Power Vision Information Thread
#2301
What is a good option for mounting on an Ultra Classic? I'm leaning toward a Ram mount so I can pull it off easily during normal trips, say to work and back, or switch to a nylock if I'm taking a trip and want to lock it on more securely. The Leader mount looks easy to take on and off, or lock down with the set screw, but the lack of adjustment may be an issue. The Techmount looks secure and stable, but how hard is it to take the stem off when I'd want to? Sorry for the open question, but I just got the PV in and am looking at the options.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
#2302
The Techmount looks secure and stable, but how hard is it to take the stem off when I'd want to?
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
#2304
What is a good option for mounting on an Ultra Classic? I'm leaning toward a Ram mount so I can pull it off easily during normal trips, say to work and back, or switch to a nylock if I'm taking a trip and want to lock it on more securely. The Leader mount looks easy to take on and off, or lock down with the set screw, but the lack of adjustment may be an issue. The Techmount looks secure and stable, but how hard is it to take the stem off when I'd want to? Sorry for the open question, but I just got the PV in and am looking at the options.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
Last edited by Udawg; 04-29-2012 at 08:30 AM.
#2305
Question for the experts. I did a little log tonight just to check on things. This is the new VE for the rear. The red values just continue to climb and climb. What could be happening at 0% TP to keep them growing? Is it some sort of leak? The only thing about the rear cylinder that is happening is a small oil leak at the left rear rocker box gasket. I have the gasket set, but was going to wait until after a June trip to fix it. Anyway, not sure it is related. Any ideas on the climbing VEs?
I also have had trouble with that exact region, but mine tunes progressively leaner. I ended up using -10 from stock values since AFR was originally set at 12.5:1, which is too rich IMO, and it runs fine there. My tune is about as good as it's going to get by now and when I run datalogs I just move the old VE's for that area of the 0% column to the new VE table, thereby making no changes there. Actually, what I've been doing lately is just selectively tweaking a few areas of the tune by manually changing VE values in WinPV using the New VE values in PV Tune.
When tuning you need to watch what's going on, as sometimes these anomalies occur. In my case I was getting slow leaning in that area of 0%, slow enough where I didn't notice it. I was getting popping which I attributed to Decel Engleanment, which I unsuccessfully kept trying to tweak, until I noticed that one or two cells at 0% were abnormally low compared to those surrounding it. After making those changes I no longer have a decel-popping problem.
#2306
#2309
When you bike starts it is at 1350 RPM or so until the temp comes to temp. You bike's computer goes though several sensor checks. Once it has run though it's pre-checks, and the motor comes to temp it will step down to 1000 RPM.
1000 RPM might sound high, but after you have ridden for a while, and you come to a stop light the idle will seem a lot smoother at 1000 RPM.
One thing I have noticed with my bike, and I use the SEPST, but that is irrelevant is that if you start up and ride off without the bike finishing checks, and the bike still pulling in air (you can hear it, and hear is stop) it runs really ruff for the entire time you ride until you shut it off.
A lot of folks say with EFI you can just start and go. Well I still let the bike finish its start up checks, and then if possible I wait until the heads (rocker boxes) get a little warm to touch before I ride off. I find that this gives me a smooth ride, and also helps with fuel mileage.
I have did the start and go, and the bike just doesn't really like to roll that way. It likes to be at running temp before you head down the road.
Everyone has their own way of doing things though.
1000 RPM might sound high, but after you have ridden for a while, and you come to a stop light the idle will seem a lot smoother at 1000 RPM.
One thing I have noticed with my bike, and I use the SEPST, but that is irrelevant is that if you start up and ride off without the bike finishing checks, and the bike still pulling in air (you can hear it, and hear is stop) it runs really ruff for the entire time you ride until you shut it off.
A lot of folks say with EFI you can just start and go. Well I still let the bike finish its start up checks, and then if possible I wait until the heads (rocker boxes) get a little warm to touch before I ride off. I find that this gives me a smooth ride, and also helps with fuel mileage.
I have did the start and go, and the bike just doesn't really like to roll that way. It likes to be at running temp before you head down the road.
Everyone has their own way of doing things though.
#2310