so I change the air fuel ratio as u suggested from my last map. I then saved the map as new map with a different number. I then went to go reflash the bike with the new number but it would take, it just kept reflashing the old one.so I then just re saved the changes i wanted under the original number, and reflashed it that way. but why would it reflash the new number map??

 

I got a free power run on a dyno today. Im not sure if Im expecting too much from my bike, but I'm a little disappointed with the numbers. 85.95/92.64. I know that 500rpm deadspot at the start of the torque curve needs to be tuned out. What do you guys think? Any and all ideas welcome. Thanks, Matt.

 

Just a quick update that I have sorted out the excessive heat issue at idle. I did have significant exhaust gasket leaks on both cylinders(tested with bbq lighter around flange and it kept blowing the flame out).
Took my bike to the dealer this morning to get it looked and it seems that the Screamin eagle gaskets they installed on my freedom pipes are not very compatible and leak a lot. They installed the stock OEM gaskets and now there is 100% no leak. Header pipes not glowing now and there is a reduction on the amount of popping on decel.

Foxster, should I start smart tuning off the stock map now, or load the map I have with the AFR table adjustments that you have suggested in post #2719. If I use the one you suggested it should just make it idle a little cooler yeah?

Cheers
Harty

 

Harty,

adding this just to chime in a bit of possibly useful info.

I am using the same map as you on a 2012 fatty and giving credit to Foxster and others on here, my map is now (and for the last about 800 miles) as the attached photo using the same layout you did.

My bike runs really really well,no popping but lots of heavy gurgling. Infact i can't fault it.

Still may tinker more but only because i find it fun.

Cheers.

 

Cheers for the reply KingPig. I loaded the stock stage 1 map back in and did a few smart tune runs and was running well with still some popping but ok. Then I flashed bike yesterday arvo with the suggested AFR map similar to yours, and it is now as you say, just gurgling and not popping on decel. Sounds spot on. I am just going to do a few smart tune runs on this map now to settle the VE tables, then the cables can be put away and start to rack some km's up on the bike.

Very appreciative for the help I have received, and to tell you the truth I have actually enjoyed learning to use the software. It really is pretty straight forward once you use it a little.

 

OK guys, been wrenchin on HD's for years. Even a little carb work. Now trying to get up on EFI tuning. On my 2014 StreetGlide, just installed V&H PD's with Monster Rounds and a heavy breather. Dealer used a Super Tuner Pro (32109-08C) and dyno, giving me about a 25% increase in HP and torque (so they tell me). Now I'd like to learn how to use the tuner myself. What cables do I need; 4 pin or six pin diagnostic connector cable? Where on the bike is the diagnostic data test connector I plug into? Any step by step go-bys on the thread I can look at?

Thanks

 

For a 2014 streetglide according to the Harley website you will need the 6 pin connector PN 41000018. I would presume the plug is in the same spot as on my Breakout. Remove the seat and there will be a 6 pin connector under there with a rubber bung in the end protecting the pins. Remove the bung and insert the tuner cable.
The best and easiest step by step I followed was here :

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/exhau...r-dummies.html

I only started to play with this about 2 weeks ago and it is very straight forward, just follow the step by step instructions exactly.

 

The diagnostic port is under the left side cover on baggers.

 

if the SEPST software will run on a 64 bit Win 7 platform? The SE performance catalog just says WIN 7 compatible.

 

runs perfectly fine on mine.. notebook and desktop win7 64 bit and win8.1 64 bit