I understand all that. I am trying to find what data would reveal what gave me the codes for too much fuel. I can not depend on VE new front and rear when not in closed loop.

 

for the tuning guru's, my AFR from my current tune is 14.2 at 2000-2200 I get a slight ping if I bumped the AFR to 14.0 or 13.8 and reflashed should this clear the ping up ? it doesn't matter what gear im in or temp. I always get that slight ping for a second. road last summer with it and it bugged me so I bought the software and cables and now im going to dive in. I think the bike should make more power than it does for a SE stg2 103 w/255 cams, decatted, 4" SE mufflers, SE ventilator, SEPST and boysen X power ring.

 

Hi there.

I've been reading for quit a while now and would like to ask some of my questions to be sure.

So HD flashed my 2012 FLSTC with the 357SDQ001 map and did a short smarttune run.
The map looks right. But this map has no clb and the AFR numbers stay bold down to 14.1
Now do the 2012 103cui FLSTC's have wideband O2 sensors and does a bold 14.1 really mean 14.1 AFR in closed loop?

My V&H Slip Ons have 1.5'' Standard Baffles and the HD Air Filter they've installed is the paper one.
The 2.5'' V&H Competition Baffles seam a bit too large regarding backpressure but my 1.5'' aint loud and deep enough.
What Baffle size would be still good for low/mid range rpm torque (lets say 1500 to 3500 rpm)
and what would be the best AFR at that range then?

Without smarttuning (just data recording) I can see some knock retard of 2,25 degrees at higher rpms (4000 and up).
How serious is that?

Thanks a lot for any information and suggestions.
Mike

 

They have changed the way CLB is handled with the latest version of the software with the latest maps. Its still there but hidden within the ability to enter AFRs in closed loop in the AFR table. If its bold then its closed loop. If you enter the minimum AFR value that is still bold then the max CLB is applied.

The automatic knock retard system is really for transient blips, not for coping with poor tuning. If you are getting it kick in a lot then its robbing you of power and you need to adjust the timing. Try taking a couple of degrees of advance out at the RPMs where you have the knocking.

 

Thanks Foxster
The new software only seams to record 20 some minutes and I've only got like 2 retards in that range and only after fast throttle movements.

Mike

 

Sounds like its not a problem then. In an hour's run I usually have a couple of events.

Surprised you only get 20 minutes of recording. After an hour I'm usually bored and give up and its still not full.

 

yep, 1531320ms ~ 25 minutes. Took me 3 runs to figure that out. Guess I'm not the smartest one after all

but I was really focused on 60 minutes, so…

Any ideas on a good baffle size? They've got some really good craftsmen down here that will build them for a nickel or a dime.

Thanks
Mike

 

Since I added ACR's to my '09 103 RKC it cranks a lot to get started when it's warm. Do I add more fuel or subtract some in my SEPST cranking fuel table?

 

Just had my 255 cams installed vance and hines exhaust and Screaming eagle hi flow air filter.
They installed tuner and dynoed.
Bike runs good and is getting good mileage.
Except right off idle.
There is a flat spot or fade then it screams.
Any ideas

 

The 255's have an inherent TQ dip around 2300 to 2800 RPM's. The more open the exhaust, the more obvious the dip.

It can be tuned to be better but not tuned out. You do this with fuel adjustments and timing. Since each bike is different there isn't a standard answer as to how much fuel and timing to add or subtract.