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Power Vision Information Thread

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  #2311  
Old 04-29-2012 | 08:53 PM
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editbrain
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Just let it sit until you don't hear the hiss from the air cleaner, and touch the rear rocker box to verify it is warm. Not necessarily scalding. Just warm. Lets me know th oil is thinned out, and she is ready to go.
Hot days take less time than cool days.
 
  #2312  
Old 04-29-2012 | 09:17 PM
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Cool, ill give it a try. Also, gonna raise my idle to 1000rpm. Im leaving for Thunder Beach this wednesday and there is always plenty of idling in traffic. Hopefully the 1000rpm idle will smooth the vibs out a little.
 
  #2313  
Old 04-29-2012 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by editbrain
When you bike starts it is at 1350 RPM or so until the temp comes to temp. You bike's computer goes though several sensor checks. Once it has run though it's pre-checks, and the motor comes to temp it will step down to 1000 RPM.
Your idle speed for various ET's as well as the IAC steps can be adjusted with the PV.

One thing I have noticed with my bike, and I use the SEPST, but that is irrelevant is that if you start up and ride off without the bike finishing checks, and the bike still pulling in air (you can hear it, and hear is stop) it runs really ruff for the entire time you ride until you shut it off. A lot of folks say with EFI you can just start and go. Well I still let the bike finish its start up checks, and then if possible I wait until the heads (rocker boxes) get a little warm to touch before I ride off. I find that this gives me a smooth ride, and also helps with fuel mileage. I have did the start and go, and the bike just doesn't really like to roll that way. It likes to be at running temp before you head down the road.
It should run fine if you start and go, as I do that every time with a maximum of maybe 30 sec. of waiting time. I'm not sure why you're having problems of this sort, as it shouldn't run rough during warm-up, and it certainly shouldn't continue that kind of behavior after it reaches operating temperature. Have you made any changes to the Warmup Enrichment or IAC Warmup Steps parameters?
 
  #2314  
Old 04-29-2012 | 09:45 PM
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If nothing else it will keep thw oil pressure where it needs to be.
 
  #2315  
Old 04-30-2012 | 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by lhgdale
Has anyone found a good idle to stick with? Ive got mine set at 950 and it seems to vibrate the whole bike more than normal while sitting on the kickstand or in traffic.
I have set idle to 975 to me the bike feels better and is much better at rolling speeds in parking lot. It felt to me like the idle at 1k was pushing the bike along when rolling really slow I did not like that.
 
  #2316  
Old 04-30-2012 | 11:38 PM
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Is lowering below 1000 a good idea?
 
  #2317  
Old 05-01-2012 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by iclick
You apparently have reversion going on at 0%, as those values are too high. I would put them back to their original numbers and avoid tuning that area.

I also have had trouble with that exact region, but mine tunes progressively leaner. I ended up using -10 from stock values since AFR was originally set at 12.5:1, which is too rich IMO, and it runs fine there. My tune is about as good as it's going to get by now and when I run datalogs I just move the old VE's for that area of the 0% column to the new VE table, thereby making no changes there. Actually, what I've been doing lately is just selectively tweaking a few areas of the tune by manually changing VE values in WinPV using the New VE values in PV Tune.

When tuning you need to watch what's going on, as sometimes these anomalies occur. In my case I was getting slow leaning in that area of 0%, slow enough where I didn't notice it. I was getting popping which I attributed to Decel Engleanment, which I unsuccessfully kept trying to tweak, until I noticed that one or two cells at 0% were abnormally low compared to those surrounding it. After making those changes I no longer have a decel-popping problem.
Thanks, I'll go through and adjust that column. I haven't been accepting VEs for awhile, just curious.
 
  #2318  
Old 05-01-2012 | 11:26 PM
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I wanted a temporary mount for my phone GPS so I could calibrate my speedo after sprocket/gearing changes. I bought this spider thingy for 12 bucks on Amazon...it holds phones and stuff;

http://www.amazon.com/Breffo-Spiderp...5928146&sr=8-1

I used cable ties to secure it to the steering head. This was a very temporary RubeGoldberg solution. Since then, I've found that I really like the gauges on my PowerVision, and these flexible "legs" allow easy on/off when I want to remove my tuner.
 
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  #2319  
Old 05-02-2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by editbrain
If nothing else it will keep thw oil pressure where it needs to be.
You mean using a long warm-up interval to allow OP to rise to a safe level? OP should jump to normal almost instantaneously after starting, even when cold. Are you seeing a delay? If so, how long?
 
  #2320  
Old 05-02-2012 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by editbrain
Is lowering below 1000 a good idea?
The minimum to maintain safe oil pressure is supposedly 900, and some ECM calibrations won't even allow you to set it lower. I've had mine set to 850 briefly as a test, but I settled on 950 as a smooth idle RPM. It was set to 967 stock. All these values are for a fully-warmed engine, as the ECM uses transitional idle RPM values as the bike warms up. These are adjustable with any flash-based tuner (PV, SEPST, & TTS).
 


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