Flashed it last night and had it out today for about an hour - seemed to run just fine, probably a bit stronger, but not sure if that's my imagination, but nothing outrageously different, I have to say.

One thing is for sure - no more decel popping. Prior to the PV it would do it occasionally, but not very often and certainly nothing I was concerned about but now its pretty much gone from what I can tell.

Also seems to "tick" less when cruising or decelerating from cruising. But again, could be my imagination.

At any rate, seems to run fine.

 

I just got a new map from FM and flashed it today and went for a 4 hour ride. It was perfect. I didn't think they could get it this close on the first set of logs but it was perfect. I also thought it had less ticking so maybe it's not just me. Those guys are sure good at what they do.

 

That is all you have to do but I would suggest at least doing some tuning runs to set the VEs for your bike even if you don't change anything else. However, there is a lot of potential in the PV.

 

First of all thanks to this thread and everyones contributions it was pretty much easy and enjoyable, rather than painless!

I was able to get 3 good logs in over the week-end to tweak the pre-loaded Fuel Moto map.
In the VE's there was about a 3-5% difference at 750 to 3500 rpm between the original map and the last run. There looked to a lot less betwwen the 2nd and 3rd runs...less than 1% and very few less than than 2%. The timing tables changed some too. As suspected the decel popping was always present from about 1800 on down.

Now, the map FM sent me is in closed loop AFR (14.6 -cruising range) Following what you have suggested on here (Dennis) I ended up richening the AFR to 13.8 @ 20kpa column 750-1500 rpm and 14.0 1500-4000. I also "smoothed" the 30 kpa column from 14.4 to 14.5 from 750 up to 4000. I then reduced the decel enleanment by 50% across the board. This has brought it down to an ever so slight gurgle at slowing down under closed throttle once in a while. if you have any more suggestions I'll keep working on that... All in all, it runs smooth and very strong.

Does it matter that the temps here were in the mid 40's (cold and less humid?) Would the next step be working on the AFR tables for cooling when it gets up into the 70's to 90's in the summer? I imagine that takes it out of closed loop (not that it matters?) I eventually want to end up with a good all around map.

** On a side note here i just took a look at the close loop bias in these maps and everything is set at 700 which to my understanding will put the actual AFR in the 14.3 range while the ECM is is "fooled" into thinking that it's 14.6. Can they be raised more if needed? I also got 40 mpg on the tankful of gas I used during the data log runs! not bad since I rode a little harder than I normally do :-) ...Hmm....I just may be good to go!

 

Everything sounds good from your description above. When the temps get higher you could switch to an open loop map if you wanted but give the one you developed a try first. I run an open loop map in my bike. As for the CLB, the range of the stock O2 sensors is pretty limited. If CLB is set to 450, the bike will run closed loop at 14.68. Setting it to 700 makes that about 14.63. I would not recommend going much over 750 (14.58) in the CLB table. If you really want to run richer, change the AFR table to open loop. I run my CLB table set to 700 when I use closed loop.

 

This was MUCH easier than the SERT I had on my '06.....Thanks Dennis!

 

JD... changing to Open Loop means u will need the autotune module for the PV ? still have few months before riding season starts here... reviewing my PV instructions.. I am using the Stock 02 sensors... can i select open loop on my PV ?

 

You don't need the autotune module to change to open loop. When you switch to open loop, you actually take the O2 sensors out of the loop. You can tune/set the VEs with either the stock sensors or the autotune wideband sensors. I believe what you are thinking about is that you need the autotune module to be able to tune areas that are not set to closed loop, but you don't need the unit to run an open loop map.

You can tune the closed loop cells using the stock O2 sensors, then change the AFR table to let's say 13.8 and the bike will calculate the correct fuel mixture based on the VEs you set during tuning.

 

Hey guys,
I'm new to the PV. I just got one from Fuel Moto with the Autotune.
I'm still trying to figure it out with the tuning.
When I read on this thread on page 104 post# 1036 I saw a few guys complaining about the anti-knock feature possibly not working properly.

That made me think of the post I put up the other day about the NGK Iridium plugs.
Could this be the problem?
I sent an email to Jamie and also posted this question up on the Fuel Moto thread under sponsors with no answer so far.





Here is the post:
I was really interested in these plugs, till I did some internet research and found this:

 

Not true,
All years of harley EFI's have that feature, but a different plug "might" change
when it sees a knock, because of a different resitance of that plug. But thats been hard to prove that a different plug is causing a problem with this feature.