Originally Posted by ColoSpgsMark

Are you seeing the >5% changes in the same cells or just hitting different parts of the map? Looks like you're getting close,but I'd try to broaden the range of cells you're hitting a bit more and possible do a run or two with a little longer collection time. A view of the VE graph itself would be good just to see how consistent you're VE's are across the entire range. Looking for sharp peaks or valleys

Originally Posted by stailjim61

Forget about the AFR table for now. It seems like you're just confusing yourself. Set it up at 14.6 and go do some tuning runs. You aren't concerned about the AFR table settings, what you need to be looking at is getting your VE's and timing dialed in. Once you get the VE's within a percent or two then start working on your timing tables. Once you get timing squared away ( bring it up until it starts to ping and then back off 2 degrees, some like 3) go back and make 2 more VE runs. You should be dialed in pretty good at that point. Now you can play around with the AFR table. Messing with the AFR table before you have your VE's and Timing right is just wasting time. If your VE's aren't right your AFR won't be right so don't bother with them until your dialed in. And yes, if your CLB's are higher than 450 your AFR's will be richer also.

Originally Posted by stailjim61

You guys need to stop basing things on the way the graph looks. The graph means nothing! It's only a PICTURE instead of numbers. If Log Tuner is showing that the VE's are within a couple of percent change FORGET the graph. If the VE's are dialed in to less than a couple percent change leave it alone. There's no need or reason to smooth anything out or try to make a pretty graph. All that does ruin a good tune. If the bike consistently says I WANT THIS, then leave it alone. If the graph has a spike or a valley you have 2 options. Leave it as it is, as that's what the engine is saying it wants. Or start looking at EGR changes, which is an animal with different spots. Just because a less than 2% tune has a spike or a divot does not mean there's anything wrong. All it means is that's what the bike wants. Forget the graph!

Originally Posted by stailjim61

Some areas are good to go, some need work. You have some low RPM areas that definitely need work. Depending on your exhaust it may never come as close to where you want to be. How the sensors are reading makes all the difference, but you don't have much control over that unless you want to get picky and follow the Bosch guidance to a tee. Anyway, I still think you will get the lower RPM's to dial in. Just get on a deserted street and stay in those areas. Start at just off idle, stay there for 20 seconds...raise the rpm's 200 or so...stay there for 20 seconds...again and again. Then do the same in 2nd gear....rinse and repeat. 3rd gear...rinse and repeat. Don't be afraid to wring it out. It will sound like it's revving way beyond your comfort level but don't back down. Just don't be dumb and get yourself hurt, use a little common sense doing this. The key is to repeat the same strategy on every tuning run. I run the same route with flats and hills. I run through each gear...staying in each RPM area 20 seconds. then I run the same route 2 or 3 times on each tuning run. On the hills I drag the brake a little and SLOWLY bring the RPM's up in stages staying there as long as possible (without burning up the brakes of course). If your bike is good running order, meaning no exhaust or intake leaks you should get these VE's to within 2 or 3%. Some of your areas are way outside 5% which tells you to gas up and make some more runs.

Originally Posted by wurk_truk

What you want to do is try to do tuning runs above 60*. Also, if you do timing runs, make sure that is above 60* also. Then in summer, use the temp correction table to fix any ping issues and not the spark tables them selves. That way, timing is good for both cooler weather and hot weather.

Yes, the bike compensates for all kinds of temps, but for AT, best between 60 and 85 degrees or so. You will NOT have to have AT in use once bike is properly tuned.

Originally Posted by papifun

I'm Jealous.. still winter and 3 months to go so i can try the revised Basic Auto tune for PV.... is there a written procedure anywhere ? Been reading threads but it's so LONG...