The old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" concept doesn't work too well here. We are always fixing things that are just fine, so don't let practicality or reality hold you back from having some fun.

 

Thanks! I agree. At least you can always go back to a saved previous tune that's been saved on the computer or PV

 

I was wondering if the power vision has more tunes on it then what the dynojet website will let you download for Dyna models. when i look on the website it only shows 11 tunes for 2011 and 4 for 2012, I have a 2012 street bob with V&H straight shot slip ons and SE air cleaner and was wondering if there is a tune already pre loaded on it for this combo.

 

I have been trying to avoid asking a question in this thread until now.
But I am confused on something. on the AFR table, if I select E10, the AFR value drops. Does this mean this is the AFR the bike will run at if the VE tables are all correct?
The AFR drops from 14.4 to 13.9 in the chart when I switch to E10. Does this mean if I have my bike set up to run on E10 (that's all I can get around here) and it runs at 14.4 for example, then I run a tank of plain Gas, will it run leaner than E10?

One more question. Is there a way to change AFR values across the board by a % instead of having to change groups of cells individually?

I have yet to change the tune provided by FM yet. I just finished sorting thru several of you guys instructions and it finally made sense. I am going to make the first tuning log this evening and give it a shot. But those are a couple of areas that are still unclear to me.
I understand that the VE tables are the heart and sole of it all and they are key to actually running the AFR, ect that are in the other tables. I am still cloudy on the AFR part and how to change it across the board though and what the difference between gas and E10 is.

Thanks!

 

"One more question. Is there a way to change AFR values across the board by a % instead of having to change groups of cells individually?"

Yes. There is a 'Cell Math Toolbar'. If you don't see it in your WinPV program, pull down the 'View' menu and select it. This allows you to select a group of cells, and add, subtract, set, etc values.

 

Do as Hboat said and be sure to select "Percent." Highlight (select) all areas you want affected, set your change value, click on "Percent," and then "Add" or "Subtract."

Where is this E10 selection? I don't have it in either WinPV or PV Tune, but stoich for E10 is 14.2 while it's 14.68 for pure gas. I do have a stoich selection in PV Tune > Options and I have it set for "14.6". Jamie suggested leaving it there, which is the way I have mine set even though I run E10 100% of the time.

After becoming comfortable with the PCV with and without AT it took me quite a while to wrap my head around the relationship between the VE and AFR tables. VE is "predicted airflow," and raising or lowering this value affects the amount of fuel calibrated--but so does the AFR table. It sounds like they do the same thing, but they don't.

The idea is to first match the value in the AFR table at a given point with the actual AFR measured by an O2 sensor or sniffer, which is done by changing the VE value. Once this is matched it is tuned at that point. You can change the value in the AFR table as you wish and the ECM will calculate the proper AFR. E.g., if my VE value is 80 at 2500rpm @ 20% TP (will be in KPA for newer bikes), the AFR table value is 14.4, and the actual measured AFR is 14.4, the VE value is correct. From that point on you don't change the VE value. If you want to change AFR, do it in the AFR table. Believe it or not it actually works. I tuned my bike using varied AFRs from 13.0 at WOT to 14.5 at cruise, then without changing the VE table I changed all values to 13.0 for a rich map. To my surprise the WB O2 sensors showed ~.89 Lambda everywhere in the operating range, which is correct.

 

Huh. Mine rides the same whether I let it idle/warm all the way up to operating temp in the garage or if I take off right away and ride it softly until up to operating temp.

Of course it would ride a bit crappy if you went from cold start to WOT in a few seconds. But, who does that?

There is nothing wrong with how you like to warm your bike up but I can not grasp how your bike does not run good unless you let it warm up in your own "special way". The bike is not a living creature and should run the same when at full operating temp, regardless of how it got to full operating temp, unless there is a mechanical issue.

 

Mine doesn't. I guess you just have to ride it to feel it. If I don't let it warm to temp on the first starting of the day. I just get more vibrations when at a stop at idle. Just doesn't run correct.

There are not any codes. Just doesn't feel/run as smooth. I know my bike. I ride it to and from work everyday, and every chance I get. It like to warm up to temp on the first starting of the day. After that a good 20-30 seconds, and it runs fine throughout the day.

 

Iclick i see the E10 also in the drop down menu. I am on my phone but will put up a snap shot of it next time i am on my computer.

 

IClick, go to the Air Fuel Ratio table. In the upper right hand corner of the screen that displays the table, just below the light blue header, you'll see a check box "Show as Air Fuel Ratio, using stoichiometric of:" Just below that is a drop down menu. Interesting. I might play around with it when I install my new FM headpipe when I get it. E10 reduces the AFR by 0.5 or from 14.6-14.1 etc.