@ SLOTHY -

The first two rows vertically are where to address this. With 1000 RPM idle you will be pulling about 27-30 kpa @ idle. IIRC correctly.

I have attached my AFR table to show where I adjusted for decel pop. <<----DYNA NOT TOURING
The top two rows and the first two vertical rows.

 

Is that better than richening via the AFR table?

 

Different calibrations and cams will idle at different kpa. I like to see around 35 kpa at idle. To me its always important to do a data log on the street to see where a bike runs in different situations. A lot of times a bike will actually cruise in light load situations at a lower kpa than it idles at. You have to be carefull when going after popping to not be throwing fuel into a column where the bike will operate.

 

Different people do it differently. IMHO because the cells interpolate I prefer the afr table. If I have to use the ve tables, I will at least try a different calibration. I think it boils down to what ever works.

 

I installed the cobra fi2000 powrpro today took the fuel pak off and threw it in the trash where it belongs. The bike runs great now no more back firing and it seems alot peppier. It plugs into the injectors and oxygen sensors just had to unbolt the tank and pull the battery.

2007 stfx
v&h big radius
heavy breather

 

I was hoping it could be done via the AFR since I'm concerned later Smarttuning runs might overwrite VE changes.

 

Yes. The higher RPM ranges of the lower columns are only really seen during decel. It was alot easier to cure decel popping when we tuned throttle position, because zero% throttle position is idle, and if we added fuel at zero TP above 1500 RPM's (which the bike never idles at). If you change your AFR tables and turn the o2 sensors off (open loop) in those areas, when you enable smarttune it will revert those areas back to closed loop for the smarttune run. (since the software has to have o2 feedback to Smarttune it's turns on closed loop).

 

DYNO TUNE + SMART TUNE = BEST OVERALL PERFORMANCE

I recently recorded some agressive test runs on some back roads using my recent dyno tables as a baseline. I think this combination is more realistic for good performance on the road.

The dyno is a great starting point IMO, but does anyone ever ride on a dyno? True, when I ran flat out like in a 1/4 mile, she's flies like a scalded ape but that's not how I ride. With a tweaked file, my bike's throttle response is smoother and most of the undesirable hesitation is gone. Later, I plan to add some values back in from the dyno VE tables and see how that does.

 

Looking for the part # for Screamin Eagle Race Tuner for 2011 Street Glide so i can order from Zanotti and save a few bucks. Thanks in advance

 

I have made adjustments that completely eliminated decel pop. This also made it idle smoother at what seems like higher RPMs.
How do you bring up the idle working table so I can set my idle speed?
Thank you
Billy