Yah I'm just figuring that out, frustrating because the kit I ordered said it's compatible. Maybe I can convince the local dealer to swap cables.

 

So.... I had a stage 1 dealer installed on my new 2021 Sport Glide at the 1,000 mile service, SE 8 bolt air cleaner and SE Street Cannon slip on muffler. They charged me for 5 hours labor and put 20 miles on the dyno tuning it. I hated the way it ran, at moderate acceleration there was a stumble/ bucking at 3,500 rpm in all gears and over 3,600 rpm it felt like it was starving for fuel. I was totally happy with the stock performance before the stage 1, and on my 2020 Low Rider S I did the stage 1 myself with V&H Eliminator slip ons and the canned stage 1 map and was happy with the performance. I mentioned it to one of the dealer service writers and he acted like he'd never heard that before and said "bring it back in and we'll "try" to see if we can tune that out". It's been bugging me for about a month and I haven't had time for the inconvenience of dropping my bike off and finding a ride back and forth to pick it up, so today I said screw it and put the canned stage 1 map in and did a 15 minute smart tune run. The hiccup is gone and I swear my butt dyno says it's running smother and pulling better than with the "custom dyno tune". The told me when they dyno they do WOT runs, and don't do slow acceleration runs because it wouldn't be prudent, really? I don't ride WOT all the time 99% of my riding is moderate/ slightly aggressive acceleration between gear shifts. During hard acceleration the 3,500 rpm stable was not noticeable. Am I crazy for being happy with the canned map and performance for a simple stage 1 versus a "dyno" tuned map? Since the canned map is not an aggressive tune I shouldn't have any concerns about long term reliability right?

 

Did you happen to see which base map they chose? Entirely possible they just installed the wrong base map.
You spend 95-99% of your riding time in less than WOT conditions, so it makes sense that tuning should be the same-You did exactly what they should have done, except you did it on the street. WOT section only takes a few minutes to get right, so if that's all they did, they charged you too much.
Getting part throttle calibrated takes much longer, and is where the majority of tuning time is spent. The advantage if a dyno is the ability to measure/edit almost all throttle positions, simulating road conditions, without worrying about traffic/speed limits/critters/etc.
The SE tuner has limited adjustments, so as long as you use the proper base map, with matching SE components, and have no mechanical issues, you'll have stock like reliability.
SE is limited to +/-4% VE adjustment in closed loop areas (700-2500 RPM, 3% to 30% throttle position), and +/- 3° of spark advance adjustment.
In open loop areas of the map (>2500 RPM, >30% TP) you have +/- 10% VE adjustment and +/- up to to 6 degrees of spark advance adjustment.

 

Hey from Oz figured this was the place to ask.

i have a 103 stage 4 race kit with 4.9 g/s Fuel injectors and my dealer has set the CID to 107 & injector size to 4.22 in the tuning setup. is this a normal thing to do ?

Bike runs hard with 112HP @ 5700 & 112Tq @4000 ( bike has the 30/70 pully swap prior to this it made peak hp @ 6000 and Tq@4300 ) it does blow a little black smoke when you crank the throttle.
Will be taking it back to dealer for another dyno run to look into black smoke.

Thanks
Bodgie

 

It is not uncommon to for the cid and injector size to be different from what they actually are.

 

Black smoke on throttle snap is from the Accelerator Enrichment (AE) table (it acts like an accelerator pump on a carb). Carbon puffing is common when cold, as the extra warm up fuel is combined with the AE fuel, all in addition to the normal VE table fuel. If this still happens when up to operating temp, you can adjust the AE table, to reduce the smoke, but try to do so in small increments- you can lose your snappy throttle response if you go too far.

 

"when I get to the calibration screen where you select year/model/displacement/etc, there is nothing on the VCI tab except for a ton of diamonds with ??? In them)."

I have had that experience with the wrong tuner for the bike, There are several versions of the Super Tuner PRO and the Street Tuner software, different cables for different year bikes. I have used the Super tuner Pro and the Street Tuner, of which the software for each is also version specific.

currently I have a Super Tuner Pro that even with the correct cables and software will not work on my 2021 FLHRX that gives me the diamonds and question marks.

The Street Tuner is black the Super Tuner Pro is orange. The street tuner software will communicatethat an incorrect VCI is installed.
The super Tuner Pro and software connects to the VCI and indicates with the green icon on bottom left is connected to the bike but will not retrieve the info from the Bike, and not push or pull data.
I hope this helps.

 

I don’t know if this has been covered but has anyone had an issue of the widenand O2 sensor hitting the top of the transmission cover? I have a 2020 RGS with the Autotune. Beside scratching the cover. Are there any potential issues of it hitting?

 

Has anyone tuned a 107 BB kit with tman 590 cams with this tuner? If so, what base map was used? I have a very good tuner who works at S&S and has a shop in Whitehall, WI that's tuned dozens of these builds and tunes with any tuner. He's currently putting in an S&S crank in my cases. Trying to get a jump start on it by having the right base map lined up. Kirby is doing the top end.
Used the 103/SE 204 map for my 103/570 stage 2 build and it worked great.
Im wondering if I can get this latest build tuned to it's potential with this tuner or if it's time to retire it and go with the TTS.

 

Do you have the SE Super Tuner, or SE Street Tuner? What cal number are you currently using?