Sorry, just read that VE is a percentage. So the delta's should be percentages as well? So delta values of .9 to 1.2 should be good? No more changes needed?

 

There is so many things in that article are wrong. Dr. Dyno should stick to tuning PC's.

"In closed-loop mode, the O2 sensors don’t adjust the fuel maps. Instead, they completely take control away from them, causing the temperature and pressure sensors to have no effect either"

How does it eliminate the map sensor when on the new bikes the lambda tables are map/rpm based? If it doesn't adjust the fuel maps how do the AFV's work? The IAT sensor also tells the ecm the "quality" of the air.

"When I twisted the throttle one-quarter open, notice that the rear cylinder (red) went a little lean, running open-loop on its fuel table during the acceleration."

Both ends of that afr graph the bike is in open loop. That is why the ecm relies on accurate ve tables to deliver the correct amount of fuel, nothing to do with the closed loop portion of the map.

"The problem is, it will still be that lean at three-quarter throttle while trying to make 60-plus hp."

I doubt that at 3/4 throttle you at at a low enough kpa to be in closed loop. There is no reason not to run closed loop in the light load/cruise area if the parts of the system are working as they should. Poor o2 sensor installation in exhaust pipes are a big issue with getting the system to work. Typical computer, garbage in, garbage out. Closed loop will allow your bike to adjust for different grades of fuel.

 

Seeing in daylight is painfull, visor helps, but not enough.
Check box would be an enhancement.
I'd appreciate a display with as many gauges as possible : RPM, fuel, speed, weather forecast... :-)

JJ

 

To those of you that had you're pv dyno tuned what kind of results did you get? To those of you that didnt how did the butt dyno results turn out?

 

With the help of Whittlebeast and Mega Log Viewer I tuned mine on the street. It took some time (and about 500 miles) to get it dialed in right. I have no doubt my tune is way better than anything I would have got on a Dyno, and way cheaper.

 

Is this tuning on the street something a just somewhat computer literate guy can figure out? And has anyone got a fm mapped pv and not screwed with it and had good results? Reading this deal it seems as if everybody is constantly working with it. Or is that just the tinkerer in all of us lol.

 

Tuning on the street the way I do it is definitely one of the things that can drive a guy that likes to tinker crazy. I tend to mess with the tune for about two weeks after a new trick or part comes around and then just ride the bike. Every once in a wile, I may hook up the data logger and snoop in on how the tune is doing....

I have yet to find anyone to first do a "pro" tune and then later do a hand tweaked street tune and then go back the the "pro" dyno tune after the experiment.

All the big changes normally are in the drivability/midrange part of the tune. The Sportys have the biggest issues as they can not be ridden in closed loop without huge downsides.

Beast

 

I actually went back to my pro-tune but my situation is probably somewhat unique. I'm still running the narrow band O2 sensors which is why I really needed to go back to the dyno tune if I wanted performance.

I've had headwork, larger throttlebody, larger injectors, roller rockers and Woods 408-6 cam installed on my 110. My dyno tune is excellent but the entire map is out of closed loop therefore it's not possible to tune with the PV, at least in open loop with the stock NB sensors.

Unfortunately I would need to change out my exhaust bungs to accomodate the larger WB O2 sensors in order to tune my performance map.

I did however tune the bike to develop an "economy map" where everything below 3000rpms is in closed loop. I used the PV to tune below 3000 to optimize the engine for fuel economy and above 3000 rpms I use the tables that were developed on the dyno.

The difference in fuel economy between the 2 maps is significant. The economy map generally gets around 43-45 mpg while the performance map gets around 35mpg. The downside is that while the performance of the economy map is smooth it also does not have the giddy-up of the performance map.

If I had WB sensors that would allow me to further improve on the dyno-tuned map, I would definitely try tuning the performance map to see if any gains could be found.

 

Heatwave

At what MAP reading do you jump out of closed loop? I tend to tune where the bike runs closed loop at what ever MAP it holds at cruise on the highway. Any more than that on the MAP and I jump to 14 AFR and slide to richer as I climb to about 13 AFR.

Beast

 

The dyno tuned map has no areas in closed loop. The economy map that I tuned on the PV is in closed loop from 0-70Kpa and from 0-3000rpms. The area of the map outside this range, retained the original dyno-tuned map settings. This way I have all the performance needed above 3000rpms but when cruising below 3000rpms, I have excellent fuel economy (44 vs 35mpg).

The bike runs extremely smooth with both maps. Absolutely no stumbles or backfires and very crisp throttle response. The difference between the 2 maps really is the trade off of fuel economy for power below 3000 rpms. There's also a slight increase in engine temp with the economy map, about 10-15 degrees hotter in economy.

The PV allows me to change the map whenever needed and also provides real-time monitor of engine temp, fuel economy and other measures of interest.