I agree with Beasleyiv. In my tests, MPG will be affected noticeably, probably about 3mpg, but cooling won't change much. YMMV for both, of course, and you could find out by running the 14.4 tune while watching ET, or create a log, and then switch to the 13.6 tune and continue riding under the same conditions (speed, air temp, etc.). Compare your ET on the display while riding or in the logs created.

I personally wouldn't go that rich (13.6) and would limit it to 13.8, which is where Fuel Moto sets their tunes when you don't ask for a "mileage tune." OTOH if you're trying to create a cooling tune to keep in the PV for emergencies, I would go down to 13.0-13.5. I have a tune that is 13.0 for the whole Set AFR table, but with the exception of one time when I ran it by accident I haven't had to load it at all. When I did load it I didn't see any change shift in the ET I normally run when at 14.5, but oil temps seemed to be a bit lower, which makes no sense to me.

When I had the PCV with AT and had the hardware switch enabled, I could switch on the fly from my 13.5 base map to learning mode set to 14.6 in the cruise range. My tests showed that ET changed about 7° during summer riding at slow highway speeds (~55mph). I expected more change and because of that, as well as the fact that this bike runs relatively cool set to 14.5 in the cruise range, I don't bother flashing to my rich tune at the drop of a hat. If it gets bad enough I'll do it, but so far haven't had to. When ET's get >300°, which is rare, I start thinking about it. Last year in some really bad gridlock traffic it hit 330° and OT reached 240°, the highest I've seen for both on this bike, and I was about one minute from pulling over and flashing to the rich tune when the traffic started flowing again.

 

Well, spent parts of the afternoons of a very busy weekend doing the Stage 1 upgrade to my '12 Road King. Added V&H power duals head pipes, Fuel Moto billet hi-flo air cleaner, and installed the Fuel Moto map for my configuration via my new Power Vision. Finished last night about 8:30pm, and took it for a quick spin.

Comments on the Stage 1 install: Nothing "rocket science" about it, but I have to say the install of the V&H head pipes was very tedious. I'm very glad I had my "patient" hat on - especially with adjusting/tightening the head pipe mounting bracket on the side of the transission. Following the directions left VERY little room to manuever the allen wrenches to tighten the socket head screws once all was aligned. The end result all good, but wow - lots of contortionist moves to get things tightened-up! I was being super careful with alignment and that was part of what took a long time, as well. The replacement/install of the air cleaner was amazingly quick, so that was nice. Thanks to this thread, I was able to do the PV map install fairly quickly - there were many steps not included in the "quick start" DJ guide that I'd read about here - so thanks again for helping me not get utterly confused with the process due to poor documentation!

Initial ride impressions: The addition of the head pipe (sans cat, of course) and the air cleaner, coupled with the re-map resulted in the exhaust note being a fair bit louder and deeper than with just the monster round slip-ons added previously. As expected, the bike has "woken-up" quite a bit with the stage 1. Pulls very well, and wants to climb through the rpms well and smoothly. Prior to this point, I knew the bike handled much better than my '98 Wide Glide, but wasn't sure it was much faster ('98 had stage 1 and cam) - now I'm sure it's quicker by a fair amt. I'm getting a bit of decel popping coasting downhill (completely off-throttle) as well as the occasional pop in-between upshifts under strong acceleration, so I'm going to need to go back through this thread and see what minor adjustments I may need to try to tweak on the map if I get bold. For the time being, I'm just going to go out and get some miles on this thing. Cheers~

 

FYI FWIW I just rode a bit and found my KPa at idle on a 96" with SE255s and a big sucker and VH DBs is about 43. I have adjusted my map to get the idle AFR at 13.6.

 

At a ~950rpm idle I'm between 37-38KPA with 4" Jackpots and FM AC--otherwise the same setup. My Set AFR is 14.0. Wonder why the difference in KPA?

 

iclick do you keep your idle at 950? It was suggested on tune runs to set idle at 950 and I did that on a couple of runs. I liked how the bike felt I dont care about cam lope I dont care about how it sounds etc. I just like the way the bike felt and responded. I have went back and forth with my own unscientific test and evaluation. I am now running my idle at 975 and I like the way it feels there it has better parking lot manners if you will.

My idle kpa was 40 with the woods cams, SE intake and V&H big shot duals. I dont know if my new exhaust has changed that. I have scrapped all VE data that I got from previous tune runs and am starting over

 

I followed the directions and used the '319245' code. Collected about 4MB of data and I'm still getting zero box hits when I load the log and calculate the tune.

I opened the log file and all of the values that I need are showing. I have a lamda based tune and the cells that I want to tune for are '0.984'... or 14.5AFR. According to the instructions 0.984 is ok for a lamda tune.

What am I doing wrong?

 

Does anyone know what the firmware update does that was just released?

 

try again and use 0.981 that worked for me every time.

 

My idle is ~900. i just think every motor is different, that's why we're here tuning instead of being happy with a canned tune.

 

It allows us with older bikes to use some of the newer maps.