If you do experiment, do so no more than 2* at a time, short runs. IMO
If you leave it advanced then recheck on a hotter day. Play safe.

 

I agree with jty on the timing.. if you're not pinging or knocking, leave it be. if your ion sensing isn't working I promise you'd know it/see it

One thing I'd like to point out about the VEs. you are not going to get them perfectly smooth, I don't care how hard you try unless you manually finesse the tables yourself. AND if you do that, you'll only be hurting yourself in the long run. Get your VEs to where they're changing at less than 5% then move on..

fortunately us TTS folks have the EGR we can deal with to smooth out only the peaks and valleys a little and that also winds up helping with mileage as well if done correctly.

 

Ultra, the next time you do data log or from your files compare the VE recommended with the VE table after EGR applied. SEPST does not have the built in smoothing, agreed. That is why a manual application done with care will accomplish the same thing. That is to get rid of sudden high/low readings between surrounding cells.
As I posted earlier I picked up the My Tune software which does appear to correct these peaks/valleys using the same data log as the SEPST.

 

I've done the same with MyTune. Great little program.. What I'm doing is gathering data on vtune runs and comparing my changes via TTS vs the changes that MyTune suggests seems to be pretty much on the money from what I've seen so far. Still playing with that when time permits..

 

Lots of tech info here which is a mixed blessing.

Left with a question as I only want to put an AC and slip-ons onto my 14 heritage. I know a TTS or PV-2 or SE race tuner give many more options but appear confusing to use and can void portions of your warranty which they directly effect (I.e the ECM)


Per HD website the STREET tuner allows downloads the DIY person can use which are EPA compliant also has the smart tune feature. What I have read over and over is that only the dealership can use the street tuner on your bike. Please clarify

Reason I ask is I want to retain the warranty AND if something goes wrong with the ECU not have to repurchase another tuner

 

rbeamj, theres a few very experienced tuners on here that Im sure can give you an answer, sorry but im not 1 of them! I have yet another question of my own. Some might remember a little while ago I had to increase my ci in the tuning constants when my rear VE table got close to maxxing out. Now Ive done 2 smart tune runs with VEs changing up to 10%. Im now changing my air filter (again) because the cops don't like the big spike sticking out the front. I will be using the wimmer plate, breathers and elbow setup and try to find a K&N pod type filter to fit (flat at front instead of spike). Basically what I want to know is do I need to reflash the canned map and start again from the very beginning (CI back to 95", reset clb etc. etc.). Or can I just continue on from where I am?? I would think that even though its a different AC it will be fairly close in terms of flow rate. Sorry to drag it out, Thanks in advance, Matt.

 

then buy a HD tuner and have the dealer do it. Then no warranty issues because THEY did it.

 

continue on from where you're at. Your VEs will change a little more but that's to be expected.

cops over there are a little over the top!

 

Originally Posted by rbeamj
Lots of tech info here which is a mixed blessing.

Left with a question as I only want to put an AC and slip-ons onto my 14 heritage. I know a TTS or PV-2 or SE race tuner give many more options but appear confusing to use and can void portions of your warranty which they directly effect (I.e the ECM)


Per HD website the STREET tuner allows downloads the DIY person can use which are EPA compliant also has the smart tune feature. What I have read over and over is that only the dealership can use the street tuner on your bike. Please clarify

Reason I ask is I want to retain the warranty AND if something goes wrong with the ECU not have to repurchase another tuner"
_____________________

rbeamj

Suggest you avoid the Street Tuner at all costs. I can tell you that because I already made that mistake. The ONLY thing you can adjust with the Street Tuner are your VEs. And yes, this will help your bike "adjust" to changes in air flow due to changes in A/C and/or exhaust, but you cannot actually change the tune of the bike. Other parameters like AFRs, timing, etc. are not accessible, so you will always be running in a lean (and hot) state.

If you do not want to spend the time needed to learn about the Pro tuner (or other non-Harley brands), and are OK running lean and hot, suggest you just install the A/C OR slip-ons (not both at the same time). Then ride the bike for a few days and let the Air-Fuel adjust. The adaptive fuel function in your bike will compensate for mild changes in air flow on its own. But if you change both the A/C and the mufflers at the same time, depending on what type of mufflers you install, the air flow changes may exceed the relatively narrow range of the O2 sensors you have, and the bike may not be able to self correct. If you do one at a time and let the bike adjust in between, chances are all will be fine.

Interesting that I tried to post a negative review of the Street Tuner on the HD website, but they would not accept it even though it complied with their posting requirements (e.g., no profanity; no mention of non-HD products; etc.).

Mike

 

Mike, post the address for HD website.

The Street tuner is one step further on the dealer download. over the years it became apparent that flashing the same map into the same models did not provide the same results. The street tuner allows tweaking the dealer previous flash by adjusting for the actual airflow differences between the same setups. you end up with an EPA stage 1 tune.