That all seems quite reasonable. I see a lot of people send the tune fatter in the idle area. Personally, I run my bike closed loop at idle.

What RPM do you typically run on the highway? I tend to jump to 14 at RPMs above that point just to keep things in check if I get in a hurry.

Beast

 

I have a 2010 SE Ultra and the tranny ratios keep highway cruising speeds below 3000rpms all the way up to 80mph in 6th gear. The vast majority of all engine operating "time" is spent below 3000rpms. So if economy matters to you, then closed loop below 3000 makes sense.

To be honest, I don't use my economy map that much as I'm abit of a power hog and less concerned with fuel economy. With my 6 gallon tank and 35-37 mpg my range is over 210 miles which is generally longer than most of the guys I ride with can sit in the saddle. When I use the economy map, my range is closer to 270-280miles.

If I use the economy map with long distance highway riding, I have gotten over 300 miles to a tank.

 

I moved to PV from the PCV-AT and I can't say that I can tell any difference in performance or mileage between the two, but I really didn't expect to. I've never performed a dyno-tune on any bike I've owned and my experience with the PV is with the AT-100 attached. The PV w/AT-100 Pro and PCV-AT are two different approaches to tuning but I think one is as good as the other for the basic functions, which is to get AFR and spark advance correct. Of course the PCV with or without AT can't tune spark advance, but I started with a Fuel Moto map that had it very close.

This isn't a negative response to your question, as there is more to the equation than just the basic tune. What the PV does for me is to allow tweaking tables in the ECM that I couldn't manipulate before--like idle speed, speedometer calibration, IAC steps, etc. It also shows real-time data on the display unit, and as an info junkie I appreciate that. So, although I feel I acquired a good tune with the PCV-AT I think I've retained that good level of tune while gaining in other areas that make the bike run a bit more in-line with how I want rather than what the Moco thought I should have. I can say that has lived up to my expectations and I won't be changing tuners again on this bike.

 

With my milder build (TC96 with 255 cams) I've found that I can tune for mileage without any noticeable hit on performance. I performed my tune with the AT-100 Pro and am running open-loop throughout, with the cruise-range AFR's set to 14.5 (actually tuned to 14.6) and WOT at 13.0:1, tapering these values in the transition areas. I also have another tune that has 13.0:1 set for the entire range of operation, and that tune is to be used whenever optimal cooling is needed, like gridlock traffic in summer where temps climb above what I consider an acceptable level. When I've run this richer tune I can't tell any difference in performance and head temps stay within 10° of the leaner tune in summer. I have yet to use the richer tune, but it's there if needed.

So, if the only difference between your two tunes is running in closed-loop for the economy tune, I'm surprised you are feeling any difference in performance. Is the difference at WOT or throttle-response while still in closed-loop? If you're seeing that much difference in mileage I assume you're running quite rich in the cruise range.

 

There's no difference in performance above 3000rpms when running either the eco or dyno-tune maps. Not surprising since all parameters are identical above 70Kpa and above 3000 rpms.

Where the performance difference is definitely noticeable is when the throttle is hit hard from a stand still (stop light acceleration) or when cruising on the highway or backroads in the low 2000's and deciding to whack the throttle. In either of these situations, the bike accelerates smoothly using the eco-tuned map (over 20 data runs) but the acceleration is definitely weaker than the dyno tuned map which operates in open loop with far greater VE values and richer AFRs (Lambdas) below 3000 rpms.

When I run the dyno-tuned map, the acceleration in low rpm situations is very noticeably stronger vs the leaner eco-map.

 

We can get that out of the tune if it bothers you. All I need is a copy of the tune and an hour or so log off the bike off the backroads and some highway. I would need the O2 voltage, target AFR, pulse width, IAT, VSS, gear, VE and VE New MAP, RPM , TPS, AE and DE all logged from the gas mileage tune.

Beast

 

I'm not sure I understand. Are you offering a service for sale? The Dyno tune gave me the max performance possible for the entire map.

The PV autotune feature gave me the max economy possible below 3000rpms by tuning in closed loop. The tuning was achieved by raising the AFR to 14.5 and tuning the VE tables against the leaner AFR table.

The Dyno tune maximized the spark tables, AFR, VE and all other parameters to generate the max hp/tq possible from the bike on 93octane fuel.

What exactly could you do that would improve upon these 2 maps? Are you suggesting you can generate the same level of "power" with less fuel and no dyno tuning?

 

One of the tricks of tuning is to get the AFR to jump to go mode when you want it and economy mode when you desire. I have to see the log to figure out where your bike lives. Most of the time you can get both sides working in the same tune.

Sometimes I can find the issue fairly quick.

Beast

 

Does anybody have the gear indication on their 2011 SOFTAIL Power Vision??

 

Okay, got my pv from fuelmoto today and got it on. First thing I did was flash my map from jamie, which only said fxdf fatbob for description. I have a 2008 street bob with se ac and bub jug huggers. The label on the box says 2008 street bob. So I dont think much about it, figure they use the same motor and its just a label on the screen, maybe my setup was tested on a fb or whatever.
Take off out of my garage and down the street and immediately notice far more power for no more throttle than im giving it. Im immediately impressed. get a ways down the road, let off the throttle and get a horrible popping and noise. So I flashed a dynojet tune (bub 7 2 into 2, se ac) and the popping was even worse yet.
Get back and look around through the options and want to check out the gauges. The voltmeter appears to work, but cant get a tach for some reason. Could be due to my computer ignorance lol. Or is there a trick to getting the gauges to work? Also, does the power button not work? Tried to turn it off while the bike is running and while it was hooked to my laptop, it appears to do nothing.
Ill get with jamie and im sure theyll work all this out. Just wanted to fish for simple answers here if im missing something simple. Any help from the pv techs on here would be awesome.