I think there is some confusion over the "Street Performance Tuner" vs the "Super Tuner"
I also see that the latest SE Online Catalogue only offers a Street Performance Tuner.

 

I stand corrected, SE still offers both tuners with the Super Tuner offfering more functionality. That said the Pro Street Tuner does include a Smart Tune feature and indicates that you can modify the VE tables.

 

Is it OK to leave the tuner connected to the ECM and just connect and disconnect from the computer? It's a pain to remove the saddlebags every time I want to ref lash.

 

That's fine. That's how you would have it connected for smart tune data collection

 

I need a little help please; I have a 09 SERG, 110ci with se-251 cams, SE adj pushrods, stock open element type A/C, V&H Power Dual header BUB 7, mufflers, and the SEPRT.
I am the second owner of this bike so I did not add this tuner. The original owner added the tuner and did the modifications to the map.
I do not have problems with the power that it puts out, (96 ponies and 103 tq). I do have an issue with heat and the pinging that goes along with it especially in the 1900 - 2500 rpm rang, which is where I do most of my cruising.
This pinging occurs a lot, even more so when riding 2 up, more weight, but mostly under load, as climbing inclines, I live in Tenn near the mountains and we do a lot of riding through them, over 300 miles yesterday.
I am looking for more of the comfort and health of my motor verses the power as I do a lot of long rides and trips. Gas mileage would be a plus of coarse. Currently the bike has 57700 miles on her, she gets around 40 mpg or more on the back roads and right at 37 on the interstate.
I do have the software, cables, and a laptop, and have been studying the program, trying to understand it so that when I do make some changes, I won't screw anything up.
I have updated the software to the latest version, twice actually.
Now my question is, which base map do I start with or shall I use the map that is in it?
I know to pick the closest to what configuration I have, so here is what I am looking at.
The map that was in the bike when I got it is 205UJ003, which I could not find on the list.
The 3 that I am looking are as follows;
009SBI001, this one does have the correct cams but the wrong compression.
009CAH002, this is for 2010 - 2013 Touring, don't know what the difference would be.
205UJ004, which is the standard map with 255 cams.
Please lead me in the right direction. I have had the bike for a few years as well as the program but just have not taken the time to learn it as work has been so busy. Now that we have slowed down and I have more time, I would like to get this scoot tuned properly or as close as I can without the expense of a professional.
Thank you, Mike

 

If you are happy with the way the bike runs (other than the pinging) I would stick with the MAP that is in it now. Go into your ignition tables and retard (lower) the values in the RPM ranges where you are having your pinging, so in the 1750 -2500 RPM and from 50% and up try lowering them by 4 or 5 to see if it makes it better.

 

I'll give it a try, thx.

 

listen to Harleytuner.

all I would like to know is did you really have this ride for a few years, pinging, and now are looking for a solution. I cannot imagine having pinging for that long and not doing anything about it.
OR did something change recently and then it started.

 

Welderman

The first place I would start is removing the spark plugs and have a look at the tops of the pistons, I use a long narrow led light. You want to make sure that you do not have large carbon deposits that are causing the detonation. Sounds like you have been running hot for a while and high cylinder temps you will get more oil past the rings. From there, set up your laptop to record using the cal closest to your build and check smart tune. This will revert back to the 14.6 AFR settings and allow the system to maximize feedback from the o2 sensors.
Repeat this a few times and then run smart tune and look at your new VE tables and see what the settings are. Also go back and look at your data runs and compare VE new and current and see which way they are going. My 2008 ultra 103 with 255 cams and the race tuner was dynontuned at my local stealer and it came in at 84 hp and 101 lb ft and it was a ping monster when I got it back. I started all over and after many data runs it is pretty close to perfect.

 

I finally did a re-flash yesterday with a smart tune and a couple of runs. After the flash, I purposely tried to get the bike to ping on an incline running about 1900 rpms in 4th gear so I could see the amount of retard, it worked on one instant, no other time. The recording showed a much as 2.50 front cylinder retard. I made some changes with smart tune along with some other minor changes and will re-flash again today. The bike does seem to run smoother and so far starts easier. I am learning as I go. I was unsure to do a re-flash in the past, so I put up with the heat and more then occasional pinging. BTW, my engine temp was hovering @239 during most of the runs. So far I am happy with what I have done and does not seem to be lacking on power.
I know there is a lot to learn so I will be taking my time as I go.
Thank you for all of your input.