hope this works

 

Made 3 recording runs today.

My starting fuel ratio table looked similar to paud's and its now all red/14.6 with the exception of the 20 MAP row from 2500 rpm up to 6000 rpm.Does that sound like I am tuning correctly?I'm not sure at this point.

I also forgot to disable "knock retard"during my runs.Will this
effect my tune?

One more question,do I need to change the type of gas I am using to 10% ethanol,if so,where do I make this change?

 

It depends on your runs...throttle position, rpm's, load.
As I understand it, at 14.6, its closed loop, meaning your O2 sensors are working. The sensors measure O in the exhaust and adjust accordingly, so no extra adjustment needed for 10% E.

 

It sounds like you are looking at the smart tune calibration. You should not be casual riding with this calibration. If you did the Smart Tune and then downloaded the file from the VCI then that is what you are seeing. It is only for collecting data for Smart Tuning.

The process is to set the bike into smart tune mode. Ride and collect data. Download the the collected data, and open the desired calibration from the computer. Open VE tables, drag Smart tune to the open window. If a data table is there, close it first. Add the recorded data, click calculate. This will analyze the data and show suggested changes to the VE tables. Click update.

Save the calibration and then upload it to the bike.

Changeing the CLB will adjust for the fuel mixture, but I'm not sure if 10% ethanol is that big a difference.

"knock retard" won't significantly hurt the tune.

 

I am certain that I followed the smart tun procedure correctly.
I did all the steps like the manual states and each run updated
2 dozen or more places on each front and rear working
ve table.

Before I started the smart tune I looked at the working
air-fuel ratio table and it showed a large block of 14.6 closed loop area.After I did my smart tune downloads/updates,the
the same table,working air-fuel ratio,had added lots more 14.6
areas.I was just using this table to see what changes I could notice after doing the smart tune,if that makes since.

Anyways I have reflashed my base map to the ecm at this point.I still feel I don't have enough information to do the smart tune correctly.What proof will I have that the my tune
will be better than the base map?

 

Once your bike is calibrated, (you are done smarttuning) you change the AFR's tables to what you want. I would turn off the closed loop (14.6) cells from 3500 RPM's and above. I would lower them to 14.2. I would also put the 100 column to 13, the 95 column to 13, the 90 to 13.2 the 80 to 13.6. The 20 column could be lowered as well, your bike idles at around 30 kpa, so the only time it gets into the 20's would be on deceleration, riching it up a little there will help with any decel pop.

 

Properly done, Smart Tune will recalibrate your VE tables, but not change your AFR table.

You put the bike in Smart Tune mode for data collecting. When this is done you open the working map in the software, loading the calibration from the PC and not the VCI. Use the data collected to Smart Tune your VE tables. Save the changes and flash this to the ECM. Repeat the process.

You can still use the data collected from the Smart Tune run to modify the ve tables in your base map.

 

Just finished rereading the smart tune procedure and saw
several places where I might have messed up.I have the
base map back in the ecm now and will give it another try
over the weekend.

The bike is due for the 1000 mile service,may wait till after that.

 

I went for a short ride with the base map and it was clear that the dealer had a better map because the engine was popping
on decel alot more and the ride was not as smooth,so I am
back to smart tuning.I did one ride Thursday like the
manual recommended,holding my speed at 5 mph increments
for 5 to 10 seconds.
I didn't get a chance to do another ride after reflashing the
base map,but did start the engine and the idle is noticably
smoother.
Question,does anyone know how to check your calibration progress using either of these suggestions on page 22 of the manual? Thanks for everyones help so far,I'll get this right eventually.

 

I've been reading this thread, notice a lot of people say that the street tuner can ONLY be used by the dealer to install canned maps. However, the description of the cables part number 32184-08A, states "Cable kit provides all necessary connections between motorcycle, VCI, and computer, and permits downloading calibrations with the Street Tuner and Super Tuner software.". So, does anyone actually have the street tuner, with cables and software setup? I'm interested since I have cables and software from the super tuner.