Thanks for the map!

 

I loaded the map, bike ran better. My understanding is that you have to set clb values prior to smart tuning, if this is correct, then any suggestions on a good value to richen that area for cooling purposes and still get good fuel economy? The map that was sent have 720 across the board. Also is it correct that the clb values will only affect the areas in the AFR that has a value of 14.6?

 

Try 775.....they suggest that in tuner school. (So I've read)

 

I like 720 because it makes the O2 sensors last a bit longer.

The higher the number the richer it gets however reliability drops off.

Yes the Closed Loop Bias (CLB) only works in the areas that have 14.6 listed

 

Hey guys!
Just joined up. Have a 11 XXX trike. 103 ci. Changed a few things and latched onto the sepst. In an effort to not loose sleep, any idea on a cal table? I see a lot for the 103' s but nothin with the XXX tag.
Thanks for the help.

 

There was a post somewhere back in this thread where someone mentioned lowering the idle rpm value and doing a smart tune recording while the bike is idling. Did not see this mentioned in the HD documentation. If anyone can shed some light on this procedure I would appreciate it.

 

I did that. It helps get some of the lower RPM values at idle. Just set it at 800, smartune, reflash, 900, smarttune reflash and then 1000 smart tune reflash. I only let it idle for 3 minutes or so. Since the throttle is not moving, you get enough hits in that short of time.

You can then even shoot for the 1200-1500 values in a parking lot going realy slow, dragging the rear brake some.

When I smart tune I have a game plan to try to hit certain areas of the map as it takes a different approach to hit high low sections.

 

I'm uncertain why you'd want to do that.

You don't ride the bike at less than 1000 rpm (unless you have dropped the tickover) and you don't (I assume) usually ride around a parking lot with the brake on.

So why would it matter whether or not you hit these cells during Smart tune?

 

Do want you want... I know my lower RPM and kPa cells are adjusted. Just in case if the ECM looks back and uses that 750 RPM VE cells when it's idling. I can tell you, the VEs changed from the base map to now.

As for riding around with the brake on, nope, do not do that, but if you want to hit the slow speed tuning sections of the map, you've gotta do something. We are not on a dyno that can apply resistance and help the tuner hit all the various cells.

Heck, only smartune in the cruise range if you want, but that's your call too.

Ride safe and have fun.

 

Umm, I actually hit all the riding I do and some more, not just cruising. What I don't hit are conditions that no one uses.