bit more fuel.
As far as making the changes gradual, you could if it makes you feel better. But I have watched the Set AFR on the PV screen and see AFR's between the 14.0 14.3 and 14.6, so the ECM's seems to be weighing in and doing some averaging. I don't feel any transition going from 14.3 OL to when it goes 14.6 CL.
There are die hard CL fans outh there and there are others that run OL and some that run a combination of OL / CL. I'm not a big fan of closed loop. But I do run it in the cruise area because I don't expect much out of the bike, performance wise, in that area.
#4540
A little timing advance sometimes helps with decel pop too. It's in decel so no real risk of pinging. Maybe a little more timing and less fuel will accomplish the same thing.