It isn't that complicated. When you use Smart Tune you are only going ot be able to reach a certain amount of cells. This is what I like to call the gap of the table that you will ride in.
I do not seeing myself having a 100 KPA setting at 500 RPM. Do not think it is going to happen. So what you do is tunw and get as many hits as possible by either setting the throttle to 6%, 12%, 25% 50% and 100%. You ride in each gear etc, but don't blow your motor up.
The other way is to just increase in increment of 5 mph and hold for 4 to 8 seconds. Then do some WOT roll on in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. Now go out and ride the super slab in 6th gear from 60 to as fast as you wanna ride safety.
Then do several around town rides and record them as well.
Take all that data. generate new ve tables. Great! Update the table. You will see that after all that riding and recording there are places in the table that are not touched. well you can extend the last value out for those cells if you want.

Now put the original afr map back into the aft table. great. your have smart tuned your bike. Now I took it further. I updated some of the fields to run out of clossed loops. i like 13.2:1 for idle ( helps cool the bike when stopped) I also like it when I am accelerating out of cruising. Helps with pinging and cooling. I have also recorded runs for spark knock with this table, and adjusted appropriately.
I have adjusted the Accel enrichment and decel enleanment.
I have a nice running bike. It is quick on roll on. If I drop a gear at 65 and hit it. I am gone.
If I let off the throttle in 4th gear down a big hill. I do not get pops. Just a rumble.

To each there own. I am going to have the bike sniffed though. I would like know what my true afr is, but I have to assume that with the VE tables being set, and not changing during sessions. that it is pretty close to what I tell them to be. Good luck. Make it as hard as you wish, or as simple as it needs to be. It is your choice.


My plugs are a nice red tan color, and the timing mark is right in the 90* bend of the electrode. I can't complain. She fires right up, and if you let her sit 1st time for about 3 minutes she is ready to go. Then let her sit for about 1 minute each time after that throughout the day. This lets the steps programed to run the sensors complete. If you don't let this happen your idle will be inconsistent, and you may experience decel pop or lagging in acceleration. At least this is what happens to my bike. I have read about better tools, and at one time thought that the SEPST was junk. I have learned to live with its quirks for now, and I have also started running it on Windows 7 instaead of VMWare Fusion on my Mac. This made a huge difference in performance and reliability.

I will let you in on one little secret I have found. It works with my VCI. I can start a recording, and make a run with it. Hit this red button to stop the recording. Without dumping that recording. I can start another then stop. So on and so on. Then when I get ready to dump the files, I have several files. I do not know if this works for every one, but you should try it. Makes for capturing exactyly what you want really easy. Instead of having to make long runs and filter through the mess.

GOOD LUCK!!

 

Was wondering why you chose to stay lean in closed loop?
I was thinking about bumping my whole table up into the 700mv
range,then do the Smart Tune runs.

 

Thanks everyone for jumping in. I looked in the manual on the 0.5% as my data was in the 90-100% range. Here's what i found:

A calibration is considered acceptable for the conditions in which the calibration is
performed when:
VE values repeat themselves within 5%.
or

O2 Integrator values are between 95 & 105%

 

Hi Bennie- been a while... Can you open the map on the VCI by choosing load calibration, click choose file, select the VCI tab, and then see the map file in the folder? Just curious. Also, sometimes I get the same x'ed out icons and error message where I can't load or reflash or do anything. I usually have to exit the software and re-open before it allows me.

 

A few reasons honestly.

One reason is because I am looking for max fuel economy when in cruising. Also I feel that I have enough wind moving over the engine to cool it just fine.

Another reason is because I have tried upping the CLB voltage, and the bike ran like crap. It just did not run very good at all. I would restore the factory map CLB, and it would run smooth.

The other reason is because I wanted to leave enough room for change in atomosphere/altitude/difference in gas quality etc. I do not have a problem with my bike running at or around stoich.

That is just my opinion. I am not a professional tuner. I think that with it running richer at idle and at open loop along with the wind over the fins. The bike should run good, and it does run good. It is just my way. Probably not the only way or the correct way, but I do not have lag when I roll on, I do not have decel pop, and when on the highway get about 49 mpg. In the city I get 42ish, sometimes better, sometimes worse.

I hope that answered you questions. (also the post got caught in italic. I did not set it this way.. )

 

Thanks for the explanation,very helpful.

 

My mistake, putting the decimal in the wrong place.

 

I've never been a fan of using the CLB table to control the mixture. I think the best procedure is to use the CLB table to adjust for the Stoichiometric value of the specific fuel blend, Smart Tune to satisfaction, then adjust mixture with the AFR table.

However I know here are those that are perfectly satisfied with tuning using the CLB tables.

 

Not wanting to compromise reliability with a add on tuner I ordered the whole SEPST package. I know how to tune motors 2-stroke, 4-stroke and Diesels. I know how I want my motor to run and like to be able to tune differant areas to my liking. This tuner may be easer to bring every thing spot on than the hand full of needles and jets it takes for carbs. "You never can seem to find the perfect needle some times."
So I'm subscribed
Billy

 

Did it run poorly right away with the higher clb's or did it take a little time for it to go? Sometimes even though you have proper o2 location and depth an exhaust with low back pressure can cause the AFV's to pull a tune out in the lower rpm's.